I fill up my 2006 Yamaha Vstar 1100 today and to my suprise my iphone calculator showed 53.855 mpg. The best I have ever gotten before hypermiling was about 49 mpg. That improvement was made by just accelerating slowly and using the no brakes theory as well as keepoing my highway speed under 60 mph. On a side note, I installed by ScanGauge2 in my 2007 Titan this morning. I had to make adjustments to the speedo as it was slow by 2 mph according to my GPS. I was only down a 1/4 tank but filled it up and hit the fill up button. I have been filling up at a 1/2 tank lately; should I run the tank down to 1/4 before refuling to check for any descrpencies. My mileage improved in the Titan also. 18.5 to 18.8. I getting there. Thanks for listening.
Good job! Running the tank down low before refueling will reduce the error in MPG calculations. As far as increasing FE by reducing speed, I know on my Dakota that running down the I at 60-65MPH will take half the gas of running at 75 MPH. Yes, it is THAT pronounced a difference. Running at 55 takes the same MPG but more time. Again, Congratulations on increasing your FE.
I am currently getting 47 mpg on my DL1000. This is with a smaller rear sprocket. Last chain replacement they sold me the wrong size and I figured I would just run it. With the original size I got 50mpg. Next chain change I am going to go bigger than stock and see what that gets me. I don't drive with mileage in mind, typically fast starts and too fast speed. I could probably get this thing up close to 60mpg if I really tried.
Best mileage I got on any motorcycle was a Honda VT500 Ascot. I got 70 MPG (U.S.) one tank while mostly tooling around in upper new York state. I wasn't doing anything special, just mostly going 50 - 55 MPH on very rural roads. That same motorcycle would also yield a dismal 24 MPG when traveling really fast on the freeway. At similar freeway speeds my Concours would be a very consistent 40 MPG.
I also have a DL1000. My fuel economy improved once I put some miles on the bike. My mileage on the bike varies with speed. At 80 mph 44-45 mpg, 75 mph 47-48mpg, 70mph 50-51 mpg, 65 mph 54-55mpg. My normal day to day riding without much attention to speed gets me about 52 mpg. That is almost all highway miles. My best mileage has been 57.344228804903 mpg My worst mileage: 44.416144200627 mpg Lifetime average: 50.9636341630256 mpg I would really like to see the numbers from a DL650 for the same type of riding. I would think it would be possible to break into mid 60's using hypermiling techniques. I have been watching HDT for the release of the diesel bike they are working on. They report a claimed 100+ mpg. Unfortunately it is looking more like this bike will never see light of day. The forum for that bike reports the president of the company saying something like 50 bikes have shipped so far of the bikes promised to the government. Things are sounding rather fishy so my hopes for this bike are slowly slipping away and it is doubtful that the commercial version will ever ship. Guy
A diesel motorcycle would be cool. Imagine the torque. Running on Bio would be a great clean efficient commuter.
"to my suprise my iphone calculator showed " i calculate with my iphone too but look forward to getting a scangauge. k
In dead stock form my 1980 SR500 would get about 60 mpg in city riding(with some city interstate mixed in).Currently-hopped up and geared down -it will get about 40 mpg. My 1983 VT500 Ascot-same as 2tonjellybean-will get about 45mpg or so in all city riding. If these bikes had EFI and electronic controls and were set up to get good mpg they could probably get 70+mpg.The old carbs were real gasoline wasters. The is/was a diesel motorcycle made in India.It was about 15 hp. Charlie
Has anyone here ever attempted to adapt a modern EFI to one of the older carburetor bikes?I would bet that any of the midsized(engine size and 1-2 cylinders) bikes would be capable of 70+mpg. During the gasoline crunch of 79,80,81 we would gear the bike up- either a smaller rear sprocket,bigger countershaft sprocket(cheaper to go with the countershaft sprocket), drop the MJ a little and raise the needle a bit,change the jet needle etc. The gearing changes gave better mpg; the jetting changes weren't too successful. The bikes didn't run well. Adding weight to the external flywheel/alternator/stator could also help.It should allow you to gear it taller without lugging. Some of the modern sportbikes might respond to gearing changes,and you might be able to piggyback on one of the performance modules and instruct it to jet leaner for economy.They are usually used to increase hp, but they might have a fuel economy mode. Charlie
Hey,thanks. It might be tough to install a megasquirt on my SR500. I'm not sure how I would get a cam position sensor hooked up.I could certainly plumb in O2 sensors,and mass air sensor.Maybe it could just work off ignition timing? Thanks, Charlie PS The FI from a SV650 or something of that type might work ok for either the 1 or 2 cyl bike.
My 1980 Suzuki 450 would average 66MPG with careful driving. I regeared it at chain changing time, upping the gearing 15% & raised my mileage to ~74MPG average. Sometimes it would give me 77MPG on the right level road.
I plan on going to a higher gear as well. Last chain change they sold me the wrong sprocket(and I didn't check) and I am now lower geared than stock. My bike has more than enough power to go much higher.
Hi thetonka....If you change gearing remember: if you raise top gear 15%, your first gear will also be 15% higher. You'll have to forget about fast starts. But once moving, your acceleration will be fine. Such high gearing will lower vibration a lot. You'll have to decide if that is good or bad. Me...I loved a nice smooth ride as I traveled 245 miles with my 3.7 gallon tank.
I can start in second now without much clutch slip. If I get into in 1st of 2nd I usually end up single wheelin' it. Should be a problem. I think the DL1000 is rated at 98hp and something like 74 lb-ft of torque. Its got some go to it. I am sure I will need to down shift going up some big hills to avoid lugging it, but on the downhills and flats its should be real nice.
Hi TheTonka: ___The SMART Fortwo weighs ~ 1,800 lbs and with 350 #’s of bodies in it, the smallish 1.0L Mitsubishi rated at just 70 HP and 68 ft.-lb’s of torque moved it around quite nicely. I was never anywhere near the WOT throttle ratings so I am sure your bike will move you along just fine at whatever ratio you want to install! ___Good Luck ___Wayne
Yeah, its a BIT overpowered. I have been looking at programming options, but most everything out there is focused on performance. Gotta focus on programming the nut in the saddle.
Just shy of two years ago I purchased a new Sportster to ride back and forth to work as I commute 46 miles a day round trip. Living in NW Florida I can ride all year. One of the reasons I chose a Sportster was that it runs on regular fuel. That saves $.20 a gallon. In 2007 they went to fuel injected and now run premium. It is also a bike that can tour if needed. So far I have not added any windshield or fairing to help with the fuel mileage. I do mostly hi way to and from work. If I run 60-65 I get 55 mpg. If I keep it 55-60 I get 60 mpg.