Mazda3 CELs and P/S Loss after Glide/FAS

Discussion in 'Mazda' started by johnf514, Jul 25, 2007.

  1. johnf514

    johnf514 Zoom? Try Glide!

    A quick question mainly aimed at the Mazda3 drivers - please, anyone feel free to respond though: when keying-off to IGN-II for a glide/FAS, are you experienced any loss of power-steering when bump-starting? Also, after 3-5 FAS's, are you experiencing any CEL's?

    I will usually lose the electric power steering motor if I bump start for 2-3 minutes - it will return after that. After 3-5 FAS's (over a 20-30 minute period) I'll usually throw a check engine light that goes away after 5-20 minutes. After doing some reading, I am pretty sure both problems are just electrical resets (as the CEL can be thrown by an electrical fault) but I just wanted to get ya'lls opinion.

    Thanks all! :D

    Anyone else experiencing this in their non-hybrid vehicle?
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2007
  2. johnf514

    johnf514 Zoom? Try Glide!

    Shameless bump. ;)
  3. xcel

    xcel PZEV, there's nothing like it :) Staff Member

    Hi John:

    ___I have not experienced a CEL pointing toward a PS issue in any other vehicle during a FAS but I have seen a CEL pop on fuel level sending unit/transmitter in a Chevrolet Colorado after a few FAS’. I have also seen Psyshack (Jeff) post abut his Mazda3’s EPS having a fit after a FAS but do not have enough details to provide anything of use to anyone yet.

    ___Good Luck

  4. johnf514

    johnf514 Zoom? Try Glide!

    Thanks Wayne - that Colorado comment got me thinking. I'll probably stop by an Autozone on my way home and have them pull in the codes. See what these CEL's are all about.

    Jeff is having the same issues I've had with FAS and loss of EPS. Seems to come back after a moment or two.

    Anyone else? :)
  5. aca2983

    aca2983 Well-Known Member

    I tried this maneuver once and it was just too scary so I never did it again. The power steering light came on, and even though the car restarted, it took several seconds for the steering to come back. No CEL for me.
  6. johnf514

    johnf514 Zoom? Try Glide!

    Found the code for the CEL - P0069 - MAP-Barometric Press Correlation. Any thoughts?
  7. psyshack

    psyshack He who posts articles

    The power steering issue looks like its by design. When I get down to or under 20 mph with the engine running the PS will turn back on. I can also key start or bump start and the PS will come back at 20 mph or under. But under no circumstance has it came back on above 20 mph.

    John the car is new so I would get it into the dealer and let them look at the code. It shouldn't be throwing it. Mine doesn't throw any cel's. I don't count the PS issue as a cel.

    Im thinking yours might be over sensitive to the air pressure changes happening in the intake tract. While it rears it head now due to some hypermiling tactics. It will more than likely fail down the road. MAP is more than likely referring to manifold atmospheric pressure. The map changes very fast when one goes from a fas to running again. Much like if a person goes from idle to wot to idle again. MAP goes wild when this happens. Then throw in the system reboot and something gets lost. I would imagine the problem is either in the MAF or IAT sensors. And there could be issue with the intake manifold. I believe our intake header if you will is a two stage affair. And it tunes its self according to info fed back to it from the ECU. Mazda uses a Trombone slide as a example of the effect. I need to study up on this system more to understand what its doing and how. I understand the why. Just not the how.

    At any rate. The code is referring to something getting confused in the intake tract concerning pressure...

  8. johnf514

    johnf514 Zoom? Try Glide!

    psyshack - when you key off for a glide/stop, do you key back to ACC or to "lock"?

    Note - the steering wheel does not lock until you actually remove the key.

    I've tried keying off all the way to lock and haven't thrown a CEL yet - I wondered if it (somehow) had something to do with leaving my accessories running. (?)
  9. psyshack

    psyshack He who posts articles

    I only key off to acc. Then roll back to on.
  10. tbaleno

    tbaleno Well-Known Member

    I trust you know what you are doing. But putting the key in the lock position would make me very nervous. Make sure you do lots of testing to confirm this in a parking lot. Make sure you take tight corners and stuff and do lots of maneuvers to confirm this.

    Anyone else reading this should note that not all vehicles operate that way and most will actualy lock the stearing wheel when the key is turned to lock and you try stearing.
  11. johnf514

    johnf514 Zoom? Try Glide!

    Thank you tbaleno for reiterating this issue.

    Only in my 2007 Mazda3 do I have the ability to turn the wheel with the key in the lock position. The key must be turn back from On for this to work, and it must not be removed, or else the steering wheel will lock. I have confirmed this both through driving (slow speed in a carpark) and by statements made in the owners' manual.

    Please do not attempt to do this on an opened road unless you know 100% that it the steering wheel will not lock. All cars will operate in a safe manner in the On position - use this position until you have safely experimented otherwise.
  12. johnf514

    johnf514 Zoom? Try Glide!

    Just a quick update - have tried keying off/gliding several more times (keying off to "Lock") and have had no CELs. Looks like that was the problem! :)
  13. xcel

    xcel PZEV, there's nothing like it :) Staff Member

    Hi John:

    ___Great detective work and I hope it is confirmed by the others. FAS’ing is a must nowadays and with the EPA CEL issue behind the Mazda3 owners, only a little more caution with the IG is in order for the fantastic tanks I know you guys will be achieving now.

    ___Good Luck

  14. igor2

    igor2 Active Member

    OK hi- I am new :D

    anyways - I discovered this site on Friday and started immediately trying what I can do ..

    the mileage I have in my log is without any techniques - just regular driving. However I tried to force auto stop coming up on a slower hwy traffic and experienced the loss of EPS - it came on once I came to a full stop and needed to make an actual sharp turn (in an exit) .. all of sudden it just worked.

    a couple times, I have done FAS coming up to a red light, but the only way I have figured out to re-start the egnine is using the starter .. what is this bump-restart you all talk about?

    finally, besides the overinflated tires, driving well (coasting, leaving enough space, accelerating slowly, not holding speed, but RPM (or TP) uphill etc ... what can I do .. what has worked for you?


    2004 mazda3 s Sedan stick - 55k miles, but engine only has 5k miles.


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