Newbie.04 hyundai elantra

python8 · #1 10-08-2007, 12:26 PM

Hello,

I'm new to the site and would love some suggestions for helping my FE in my 60k '04 hyundai elantra. I have a 50 mile commute to work all highway besides a couple stop signs. I have already changed to oil to 5w 30 Valvoline durablend synthetic (lowest weight recommended in owners manual), inflated tire press. to 40psi, and installed a new air filter. I am about to replace spark plugs per recommendation in owners manual and am still working on a mpg figure, but I think I'm a little over 41 mpg. Per the trip computer in the car it says 42.8 mpg. Can someone lead me in the direction of a new technique I can start practicing? I have already read this post but not sure I understand which techniques I can use with my vehicle. Thanks in advance for you help.

Alan

Right Lane Cruiser · #2 10-08-2007, 01:13 PM

Welcome, Alan!!! It is good to see another Elantra driver on the forums here! What transmission does your car have?

It seems you are already off to a very good start!!

diamondlarry · #3 10-08-2007, 03:13 PM

Welcome to CleanMPG Alan! One thing you can do to help your mpg is to read as many of Seans 1000+(

)posts since he is our resident Hyundai Elantra expert.

python8 · #4 10-08-2007, 11:49 PM

Hello,

Good question. I have a automatic transmission. I didn't think about putting that in the post....

Thanks again.....

Right Lane Cruiser · #5 10-09-2007, 07:33 AM

Alan, what is the highway speed limit and terrain? Is it mostly flat? What speed do you usually drive on the highway?

In general you should start with the DWL (Drive With Load) and DWB (Drive Without Brakes -- or as I often think of it, Drive With Buffers) techniques. Those two are a solid basis for other techniques and should be mastered first.

Are both of those techniques making sense to you at this point?

python8 · #6 10-09-2007, 05:03 PM

The highway speed limit is 65-70 almost the whole way. Terrain is mostly flat but there are some hills just not many very steep hills.

Those techniques are making sense to me but I'm not quite sure if I understand how steep the hill needs to be to use DWL. Also if I'm doing 55 and hit a hill how far should I let my speed drop only a few miles per hour or just lock the accelerator and let it drop as far as it drops 5-10 mph?

Right Lane Cruiser · #7 10-09-2007, 05:24 PM

That sounds like workable terrain, Alan -- though the speed limit is a bit high. What speed do you normally drive on that road? What is the speed of the average driver on it? Speed limit or higher?

To answer your question about DWL, you should use it on ANY hill. There are limits of course -- you must be mindful of traffic. If it isn't safe, don't do it. In general, though, the simplest method of achieving DWL is to use the "lock the accelerator" technique. That will give the basic effect. Essentially you are only allowing the engine the fuel you want to let it have -- not allowing the terrain to dictate it because you insist on the same speed.

How much you let the speed drop is going to be dependent upon the traffic at the time you are using this technique. If you are the only one driving up the hill, let it drop as far as it will -- as long as you can still get over the hill.

If there is traffic to be concerned about, pick a lower limit for your speed and don't go below that. One way to do this is to set the cruise control at that lower limit, then just drive above that limit. If the speed gets down to that lower level the cruise control will kick in and refuse to let it drop further. I don't use this method (I've actually only used the cruise control once since last April -- and that was to see if low speed, high gear, 70+mpg readings could be maintained with it), but it may be useful to you as you learn this stuff?

I hope that was clear enough -- keep the questions coming!

skduffy · #8 10-09-2007, 06:36 PM

One thing that I will add to this as I have an automatic Elantra. DWL can be on the frustrating side. This transaxle with its fuzzy logic tends to want to unlock the torque converter or worse yet it will downshift to 3. The logic that it has when it hits an incline is that it will downshift and then maintain that gear. It takes frequent gas pedal lift to get it to again upshift. Of course, by then you have probably lost enough momentum to warrant 3rd. Nothing against fuel efficiency as 55-60 mph at 3,500+ RPM.

python8 · #9 10-10-2007, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Right Lane Cruiser

I hope that was clear enough -- keep the questions coming!

Actually, I do have another question. In my car there is a trip computer which counts mpg. If I were to eventually purchase the scangauge II would that tell me anything different or would it be the exact same FE reading? Also would there be any other benifits. I read about it but not sure if it is really worth it.

Alan

Right Lane Cruiser · #10 10-10-2007, 10:47 PM

Alan, the SG can do a lot more than your built in gauge -- and it has the potential to be more accurate as well. It tracks not only trip mileage, but also instantaneous, tank, day, and previous day mileages. It also allows you to monitor things like manifold pressure, air intake temperature, coolant temperature, throttle pedal position, engine load, rpm, mph, battery voltage, loop status, min and max speeds, etc. It can even let you view engine codes when you get a check engine light and will allow you to clear the codes as well. I'm sure there are also other functions I'm simply not remembering at the moment, too.

I'd say it is worth every penny!