Hey, I'm New.

[SteveBraun]

So first, before getting into too many questions, I'll say that I'm currently driving :

1996 Dodge Avenger. 2.0L engine 4cylinder Manual (M5)

I've always been a very smart driver and usually sit 5-10 mpg above what the 'expected' mileage of the vehicle. Im on my first tank of gas where i'm actively trying to hypermile. so in a few weeks when I have to fill up we'll see how it went.

I have no intentions on moving to a hybrid type vehicle, if anything my challenge is to see exactly how far i can push the FE on the avenger.

Question 1 - ScanGauge, is this an option for to instal on my car, i know it became standard for mid 90's cars to be able to take that mod, however no clue if mine would be compatible. that said, where would you read up on how to install this mod?

Question 2 - Coasting, being in an manual I tend to clutch in or put it into neutral when up on hills or if traffic is slowing ahead of me, let the car coast and slow down on its own rather than engage the breaks, and make major acceleration/decelerations. Question is at what point does doing this either cause transmission damage (which i doubt it does since i've done this for 10 years of driving on multiple vehicles and never had transmission problems) but also what point does the fuel saved from coasting and having the engine idle while doing so get offset by the extra gas needed to bring the flywheel back up from 900 rpm to 2000+

Question 3 - Flywheel, while we're on the topic, i've seen arguments go both ways with regards to changing to a lighter flywheel and whether it improves or reduces FE. anybody who actually knows whats going on able to comment. I know at a constant speed, and with a hilly area it tends to reduce your FE (as a result of lower engine momentum due to lower spinning weight), while start and stop environments tends to see a slight improvement.. is that pretty much accurate?

Question 4 - Tire Pressure, now by no means do I want to cause safety issues or accidents so this is an important question before i max my tire pressure or FE. on the side of my tires is a 'max psi' rating of 45 psi, which is right where i keep the pressure. Is that the max psi i can keep the pressure or is there actually some 'give' in there to overinflate while still remaining within the safety margins.

...

TIP! one of the first things i realized when i started focusing on mileage is something that i did, and not to meantion everyone i know does. i used to get in the car, start her up, put my seatbelt on, get the music going, do another random thing or two, then start driving... usually about a minute before the car is even put into gear. (somebody else posted on here a while ago saying that 5 minutes of idling runs up 0.11 cents ish..) so something to learn is absolutely dont start the car untill you're ready to shift into gear and drive. those minutes add up fast, between work and errands one day i figured i had the car idle for a solid 15 minutes at the start of each drive.

(yes i realize its healthy to warm your engine up before going for a drive. but also started off slow and not gunning it cold is helpful too. and i would do the idle thing even after i'd just run into the bank for 2 min, so no heating was needed)... i figure for people who do lots of stops in their daily trips, this would add up to a significant amount of mileage before long. and all it comes down to is changing the order which you set up to go.

Thanks in advance for any and all responses to the questions, i appreciate it.

-Steve
1996 Dodge Avenger. (average city fuel economy : 27.77 mpg)

[SteveBraun]

Question 1 - http://www.scangauge.com/support/Com...Vehicles.shtml

to answer my own question after some reading and a quick search i found it myself. figured i'd post it up here incase anybody else was wondering

[ALS]

Hi Steve welcome to the board.

Question 1. Yes the Scangauge will work in your car. All cars sold in the U.S. since and including 1996 have a OBDII plug that is usually located under the drivers side dash board.

Question 2. As long as it is in neutral or in a higher gear such as fourth or fifth with the clutch disengaged you will not hurt the transmission. Do not ever leave it in first or second gear and think that because the clutch isn't engaged the transmission gears are not spinning. They may not be connected to the engine but they are connected to the drive wheels. I've seen more than a few transmissions toasted when the owners went coasting down a hill with the car in gear and the clutch disengaged. Engine may be at idle while your coasting at 40 mph but if the transmission is in first gear your spinning the gears as if your running 15,000 rpms. Nice way to over heat and destroy the bearings in the transmission.

Question 3. Not worth the time and expense for the minimal fuel savings you would gain.

Question 4. As long as you don't go over the maximum pressure rating on the sidewall you shouldn't have any problems.

Tip, Today's cars can be started and immediately driven. As long as you take it easily while it is warming up you will not harm the engine. Idling gets you 0 mpg. Driving 20 mph in traffic while it is warming up will get you 12-15 mpg. 12-15 mpg for the first five to seven minutes is better than 0 mpg sitting in your driveway idling.

I traded my 87 Volvo Turbo with 370K miles on the clock in 2009. I never let her warm up. I would jump in, start it up put my seat belt on and go.

[SteveBraun]

ALS,

about question two. i didnt actually know that the gears stayed engaged on the lower gears. tho i never put it into first unless i'm about to put my foot to the gas, the car always sounded slightly different when it was in first, clutch in and rolling. i didnt much like the different sound so i never let that happen. now i know why. good information to know.

most likely right about the flywheel, just seemed somethign that quirked my mind since i've seen the conversation swing wildly either way. however i do plan to change out my exhaust system. more mpg, more hp, more growl, whats not to love right?

thanks for taking the time to answer. and you're right 12-15mpg, is far far better than 0. its just that habbit of starting up and then getting everything else in the car ready before i drive.. realizing how much gas i waste there is kinda scary.

[RedylC94]

SteveB:
Coasting as you've been doing is unlikely to cause transmission damage, assuming you're reasonably smooth on the clutch reengagements.

[At] what point does the fuel saved from coasting and having the engine idle while doing so get offset by the extra gas needed to bring the flywheel back up from 900 rpm to 2000+

Only in case of very brief coasts, I'd say. When some cars are coasting in gear (I don't know about your Avenger specifically), fuel is cut off completely. In those, letting the engine idle in neutral when coasting can increase fuel consumption, compared to simply taking your foot off the accelerator pedal.

Changing to a lighter flywheel normally wouldn't affect fuel consumption significantly.

You're correct that we should minimize needless engine idling before starting off—or any other time.

[some_other_dave]

Remember that if you are coasting in gear you are slowing down more than coasting in neutral.

Any time your gearshift lever is in a gear, that gear is engaged. The drive wheels are spinning the gears in the transmission and spinning the input shaft, exactly as if you were driving whatever speed the car is moving in whatever gear you are in. So going 50 MPH in 1st gear, even with the clutch in, will not be good for the transmission.

If the lever is in neutral, then the gears inside the transmission are not connected to each other.

-soD

[ItsNotAboutTheMoney]

Originally Posted by ALS

I traded my 87 Volvo Turbo with 370K miles on the clock in 2009. I never let her warm up. I would jump in, start it up put my seat belt on and go.

But now you jump in, put your seat belt on, start it up and go.

[kaylowe]

Now I am working on improving fuel economy, but I must admit - I have a thing for comfort, too. I can agree about not idling EXCEPT when the temps are extreme. If it's biting cold or oppresively hot outside, I want to crank it up and get that heat/ac going ASAP.

But that's just me.

[carly940]

Steve, I am also new to this forum! I drive a 1998 Ford Expedition ( I know not really a chick vehicle) but get only 12 miles to the gal and am hoping to learn a lot here on how to improve on that substantially. Thanks for the Questions.

[Damionk]

Originally Posted by ItsNotAboutTheMoney

But now you jump in, put your seat belt on, start it up and go.

For me it's jump in, key to on, seat belt, SG on, car in N, check for kids playing, then start it up.