Kumho "rolls out" two new LRR tires

[FSUspectra]

So it has been a few months since this came out... anyone take the plunge and buy these tires yet? I'll probably need tires in less than a year and was wondering about them...they look like a very cost-competitive tire, but how does it compare to the Energy Savers and Fuel Max tires?

[PaleMelanesian]

I can't compare, but I LOVE the Fuel Max on the Odyssey. Smooth, quiet, solid traction, 51 psi and a bump in mileage compared to the previous OEM Michelin Symmetry's.

[Nevyn]

I have two KH30 "Ecowing" Kumho's to go on to replace my Goodyear Assurance FuelMax's. I think need of an alignment and EXTREMELY poor roads did them in early; 35,000 miles.

PA has two seasons: Pothole season and Road Construction season.

[MaxxMPG]

Originally Posted by Nevyn

I have two KH30 "Ecowing" Kumho's to go on to replace my Goodyear Assurance FuelMax's. I think need of an alignment and EXTREMELY poor roads did them in early; 35,000 miles.

PA has two seasons: Pothole season and Road Construction season.

My wife's Yokohama tires on the Chevy haven't worn well either. Her last snow tires - Blizzak Revo-1 - only made it to about 2/3 of their expected lifespan. In our area (NEPA), they have chosen to repave roads with this cheap technique of gravel and a binding goo mixed to make 'asphalt'. It saves the county money, but costs the motorist more in tire replacement, since it leaves a very coarse surface that is not tire-friendly. Lots of our neighbors there are also saying they seem to need tires every couple of years since they resurfaced the roads 3 or 4 years ago. I feel bad for the suckers with their "luxury" and "performance" cars with 18-20 inch wheels, who have to pay $250+ per tire when replacement is needed.

For alignment, the one spec to worry about is toe - front and rear. I don't know if front camber is adjustable (it's not on the new Sonata), and caster is also non-adjustable on modern strut-equipped cars. If you get a good alignment tech, you can ask them to align it to zero toe on both axles (if rear is adjustable), or as close to zero as spec allows. If the outer tread blocks are feathered, it's usually incorrect toe. If the tires are worn evenly across the tread surface, it's probably the result of miles of driving on the mobster pseudoasphalt they're using now.

[Nevyn]

Originally Posted by MaxxMPG

My wife's Yokohama tires on the Chevy haven't worn well either. Her last snow tires - Blizzak Revo-1 - only made it to about 2/3 of their expected lifespan. In our area (NEPA), they have chosen to repave roads with this cheap technique of gravel and a binding goo mixed to make 'asphalt'. It saves the county money, but costs the motorist more in tire replacement, since it leaves a very coarse surface that is not tire-friendly. Lots of our neighbors there are also saying they seem to need tires every couple of years since they resurfaced the roads 3 or 4 years ago. I feel bad for the suckers with their "luxury" and "performance" cars with 18-20 inch wheels, who have to pay $250+ per tire when replacement is needed.

For alignment, the one spec to worry about is toe - front and rear. I don't know if front camber is adjustable (it's not on the new Sonata), and caster is also non-adjustable on modern strut-equipped cars. If you get a good alignment tech, you can ask them to align it to zero toe on both axles (if rear is adjustable), or as close to zero as spec allows. If the outer tread blocks are feathered, it's usually incorrect toe. If the tires are worn evenly across the tread surface, it's probably the result of miles of driving on the mobster pseudoasphalt they're using now.

Ah, sounds like you speak of 'Tar & Chipping'? My NEPA is a little NE than yours, but same counties. T&C surfaces are like cheese graters on tires - and they're LOUD.

Believe it or not, but they actually center wore. One has more wear on the outside than the other, so I'm thinking alignment too - I also know I drive some of the worst pieces of roads in all of PA which doesn't help at all either.

Spec for 2004 Elantra:

FRONT
Camber: 0 degrees +/- 30 min
Caster: 2 deg 49 min +/- 30 min
Toe: 4 +3/-1 mm
Kingpin angle: 12 deg 10 min +/- 30 min
Kingpin offset: -1.0 mm
Side Slip : IN 3mm, OUT 3mm (when going forward 1m)
Tread: 1485 mm (58.46 in)

REAR
Camber: -55 deg +/- 30 min
Toe in: 2.5 +/-1mm (tire outer diameter 602mm) TOTAL 3~7mm
Thrust angle: 0 deg +/- 0.15 deg
Side slip: 2~9 mm (when going forward 1m)
Tread: 1475mm (58.07 in)


Tire Rack said the KH30's were new - I figured that meant new to TR, not new from Kumho. I didn't even see these two models of tires when I bought 'em last week. Weren't on Kumho's site yet.