Beating the EPA - The Why’s and How to Hypermile

[psic]

Originally Posted by johnburwell

Also, you will not see it on your MPGs but you will use less fuel if you take the inside of every curve (trafic allowing).
Thanks,
Woody

Actually, it should help with MPGs as well, though not by much. Not actually taking the inside of a curve, but driving like racing car drivers do, so start at the outside, at the apex (top) of the curve be on the inside, then finish on the outside. This is the fastest way around a curve, and it keeps your speed up as much as possible (cars lose speed on curves). Very useful for the glide part of a P&G, but obviously you have to beware of traffic and the traffic regulations. It works even if you just stick to your lane.

[Ruminator]

Thanks for the info psic. I wonder if there are any US organizations that do such comparisons?
Michelin Energy tires, do they advertize them to have the least RR of any tires? Does it hurt their wet surface performance?

psic, I think that johnburwell meant that the corner manuever won't show up on any MPG equipment as a recognized savings, but that it still is one by allowing your speed to remain hgher than otherwise?

[psic]

Originally Posted by Ruminator

Thanks for the info psic. I wonder if there are any US organizations that do such comparisons?

I haven't a clue. Perhaps the AAA? I like ADAC's because they are done very professionally and throughoutly (wet/dry stopping distance, cornering grip, rolling resistance, during the winter also snow/ice, road noise, etc.).

Michelin Energy tires, do they advertize them to have the least RR of any tires? Does it hurt their wet surface performance?

Yes, these tires didn't do so well in the wet (though to tell you the truth I haven't noticed much of a difference, especially now that I drive a bit slower). Besides a low rolling resistance they are also quite durable (last a long time), and are good in the dry. They were actually bought by my dad, but if I had to pick I would seriously consider them again.

psic, I think that johnburwell meant that the corner manuever won't show up on any MPG equipment as a recognized savings, but that it still is one by allowing your speed to remain hgher than otherwise?

Yeah, I wasn't sure, I first thought he ment that you would save on overall driving distance.

[Snowy_Jeep]

Good heavens, have I got a LOT to learn!! And then teach the hubby. I'm optimistic that even with our old beasts, we can way increase our mileage!

[artfart]

Thank you for all the great information. I drive a '93 Nissan Sentra (manual), and have always beaten the published mpg for this car. Reading through these, I'm reminded of when my dad taught me to drive in 1975. He taught me many of the acceleration/braking techniques mentioned here and to always anticipate when in traffic. I am anxious to learn all I can here to maximize my mileage in the future. Thanks again!

[some_other_dave]

Are there any studies that discuss oil levels in relation to FE? I am having a hard time visualizing how the level of the oil would add to the parasitic drag inside the engine. The viscosity, certainly--but as long as there is a "windage tray" or other method to keep oil froth from hitting the rotating assembly, I don't see how the level of oil can have any real effect.

-soD

[xcel]

Hi Dave:

___Frothing is one another is higher oil temps. About 2 – 3 degrees and every bit helps. If you keep it at half, you gain it all and save on the waste.

___Good Luck

___Wayne

[basjoos]

A couple of additional comments relevant to hypermiling an ultralow Cd vehicle. The benefits of drafting are somewhat less than when driving a draggier vehicle. Drafting helps, but just not to the same degree as it does with a typical car. I'll take advantage of a draft when one comes my way, but don't seek them out.

Since an ultra-low Cd reduces the FE losses at typical highway speeds, I can DWL up to higher speeds without losing FE. On slightly rolling terrain, instead of backing off on the throttle on the downhill to keep the speed from heading too deep into FE unfriendly territory and then having to add throttle on the next uphill to keep the speed from dropping too low, I will maintain the throttle setting and let the speed build up to 65-70mph on the downhill, which will often then take me over the crest of the next hill without having to add throttle.

[Elixer]

I've been lurking for a little while and I've always thought about my fuel economy so I thought I would add a few points which I think should be included/incorporated:

Faster cornering, especially in town. Any speed lost from braking you obviously have to use gas to make up for after you've completed the corner. This applies especially in town. However corners should always be taken at safe speeds. This could be combined with better cornering, ie starting from the outside and then cutting to the inside of the corner.

Bed covers for trucks - these improve fuel economy for trucks, especially at higher speeds

Smooth transmission shifting for manual transmissions, as it's own bullet - revving over the engaged rpm, or unsmooth shifts that cause shaking etc can reduce FE. The smoother the better, with rpm matching. I know you've included this with P&G, but perhaps it deserves its own section.

Clutch in (neutral) down steep hills with enough safe straightaway afterward. I drive a lot of hilly areas, and this one is good for a lot patches of interstate that cross the Rocky mountains. There are areas where one can get 20-30mph of acceleration from doing this. Note that if cornering or braking I always have the engine engaged. This one is good for reaching the peak of a hill on the interstate at 55mph then going all the way down, hitting 75-80 near the bottom, then using that speed to help make it up the next hill. Perhaps incorporate this in P&G with the section about hill climbing.

Open windows reducing fuel economy - at high speeds it's more fuel economical to roll up those windows and turn on the AC then to have the windows open. Open windows are terrible for aerodynamics.

I'm also curious about shifting on hills, and mountain roads. Is it more FE to hit that road in 5th with the petal to the metal at 65 and finish at 45, or is it better to downshift to 4th and finish a bit faster?

Sorry if I mentioned something that's already in the article, I tried to read it thoroughly, but there's a lot of stuff there, especially about hybrids.

[xcel]

Hi Elixer:

___Welcome to CleanMPG.

___Hopefully the following will help …

Originally Posted by Elixer

Faster cornering, especially in town. Any speed lost from braking you obviously have to use gas to make up for after you've completed the corner. This applies especially in town. However corners should always be taken at safe speeds. This could be combined with better cornering, ie starting from the outside and then cutting to the inside of the corner.

___DWB

Originally Posted by Elixer

Bed covers for trucks - these improve fuel economy for trucks, especially at higher speeds.

___Aerodynamic improvements on all vehicles is not what this dissertation was all about given any number of ways to improve ones Cd. A Tonneu cover for P/U’s is a great one however.

Originally Posted by Elixer

Smooth transmission shifting for manual transmissions, as it's own bullet - revving over the engaged rpm, or unsmooth shifts that cause shaking etc can reduce FE. The smoother the better, with rpm matching. I know you've included this with P&G, but perhaps it deserves its own section.

___A little to detailed for this but smooth is a good idea. When you see how elite level of P&G is performed, you may be surprised at how it may appear more like a Formula One driver running through the gears then a simple drive down the street. Smooth but very quick is not for everyone when pushing for maximum FE.

Originally Posted by Elixer

Clutch in (neutral) down steep hills with enough safe straightaway afterward. I drive a lot of hilly areas, and this one is good for a lot patches of interstate that cross the Rocky mountains. There are areas where one can get 20-30mph of acceleration from doing this. Note that if cornering or braking I always have the engine engaged. This one is good for reaching the peak of a hill on the interstate at 55mph then going all the way down, hitting 75-80 near the bottom, then using that speed to help make it up the next hill. Perhaps incorporate this in P&G with the section about hill climbing.

___Never run with the clutch engaged as the throwout bearing of a MT will be taking load even with none applied to the drivetrain. A FAS or NICE-On as described but with your P/U in N and foot off the clutch is the proper method.

Originally Posted by Elixer

Open windows reducing fuel economy - at high speeds it's more fuel economical to roll up those windows and turn on the AC then to have the windows open. Open windows are terrible for aerodynamics.

___This has more to do with ambient temperature. After some experience, you will find what level of air flow is comfortable (in many of our cases, tolerable) while causing the least amount of Aerodynamic disruption. Running A/C w/ the windows closed at speed does not necessarily give you better FE then windows down without at the same. You will have to learn this through real world experience on your own however.

Originally Posted by Elixer

I'm also curious about shifting on hills, and mountain roads. Is it more FE to hit that road in 5th with the petal to the metal at 65 and finish at 45, or is it better to downshift to 4th and finish a bit faster?

___Never drop the pedal to the metal under any circumstance other then escaping an accident from the rear or some other such low probability scenario. Higher speed into a trough and then DWL up the incline to a minimum target is usually best but each hill and traffic condition has to be handled differently. Practice with reproducible results is the only way to become efficient using this technique.

___With practice and a better understanding of the techniques outlined while driving a well setup vehicle in a safe and efficient manner, you will come around to achieving the numbers most here see daily. It is not brain science by any stretch. With a few months of hard work, you can achieve some great numbers for yourself no matter the vehicle you own and drive. Trust me, your future FE accomplishments will be so far beyond any expectation you may currently have it will place a smile on your face every time you look down at the Trip A knowing how far you have traveled with so much more fuel still left in the tank! I would hope that it turns into an endeavor of a lifetime and my only wish is that you also pass on the same to others for the benefit of all.

___Good Luck

___Wayne