Newbie with a Tiburon

[jbrat78]

Hello, all. Yet another newbie here, and I'm driving a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon GS. I've been reading from this site for some time but just registered today. My Tibby is a 4-cylinder automatic with shiftronic. The manufacturer rates my car's gas mileage at 22 city and 30 highway. The EPA, by comparison, rates my vehicle at 19 city and 27 highway. In either scenario, my vehicle is considered heavy for its size, so she tends to be a bit of a gas hog. My experience has given me gas mileage in the range of 25 to 27mpg per tank before attempting hypermiling techniques. For the past two months I've been employing some of the techniques advertised on your site. I have inflated my tires to 40psi (max is 30psi), I apply NICE-on since FAS is not an option for my car, I only run the AC when I absolutely have to, and I no longer take the freeway to work but take US-11 where my speed averages 45mph instead of 70mph. I'm now averaging 32mpg but would love to take that higher. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

[Vooch]

welcome !

great start

1) check your sidewalls for the max sidewall pressure - I'm guessing the 30psi you mention is the 'doorjamb; pressure which is a minimum.


2) The differences in MPG ratings have to do with the switch in methology in '08. Go with the higher ratings as a baseline.


3) if you car doesn't have a iFCD, get a scanguage


4) DWL, DWL, DWL on those hills should be your next technique - you'll need the iFCD to get good at DWL - you should see 40MPG at 45 MPH

[kwj]

Welcome and congratulations on what you've accomplished.

Ahhh, I wanted a car like yours since sitting in one at the Baltimore Convention Center's Motor Trend Car Show. If you go to the EPA web site: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calcu...umn=1&id=21738, you will see that the 19/27 is what the EPA figures your car would be equal to if it went throught their new 2008 testing. What was on your window at purchase, was what the EPA test actually rated your car, 22/30. So, about 25 MPG is average, and you are doing well above that.

For anyone with a Pre-2008 car, we request they use what was on their window at purchase. AND, you will exceed this by higher than you already have. Takes time. Practice only one technique at a time, and prior to doing it on the highway. Then get good at it to see what it will do.

When you say your tires are above the 30 PSI max, I wonder where you got that number from. For instance, there is a recommendation by the manufacturer, usually in the door jamb, but also sometimes in the filler cap or under the hood. On the tires is a Max PSI that the tire manufacturer prints (typically for Max load). If you go to that pressure, it will make for better rolling. Sounds like 40 is nearly it, but check.

If you haven't replaced your air filter in the past year, change it. That should typically be done every 15,000 miles.

And oil, what oil are you currently using? A good, energy conserving synthetic is recommended. Mobil-1 now puts out a 0W20, and a 0W30. They have a green cap (I wonder why). With a synthetic, you can go longer between oil changes. So, you get better mileage, and pollute less, win, win.

Why is FAS not an option for your vehicle?

[jbrat78]

To KWJ and Vooch, thanks for the info. I was a bit confused about the discrepancy between the EPA rating and what was included with my car when I bought it, but now I understand. With my driving typically being 75% highway miles, I was getting between 25 and 27mpg before I started trying my hand at hypermiling. Now I usually get between 31 and 33mpg, with my highest being 35mpg. I know I've still got some work to do, but I'm not discouraged. To answer your questions: The max tire pressure listed on the inside of the drivers side door is 30psi; max recommended pressure listed on the tire itself is 32psi. Every time I take my car in for service, they always adjust the tire pressure to 30psi. As for the air filter, it was just replaced last month at 30,000 miles. The oil that was put into my car at my last service stop was 5W20, I believe. And FAS is not an option for my car because the owner's manual states that my car is not able to be "flat-towed", or whatever you call it.

[Vooch]

DWL


DWL


DWL


DWL


on those hills

[Kurz]

Make sure you stay in top gear.

[ChenZhen]

So if I'm using the 2008 ratings for my mileage logs, does that mean I'm "cheating"?

I don't see the logic I guess. I mean, there are plenty of models out there that had no change from 07 to 08, and if every car from now going forward is to use the 08 ratings, why not just use those for everyone?

[kwj]

ChenZhen, the Mileage Logs are set up to compensate for the 2008 numbers. Fine if you have a 2008, but not fine if you have a previous year.

I'm not aware of any 2007 models that did not have a change for 2008. The 2008 test circuit is driven different than the 2007 (and prior) curcuit that manufacturers had to use.

Fueleconomy.gov has simply applied a fudge factor to come up with "comparable" MPGs for pre-2008 cars. It was not an actual test, just some "new" math. It would be best to use what was originally provided by your manufacturer.

[ChenZhen]

I understand that the EPA wasn't going to go out and test all these old cars with the new perameters.

I just don't understand why someone with, say an 07 Cobalt should use the old ratings and someone with an 08 should use the new ones, since the cars themselves are identical. To me it would make sense to just stick with the 08 for everybody, since that's what pops up when you go to the EPA site, and avoid a heck of a lot of confusion.

also, how do the mileage logs "compensate" for the new ratings? Is it using a "fudge" factor as well?

[jbrat78]

I want to thank Vooch for the advice about using DWL. I took my first crack at DWL this past week, and I've just returned from the gas station. I got 38mpg on this last tank, my best ever, so far. I'm hoping to crack 40mpg with this tank. Thanks, guys!