Converting 4WD gen1 Honda CRV to FWD

[Xringer]

Not too hard..

Two jacks. So you can lift the mount up and outwards..
Don't forget to remove the big axial nut first..




It pops out.. You can just see the Arm hiding behind the short shaft. It's bolt needs to be removed, before using the second jack.
That's the one I broke on the passenger side..




Yank it clear of the rear diff.




open it


Clean out the grease


And put it back in, lock the axial nut before driving..

[rkpatt]

Thanks Xringer

BTW- Do you know what size socket that nut is ?

[Xringer]

I don't recall the Nut size. But, it's not hard to remove after you release the safety lock.
I forget if it's a pin or metal crimp holding the nut, but I think you can use an
adjustable wrench to remove the nut. I do own a large metric set, so I might have used one of my sockets.. That was years ago..

When you put it back on, make sure to get back the way it was..
The safety lock should go back on the way it was before removal..

Don't lower the jack without that little shaft and nut installed!!
(Not sure, but I think something bad could happen).
And be sure not to let anyone drive it either..

Here's what holds the wheel on..



Here in MA, I think they use an Ice-Melt stuff on the roads that is also a Honda-Melt product..


PS:
I edited the above post. Added a note about a bolt that needs to be removed before lifting the wheel mount, with a second jack..
It's been so long, (and I was on my way to work this AM) I just forgot the one important step!

You should use great care removing those bolts! Soak them in break-free stuff over night..
A light impact ratchet might be better than applying slow pressure with a socket wrench.. (The way I broke one)!

[rkpatt]

Thanks for adding the info on the bolt . If it is stubborn, I will stop trying to remove it before it breaks ( use pBlaster and impact as you suggest ). I will move to plan "B" cutting of the one half shafts then drop the rear end which would permit me to pull out the other half shaft from the inside .

I would probably the cut the half shaft with reciprocating saw or even a hacksaw (slow) since using a grinder instead of a grinder with a cutoff wheel is somewhat risky due to the proximity to the fuel tank .

[Xringer]

Originally Posted by rkpatt

Thanks for adding the info on the bolt . If it is stubborn, I will stop trying to remove it before it breaks ( use pBlaster and impact as you suggest ). I will move to plan "B" cutting of the one half shafts then drop the rear end which would permit me to pull out the other half shaft from the inside .

I would probably the cut the half shaft with reciprocating saw or even a hacksaw (slow) since using a grinder instead of a grinder with a cutoff wheel is somewhat risky due to the proximity to the fuel tank .

If you have rust, cutting is a good idea, (if you have a good cutting tool).. No need to pull the wheels off.

DRAIN the rear Diff before starting your saw!

If you can crawl under there and not smell any gasoline fumes, you could use a cutting torch.
Just don't make any holes in the gas tank! A sheet metal shield would be good..

I found that dropping the rear-end (Rear Diff) to be a real PITB.. I recommend cutting both sides.
After the cuts are made, you can just yank out the diff shafts and un-clip the grease covers
and pull out the wheel sides in just a few minutes..

Just leave that pumpkin hanging up there, until you have a warm weekend this spring.


My left side bolt came right out. It was easy. So, I figured the right side would be easy too.
Big mistake. I applied a tad too much pressure and SNAP!!
I suddenly had days of hard work (and a big parts bill) ahead of me..

[rkpatt]

All done. I cut the axles (had a sheet metal shield). Getting the different out was easy . I there is a noticeable difference in response and mpg without the bad propeller shaft and bad differential . Thanks for your help .

[Xringer]

Originally Posted by rkpatt

All done. I cut the axles (had a sheet metal shield). Getting the different out was easy . I there is a noticeable difference in response and mpg without the bad propeller shaft and bad differential . Thanks for your help .

Good to hear you were successful. I noticed a lot more zip. I came near a roll-over
on a ramp, due to unexpected acceleration.

I'm not sure, but IIRC, you just got rid of over 100 pounds of excess weight too.

Come back and post about your MPGs sometimes..

Oh yeah, don't forget to check your valve clearances every 30,000 miles!
(The manual is wrong).

[nighthawk]

I specifically avoided the EX model due to it only being 4WD/AWD...pleasently surprised with the MPG of my CRV

[Xringer]

I'm surprised that my 2.5L auto Escape can do better than my old Standard Shift 2.0 CRV.
Especially when on flat roads at 40 mph. (Where I now can get 40 mpg without even trying)!

I live in the wrong neck-o-th-woods for good MPG. All the back roads are jammed and loaded with stop lights.
The highways are loaded with speeders.. Get on a 55 MPH highway like US-95 and
drive 55 in the right lane, and suddenly there's a 16 wheeler coming up behind you at 75!

No matter if the posted limit is 55 or 65, if I drive right at the limit, everybody passes me.
It's very rare to see another car (never a see truck) that's also obeying the law.

I'm guessing it's going to be the same way when gas is $10 a gallon..