Camping trip: Consistent DWL + Pure gas = OBLITERATED the Jetta's old tank record

[Mendel Leisk]

The catch is that only Premium fuel can be sold without ethanol.

Do you know any more of the story on that, why it would be that only premium gas is ethanol free? In our area we typically fill up at Chevron, and within the last year all the pumps have sprouted stickers: all but the highest octane pump stickers say "may contain up to 10% ethanol", while the premium pump (the very highest octane selection only) declares that it is "ethanol free".

As far as I know, for the vast majority of regular compression engines higher octane gas is not needed, and the only reason to use higher octane, "premium" gas is to prevent pre-ignition, that is a factor with higher compression engines, typically used on a few sports and/or luxury cars.

With the advent of computer controlled fuel delivery, the waters get muddied though: if the car's computer detects pre-ignition somehow, it may retard timing. As a consequence, most any car can use regular gas, albeit with the possibility of retarded ignition timing, to compensate.

Purely my opinion: there are way too many higher octane offerings/choices, considering the number of cars actually requiring the stuff, at least according to what the Owners Manuals say. Also, I know I'm a bit out-of-my depth, not really knowledgable on the subject, just some thoughts.

[hyperme]

Wow, nearly a 14% increase. That's a huge jump. You have set the bar high for your next challenge. Now go get that 45mpg tank......................should be very possible without the bikes. Good luck!

[ItsNotAboutTheMoney]

Originally Posted by Mendel Leisk

Do you know any more of the story on that, why it would be that only premium gas is ethanol free?

My guess is that the law's framed that way so most people won't buy it only those people who really need it.

[Mendel Leisk]

I've always looked on the gas company's marketing of premium gas as thinly veiled hucksterism. Looks to me like they've latched onto ethanol-free as one more ploy to sucker people into paying the exhorbitant higher octane prices.

Getting ethanol out of gas is likely a net benefit for environmental preservation, but I don't see why it should be exclusively high octane gas being sold without ethanol. Both issues: promotion of excessively high octane, and inclusion of ethanol in gas, will languish until the consumer/environment protection media latch onto it.

[xcel]

Hi Mendel:

In addition, Ethanol helps raise the octane of fuel so the refiners should be offering the non-Ethanol stuff in regular unleaded, not premium.

While crossing the Western section of NE of all places, I saw a Sinclair that was offering non-ethanol laced Premium. I am hoping Wyoming, Montana, Idaho and Oregon have such offerings as the WR needs Premium anyway

Wayne

[WriConsult]

Originally Posted by Mendel Leisk

I've always looked on the gas company's marketing of premium gas as thinly veiled hucksterism. Looks to me like they've latched onto ethanol-free as one more ploy to sucker people into paying the exhorbitant higher octane prices.

Getting ethanol out of gas is likely a net benefit for environmental preservation, but I don't see why it should be exclusively high octane gas being sold without ethanol. Both issues: promotion of excessively high octane, and inclusion of ethanol in gas, will languish until the consumer/environment protection media latch onto it.

I agree that so-called "Premium" gas is marketing BS as far as most engines are concerned.

But that's the way the latest revision to Oregon law (which took effect January 1 of this year) was written. Basically the Legislature wanted ALL automotive fuel to be E10, and so in 2008 they mandated that all gasoline be E10. But folks with small planes and boats freaked out, since their engines are often not designed to run on gasohol and a lot of them have reported problems. They successfully lobbied the Legislature to allow E10 in Premium. Whether that was because marine and aviation users typically use premium, or a legislative compromise to keep it from becoming too popular, I don't know.

Here is a page from the Oregon state government website giving some background:
http://www.oregon.gov/OSMB/news/E10.shtml

[WriConsult]

Wayne - here is a list of suppliers in the state, by county. You will pass through Malheur County, then Harney, then Crook, then Deschutes, then Lane to the coast. Counties from there will depend on your route back to Portland, but note that there are several retailers in Marion County (i.e., Salem area) to choose from and none that I've yet confirmed in the Portland metro, which may influence your route decision. Note that most of the suppliers listed are wholesalers -- you need to scan the list for retailers, and those with pumps and not just selling by the barrel:
http://www.oregon.gov/OSMB/news/docs/EthanolList.pdf

[WriConsult]

Originally Posted by Gas-x

I installed a hitch on my car and I am planning on doing this very thing. I am going to get a tray like that for hauling my portable fish trap fish house for this winter. I also just want one for any misc hauling needed, I am just wondering if it will tip side to side or if it is pretty stable. I have seen some in use going down the road that are moving all over the place. My hitch is a 1 -1/4" so might be super stable,how is yours for stability?

Mine's 1 1/4" too. Make sure to get the Draw-Tite 6500, which has a curved bar that causes the tray to sit 4-5" higher than the hitch itself. Most trays end up dragging on the ground when hitched to bolt-on under-bumper hitches on cars -- my previous "flat" tray occasionally scraped on the Outback, was barely usable on the somewhat lower Jetta wagon and was completely unusable on the yet-lower Golf.

It IS pretty wobbly though. My understanding is the only way to have a hitch attachment that isn't wobbly is to use an "anti-wobble" threaded hitch pin that pulls the bar tight against the inside of the hitch. Yakima, and Thule and other makers of hitch-mount bike racks use this method. Problem is, it requires a threaded (and smaller) hole in the bar. I suppose you could drill the appropriate size hole and then tap threads into it, allowing the use of a threaded pin. You'd want a drill press, though: 1 1/4" is a LOT of steel to drill through!