Timing belt replacement

[Mr. Pancake]

I plan on replacing my timing belt this weekend along with the valve cover gasket and maybe the water pump and was wondering if there is anything else I should do while I'm in there?

[JusBringIt]

I would check all the belts and hoses if those haven't been done recently. You might want to do the serpentine, but I'm not sure what the set-up is on civics

[warthog1984]

Definitely the water pump and associated seals. Maybe check the ignition wires? Check/replace all the drive belts you have to disconnect.

[drimportracing]

Mr. Pancake,
How many miles are on your Honda Civic EX?

If it's between 120-180k then replacing your timing belt and valve cover should be fine. Look at the belts for the AC and alternator when you take them off, turn them inside out and bend them sharply if you see cracks, tears or thread material replace them. Same for the timing belt. If it's 180-250k then do the water pump also to prevent a probable pump failure at 275-300k.

Front wheel bearings at 250k+, rear bearings are later (engine trans weight effects bearing load). CV axles when they make noise or 20k later, (I do a lot of U turns and cul de sac turns and have never replaced them immediately, I drove a 89 Honda Accord for over a year with a noisy CV axle, changed it not out of necessity but was doing the clutch so I might as well. (If your carrying family members I recommend immediate repairs but I <singular> live more dangerous and don't fear for the pizzas safety.)

I like to do front brakes, rotors, CV axles and transmission fluid at the same time.

PCV valves are cheap and are easy to replace since your doing the valve cover. You could adjust your valves if you have a Chilton or Haynes manual. It's a small metric wrench, feeler gauge and screw driver job. Easy.

You could bleed your brakes if you haven't done that in the last 150-200k miles. Upgrade to DOT4 without fear of residual mixing of DOT3.

Then of course there is the standard plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap. air filter, oil and filter. I have never had to change a fuel filter on my Hondas but I never got over 290k miles on them before I sold them or they were stolen. Hope this helps.

I gotta go to work. - Dale

[drimportracing]

Oh yeah, I carry radiator hoses in the trunk and replace them when they fail on the side of the road. (I don't think I have any in my metro) You could check your vacuum lines too. Get about 2-3 foot of each size and keep it in your toolbox. Oh you could remove and clean your EGR valve too. Tire pressure.... - Dale

[Mr. Pancake]

166,000 on the car. I don't know if the timing belt was replaced by the previous owner or not. The accesory belts look like they've been replaced. I've already changed the fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor and all the regular stuff like plugs, oil, filter, transmission fluid, brake pads. I guess I was just wondering if there was anything else that would make sense to replace that would involve taking off all the crap I have to take off in order to change the timing belt. I was also wondering if anyone had to replace any pulleys or anything when they replaced their timing belt.
Dale- you're trying to get me in trouble, Honda specifies that almost every fluid in the car MUST be official Honda fluid or you could face dire consequences with the exception of oil, windshield wiper fluid and gas.
Thanks for the advice.

[drimportracing]

Mr. Pancake,
I'm assuming you a referring to my suggestion to use DOT4 instead of DOT3, no worries, if I remember correctly DOT4 and DOT5 meet or exceed specifications required by DOT3 brake fluid.

As an important safety note though: If using DOT3 which is a glycol based fluid beware of switching to DOT5 fluid which is a silicon based fluid. Even with a small amount of DOT3 or 4 fluid left in the brake system, if mixed with DOT5 the chemical reaction is damaging, the fluids turn into a sludge and rubber seals will be ruined.

There is a DOT5.1 on the market which is a glycol based fluid that can be used in a brake system that DOT3 or 4 has been previously used but I have no experience with it and cannot make a recommendation. I also can't see it's need for anyone hypermiling as heavy heated braking isn't a common practice for anyone not drag racing, doing slalom or drifting regularly.

DOT5.1 is...read this page if your interested: http://www.motorcycleproject.com/mot...rakefluid.html

Topic change: I get about 180k out of a timing belt, so you are on schedule, as I see it. - Dale

[warthog1984]

Originally Posted by drimportracing

Mr. Pancake,
I'm assuming you a referring to my suggestion to use DOT4 instead of DOT3, no worries, if I remember correctly DOT4 and DOT5 meet or exceed specifications required by DOT3 brake fluid.

Dale-

Honda spec's their own brake fluid. Its not DOT like everyone else . Also, the Civic is an interference engine, which makes the timing belt a must-change-on-time item.

[drimportracing]

Originally Posted by warthog1984

Dale-

Honda spec's their own brake fluid. Its not DOT like everyone else . Also, the Civic is an interference engine, which makes the timing belt a must-change-on-time item.

Department of Transportation regulates the standard for brake fluid because it is an important safety issue and dangerous if not adhered to. So if it is a Honda DOT3 then it is a DOT3. There is no DOT3.1

Honda brake fluid may exceed the DOT3 boiling point but not meet the DOT4 standards, so by recommending a DOT4 you will have met and exceeded the higher standards that Honda recommends.

http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-3...its-clone.html

As for the timing belt recommendation, I agreed that he is right on schedule as he stated that he has 166,000 miles on his civic and is going to change the belt. I have had 4 Hondas and have had 1 break a timing belt (188K miles) while driving with no damage, I am aware that it is an interference engine, it has the possibility of valve contact with the piston when excessive rpms are in action and the timing belt breaks under stress.

I don't see where my advice is ill given. If it makes you feel more comfortable I could suggest that he roll his odometer back to 120k and then replace it. - Dale

[Maxx]

While in there for the t-belt, DEFINITELY change out the water pump, and you might as well replace the rollers and tensioner, too... while you've got the belt off.