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Well, on my last tank, I only achieved 25.3 mpg. As posted previously, I was only getting 20.xx mpg. I've been trying to glide as much as possible (which for some reason is very comical to me at times since I have several hills, and coast downhill into my garage as it opens is comical to my wife)..Nonetheless, I would love to get better MPG. I will be changing out my summer tires soon as the tread is low. For the winter I have a set of 17" wheels with snow tires on them...Any ideas on how to improve?

Thanks folks, I look forward to the advice..

Mobiuz3, are you coasting in neutral? If so, I would suggest getting comfortable with FASing (turning the car off by switching the ignition to ACC just long enough for the engine to stop completely, then switching back to the ON position so that your electrical components, air bags, etc are active -- usually only about 1 second in the ACC position).

Much of hypermiling is "reading" the road and traffic. If there are areas where you are able to coast for particularly long distances, these are good candidates for FASing. Look for opportunities to extend your coast distances by getting "running starts" if you can. I would estimate that my car is actually off somewhere close to 60% of my commute route on a good day.

Alternate routes can help if they reduce stops, have lower speeds, flatter terrain, less traffic, lights (which can be timed!!) instead of stop signs, or have smoother road surfaces. Be aware that different routes will be more effective at different times of day or in different kinds of weather. I recommend spending some time with maps to identify possible alternate routes, including modifications to your normal route that could be considered "detours" around troublesome areas.

By the way, my wife thinks it is silly that I coast into my garage too -- except I usually coast around a hairpin and then UPHILL into it. ;)

Would'nt cutting the car off lock-up my steering?..I don't know that in my area I have enough time to FAS..I do take the most direct routes with least amount of lights as possible, Though, if I hit one...oh boy does it hurt mpg...

The steering lock engages when the key is in the OFF position. You can test that out with the car off in your garage. Turn it one click to the ACC position and then try to turn the wheel. If you've engaged the lock already you'll have to wiggle the wheel a little to get it loose, but it should turn just fine.

You will lose power steering with the car off, and power brakes will depend on vacuum built up during engine on time -- usually good for 3 or 4 good presses of the brake pedal. Try it out when you are in an isolated area so you can get a feel for the power steering kicking in and out.

You'll want to do some calculations based on idle consumption to figure out where the break even point for starting the engine is -- at a certain time length the car will consume as much gas idling as it will starting the engine. Waiting longer then means you will use MORE gas idling than you will stopping the car, then restarting. For my vehicle that is in the 7-8s range when warmed up. Use that as your waiting at stop lights and FASing breakpoint.

Also, once you start trying this FASing stuff, keep in mind that if you KNOW you are going to have to stop, turn off the engine and coast up to the stop. This extends the engine off time in your favor without any extra effort on your part! Also, if you are wrong and the light turns before you get to it, bump starting will get you back on your way in short order and you've still saved gas by having the engine off instead of idling or worse during that time.

I hope that helps! If not, keep asking and we'll get it sorted out. ;)

Ahh, I see what you mean. Another question then, since I have never done it, and parts are not cheap for my car...how do you bump start...does it 'hurt' any of the components involved?

Thanks

Good!!

Bump starting is not difficult, but does require some skill. Most people who are unfamiliar with bump starting know only that you transfer momentum from the moving vehicle to the engine to turn it over by "dropping" the clutch. If you do this you'll get a jolt -- not good for the transmission, engine mounts, etc.

HOWEVER -- if you make it a two step process it can be extremely smooth, start the engine more quickly than the reduction gearing of the starter motor, and cause not much more wear than normal shifting will. The way you do this is by selecting a higher gear than what you would normally choose for the current speed, then briefly "touch" the clutch. By this I mean that you should let the clutch engage only momentarily -- just long enough to impart enough of an impulse to spin the engine over. Once the engine starts, you can rev match with the correct gear for your speed and continue. If you are fast, you can use the initial RPM spike as the engine starts to help you rev match -- that's how I do it and I'm generally faster bump starting and getting on my way in gear than most people are just shifting gears.

To get an idea of what this is like, think of spinning a basket ball on your finger. Even if you've never done it you've seen it done, right? Usually the person has the ball spinning and they speed it up by applying glancing blows to the ball. You want the clutch contact to be like that. It does take a little practice but Laurieaw was able to pick it up after about 2 tries when I explained it to her last Saturday.

Because it is momentary contact, there isn't much wear to the clutch. When you make it smooth using the method I've detailed above, there is no more stress on the car than hard acceleration puts on it. Add to that the fact that you aren't using the starter motor or battery at all for the maneuver and you are in better shape than you would be if you key started.

You'll still have to key start if you are going too slow. I've done it all the way down at about 4mph or so, but I have to use 2nd gear for it and there is quite a jolt. I don't recommend trying it much under 10mph with 3rd gear -- though it might be a bit different with your close ratio 6spd.

Does that clarify it well enough?

Great, thanks again for the tips..Will try later today..
As an aside, I am considering putting a hardtop (weighs 55lbs) on the car for better airflow, and winter benefits. I have switched my seats out to lighter GT3 seats saving around 80lbs, So I will still be lighter than that of normal Boxster S.

Then there is also the thought of a Fit Sport manual...not sure on it though...

Glad to help!!

The hard top should help the aero a bit.

If mileage is your concern, a Yaris may be a better choice (if the size is what you are after)? There are several threads mentioning the rather short gearing of the 5th gear in a manual Fit -- that hurts highway mileage quite badly.

What other techniques from this article (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510) have you tried?

Personaly I would save FAS and some other potentialy dangrous techniques until you have mastered the more mundane techniques. FAS is great if you know what you are doing, but it should be learned in a safe enviroment and only used after you REALLY know what you are doing.

What other techniques from this article (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510) have you tried?

Personaly I would save FAS and some other potentialy dangrous techniques until you have mastered the more mundane techniques. FAS is great if you know what you are doing, but it should be learned in a safe enviroment and only used after you REALLY know what you are doing.

Im with Tom....

FAS and other advanced moves come out way to soon. Learn the basics. Rome wasn't built in a day. Bit it darn near burn't in a day.....

Hi Jeff:
Learn the basics. Rome wasn't built in a day. Bit it darn near burn't in a day.....___You had me rolling with that one! Best laugh I have had all week :D :D :D

___Mobiuz3, like they said, you are going for the big numbers and not achieving even little ones. The non-hybrid Accord’s morning commute might have included 10 – 15 FAS’ over 95 miles and she would arrive at 49 – 53 mpg into the lot pretty consistently during the summer months. One FAS every 7 or so miles isn’t all of a 10% increase in segment FE. On the way home in the afternoon, maybe 60 + FAS’ and she would consistently allow 54 – 60 mpg. Why not grab the low to mid 30 mpg easy stuff first and work your way up to 40 + mpg stuff with advanced techniques once you have a better handle on all of this.

___Good Luck

___Wayne

Glad to help!!

If mileage is your concern, a Yaris may be a better choice (if the size is what you are after)? There are several threads mentioning the rather short gearing of the 5th gear in a manual Fit -- that hurts highway mileage quite badly.

Still, I have a Fit Sport, and i have been getting about 50 mpg on it. (with 60-40 FAS P&G)

Larry

I put on an Exhaust for my car. It is an option from Porsche for the car. It is in full bypass mode of the muffler. I just got 25.9 mpg in the city last tank. Just letting whomever is interested know. Thanks...

Thanks for the update! Are you still driving it in the cold??

2001 Porsche Boxster

how about a motor swap to increase your MPG

I will trade you even up

and for the loss of power i will even throw in an extra full tank of gas:bananalama:

Ha...about an engine swap...well,
When this engine goes (72,000 miles on now..), I plan on either sticking with the 3.2 or throwing a 3.4l in it..not sure how it would effect mileage, as the new Porsches supposely get the same mpg I get..I put an exhaust on the car...seems to slightly improve mpg...good things...

How are your hypermiling efforts going?

Good to hear from you again, by the way. :)

I am still driving in the cold. It's been about 25-30 in the morning here lately. I am about to put on the hardtop. The exhaust of course will always be on now... I am still getting 25.45ish on avg, even in this cold weather. I always check my temp once on the interstate, and it slightly surprised me to see that even in this cold weather, every time I hit the interstate cold or hot weather, I am warmed up and ready to GO,...or is that to be read: SLOW ;).....anyway...My efforts are going fine I guess just kicking it around 25mpg..I do not really want to try any cut-off-my-car-techniques, but am doing fine..

Any thoughts, comments, questions, feel free...and Happy New Year:woot:

Hello again! :)

Perhaps it is time to start playing with NICE on P&G?

So, I am just getting around 25mpg in my car now. I've got around 71,000 miles on the car...Thinking about getting a 'commuter' car to keep the miles down on the fun ride. I am thinking Honda Civic EX-L 5 speed. If I wanted to be bad..maybe the civic Si..

Any thoughts as to what people are getting in said cars? Any suggestions for cars in the 21,000 dollars or less category?..Car suggestion must be manual (can't help it)...

Any input is greatly appreciated.
thanks...

mobiuz3, there are mileage polls on the 8th generation Civic website that'll address your questions:

Civic DX/LX/EX:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/civic-coupe-sedan/22302-dx-lx-ex-your-gas-mileage.html

Civic Si:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/civic-si/23786-civic-si-your-gas-mileage.html

It almost seems like you could get the same mileage from either. If you look at the results, the highest percentage of people for the DX/LX/EX falls in the 27-30 mpg range. For the Si, it's falls in the 27-28 range. These numbers seem kind of low, but a hypermiler can do MUCH better. Skimming the threads, people can get into the 40's in both.

Other cars I'd recommend off the top of my head are Fit, Yaris, Corolla, Mini Cooper, and Mazda3.

Phil

Aren't the TDI Volkswagens coming out soon?

I believe later this year. I had a 02 WRX...nice job with your numbers....not easy ..

Hey all! Just as an FYI:
I just filled up and had 26.534 mpg,!!...Good things...Thanks for the help and ecouragement....

Hope all good...sip sip..not gulp gulp