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I just got my best leg of a trip ever when going home the SG starting acting nuts. I kept getting 11.9 mpg and it didn't want to leave this. I reconnected it when I got off the highway, hit reset, checked my tank settings, etc to see if they changed (they didn't). However, the rest of the trip looked a tad more plausible. BTW, I take it out when I am not in the car. And when I took it out at the store it was hotter than I had ever felt it.

I took it out overnight (but not the cable). And then pulled the all the cabling off my dash (which is black). Today I had a bit more plausible a run. But there were still implausibilities in there. I took it on the highway, did some NICE-on and it never got to 100 mpg. It typical does this even in city driving. I put it on a white laminated card and it was again a bit more plausible but still off. My driving effected it and more efficient driving got better nos., less poorer ones. But I didn't like not hitting those 100 mpgs and that sort of thing.

I talked to Wayne who said that I shouldn't keep it in the car all day in the heat, which I am not doing. He didn't know if there could be something wrong with the SG but that at least they are warrantied.

One more thing I am going to pull the whole thing and reinstall. Does the SG have its own diagnostic? Of course, if you tell me it does you would have to relay it all in English. :-)

It was particularly brutal this week in terms of heat. I read in a previous post re: temp problems re: no display, etc but not funny nos. is there something else I might have misset? I noticed in the manual somethign re: unreliable no. troubleshooting. It was something like if a reset when you fill up. I don't know if this could apply.


One more thing, I'm pulling all the cable and replacing it, and see if somethign could be loose, it seems more likely it wouldn't work at all. I thought of putting it on white foamcore which is quite a good insulator. Of course, it might already be broken.

I know my own computer does not like high heat, and this is a little computer.
Btw, this has been maybe two days.


--des

I used to have some problems with SGII resetting midway through a tank. I was disconnecting it at the end of the day. I corresponded with Ron of Linear Logic and he basically said to be careful when disconnecting the SGII. The thing to be careful about is that the SGII writes the data to flash memory a couple of seconds after it powers off. So, if you end up disconnecting it while the write is going on, it is easy to corrupt the data.

So, wait a few seconds before you disconnect the SGII after you power off. I don't know if it helps in your particular case, but it is something you could watch for.

Good luck.

Hmm, this sounds like a possibility? The old data is still there and looks ok. For instance, my 48.1 day is there (which is just the first part of the day that I started having the issues.
Did yours do similar things to what I mention? What appear to be wildly inaccurate mpgs etc. (btw, the TPS looks ok, but maybe not. I don't know about rpm. I have wondered about mph as well.) Another thing, today I supposedly averaged 98 mph! I never ever even have driven 98 mph! I'd think it was funny, except...

This also probably started at half tank.


--des

I used to have some problems with SGII resetting midway through a tank. I was disconnecting it at the end of the day. I corresponded with Ron of Linear Logic and he basically said to be careful when disconnecting the SGII. The thing to be careful about is that the SGII writes the data to flash memory a couple of seconds after it powers off. So, if you end up disconnecting it while the write is going on, it is easy to corrupt the data.

So, wait a few seconds before you disconnect the SGII after you power off. I don't know if it helps in your particular case, but it is something you could watch for.

Good luck.

I've had a spontaneous reset, but I'm doing some weird stuff with SGII right now, so I wasn't alarmed. Since I run on ºC I can tell when I get a reset because it jumps back to ºF, and the 4 gauges go back to default (think that's MPH, RPM, MPG, ºfWT).

If your OK with the loss of the tank data, and just want to recalibrate, I can help you with setting the calibrations without having any tank miles on the gauge as well as reseting the calibrations if you ever get another reset.

For figuring out when a reset happens (if that is a concern), I think the gauge display will throw the defaults gauges up there in the default position (top, left, right, bottom). Just set yours a bit different, and watch for a change.

As far as a test mode, I don't know. But there is a demo mode. I suppose you could run it through the demo and see if it locks up, but if it works, I don't know that you proven it good, just not proven it bad.

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It's worth mentioning that if you use window tint and a windshield sun shade, and crack your windows a touch in order to allow heated air to escape, it will likely never get hot enough in your vehicle to affect the SGII, thereby negating the need to remove it from the vehicle. This means your vehicle stays cooler for you as well.

I live in a high desert and have a charcoal-colored interior. My SGII is mounted atop my steering column and I've never had a problem.

I just leave my SG1 in the car,,,, Cook baby Cook!!!!

I'm ok with loss of tank data because I have yet to learn all the possibilties as yet. Let's go for it.

Could you try to splain this in English, as I am not so good in carish. :D

I have a shade but not tint, btw.



Thanks,

--des

I've had a spontaneous reset, but I'm doing some weird stuff with SGII right now, so I wasn't alarmed. Since I run on ºC I can tell when I get a reset because it jumps back to ºF, and the 4 gauges go back to default (think that's MPH, RPM, MPG, ºfWT).

If your OK with the loss of the tank data, and just want to recalibrate, I can help you with setting the calibrations without having any tank miles on the gauge as well as reseting the calibrations if you ever get another reset.

For figuring out when a reset happens (if that is a concern), I think the gauge display will throw the defaults gauges up there in the default position (top, left, right, bottom). Just set yours a bit different, and watch for a change.

As far as a test mode, I don't know. But there is a demo mode. I suppose you could run it through the demo and see if it locks up, but if it works, I don't know that you proven it good, just not proven it bad.

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Ok.. here goes.

First lets name the keys. The one with the red circle is called HOME in the manual, I'll abbreviate as HM. The others well call Top Left (TL), Top Right (TR), Bottom Left (BL) Bottom Right (BR). So the 5 keys are now named TL, TR, BL, BR, HM.

For demo mode your tank data (and your Today data) so just keep that in mind.

To enter Demo mode, hit the keys in this order HM, BR three times, BL three times, HM, TR.

Now you should see all the gauges dancing even though your not moving (or the car is off). I don't know how to exit demo mode, other than unplugging the thing. Might give you some insight if some gauge is stuck.

Now calibration is another problem. I have a spreadsheet in the Files section and you can call me for clarifications on how to use it. It's kinda complicated, and I'm not that good at simplification, but walking through it might help it make sense.

I'm a bit more obsessed with SGII accuracy than I probably should be, but it's just a number game with me, and I do that stuff for fun anyway. Big sudoku puzzle.

Also, If you haven't already, set all the important data in your SG, here's a bit about thatAs far as SGII resets, these are the things you need to know to restore your SGII

1) Engine Size : me=1.5L
2) Units : me = Celcius
3) Tank Size: me = 12g
4) Fuel Type : me = Hybrid
5) Mode : me = Auto = CANSF
6) Rate: me = Normal
7) Speed Calibration : me = 0%
8) Tank calibration : me = -5.9%

Just write then down on your manual and you can reset them at will. On my setup, 5,6 & 7 are defaults, so I really don't need to set them on reset. For most Units defaults to the preferable value, but I'm a hybrid of US and Metric units (cuz I'm nuts).

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Well email or PM me if you need help with the calibration worksheet, or just use the SG manual method which should get you within 1-2% of actual.

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Dan (or anybody else?), I'm not sure I can follow your callibration instructions. Close enough would be close enough, if you get my drift. :-) Is this the reset sequence here and is this what you meant the manual telling you what to do?

I don't care if I am a couple mpg off, I just want my good nos. again. BTW, I noticed that if I normally would get 132 mpg on a hill in NICE-on, I am consistently getting about 45 or so. Startign up I normally was getting 7 mpg now I am getting about 2.5. It seems wrong but rather consistently so. The settings haven't changed but the data I am getting looks like it did when I had the car set for a 3.0 liter engine. I went in today and changed the engine size 1.3 liters (or something like that) which gave me a little more what I was used to seeing.

Hit MORE > MORE > MORE > USE DEFAULTS >YES
Then redo the setup that you have written out (or know by heart).

--desI

Well I think we found the problem. I could never follow Dan's math, but he helped me out and we did find that my car thought it had used 12 gals of gas. Funny considering it is a little over half tank (on the gauge) and my tank is 13 gals. More look at SG and it thought some % which I don't understand said 235% vs maybe 0% (which is default). I was playing around with it one morning, the morning that was the last good tank I saw. I believe I might have set it somehow to give me such figures. How exactly I'm not sure. I don't think I reset it altogether, but might have reset the tank. I don't know if that would explain everything. I'm going to behave myself from now on. geeze! :o

--des

How much current does the thing draw from the DLC? How do
you let it know you're about to remove it from its power
source? The 12V to the DLC stays hot all the time.
.
_H*

How much current does the thing draw from the DLC? How do
you let it know you're about to remove it from its power
source? The 12V to the DLC stays hot all the time.
.
_H*Don't know the Amps, but I know the part has a fairly broad operational voltage. When hooked to OBD-II it runs on 12v, but it can also run off of a 9v battery. So it's operational voltage is likely in the range of 8-13v.

Never did much circuit layout, spent more time on flip-fops and NAND gates. How can I measure current without an Voltmeter or O-Scope? Thinking of hooking it up in demo mode for an hour and measure the voltage reading on the 9v battery (before and after).

Well I think we found the problem. I could never follow Dan's math, but he helped me out and we did find that my car thought it had used 12 gals of gas. Funny considering it is a little over half tank (on the gauge) and my tank is 13 gals. More look at SG and it thought some % which I don't understand said 235% vs maybe 0% (which is default). I was playing around with it one morning, the morning that was the last good tank I saw. I believe I might have set it somehow to give me such figures. How exactly I'm not sure. I don't think I reset it altogether, but might have reset the tank. I don't know if that would explain everything. I'm going to behave myself from now on. geeze! :o

--desFor those reading along at home... The problem (we hope) was in the tank calibration (screen behind FILLUP). Default offset for a tank (gallons consumed) is 0.0%. On the offending gauge, it read 235% So every gallon of gas measured was reported as 2.35 gallons.

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Everything looked right today. :-)
Thanks for everyones help, esp. Dan.


--des



For those reading along at home... The problem (we hope) was in the tank calibration (screen behind FILLUP). Default offset for a tank (gallons consumed) is 0.0%. On the offending gauge, it read 235% So every gallon of gas measured was reported as 2.35 gallons.

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