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View Full Version : Bad Gas= New Fuel Filter (tips on installation)


TheMiserlyManager
08-03-2011, 11:23 AM
Hello everybody,

I'm new to these forums but have owned my 2000 Chevrolet Metro for ages now and with stratospheric gas prices these days, I won't be posting a classified ad for it any time soon :cool: Anyway, I'm glad to join this awesome community of hyper-milers!

And now, onto my first post: I made the mistake of filling up at some sketchy looking gas station last weekend and fear that I have put in bad gas into my Metro. I was coming back from a road trip and gas stations were few and far between so I was between a rock and a hard place :o

As a result of this bad gas, I decided to change the fuel filter on my '00 Metro. This normally isn't a required routine maintenance job but if anyone is in the same position as I was then it's a sagacious idea to just go ahead and replace the filter. Here's a handy guide for this replacement procedure:

The fuel filter is located in the fuel tank; refer to the diagram posted on this site for more illumination on its precise location: Chevy Metro Fuel Tank diagram (http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?modelYear=2000&model=Metro&make=Chevrolet&catalogCode=15M&majorIndexID=03&isBigPicture=False&minorIndexID=SU0310001). Click on the 'Get Info' button next to the parts listing text and a window pops up showing the diagram.

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. As required, raise and support the vehicle safely.

**A small amount of fuel may be released after the fuel hose is disconnected. In order to reduce the chance of personal injury, cover the fitting to be disconnected with a shop rag**

4. Label and disconnect all fuel lines from the fuel filter.

5. Remove the bolts from the fuel filter mounting bracket and remove the fuel filter.

To install the Filter:

1. Inspect the fuel lines surrounding the filter and replace as necessary if damaged.

2. Install the new fuel filter and tighten the bracket bolts securely.

3. Install the fuel lines and tighten the clamps securely.

4. Lower the vehicle and connect the negative battery cable.

5. Start the vehicle. It may take a few seconds to prime the fuel system.

6. Check for fuel system leaks and repair as necessary.


That should summarize the whole procedure. Feel free to supplement this guide with your own personal insights :Banane21:


--Victor W.

RedylC94
08-03-2011, 11:56 AM
Hello Victor, and welcome!

What sort of mileage can you squeeze out of your Metro? Is it the 3-cylinder manual version? I've been hanging on to an efficient old car for the same reason you are.

Right Lane Cruiser
08-03-2011, 09:27 PM
We are glad to have you here, Victor!

RedylC94, I believe the 3 cylinder option was discontinued in the early 90's.

RedylC94
08-04-2011, 01:41 PM
RedylC94, I believe the 3 cylinder option was discontinued in the early 90's.
Guess again! The three-cylinder engine is listed in the Model Year 2000 Fuel Economy Guide, Victor's model year, with manual transmission. By the mid-90s, you did have to take a 4-cylinder engine if you (foolishly!) wanted the 3-speed, no-lockup automatic transmission.

Right Lane Cruiser
08-04-2011, 10:45 PM
Ah -- must have just been the XFE version that was discontinued, then?

TheMiserlyManager
08-31-2011, 02:58 PM
Hey guys,

I have the 1.3L four banger underneath the bonnet. Honestly, I ponder how exemplary my fuel mileage would be if I performed a three-cylinder engine swap but I think that I'd miss the extra horsepower and torque of my four on free way on-ramps ;)

Thanks for the warm welcome guys!

-Victor :Banane38:



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