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I recently got myself one of those battery chargers that can also jump start your car if your battery is dead. Since I FAS a lot and I drive at night a lot would it be wise to at the end of the day to charge my 12 volt until its topped off? I still have to pick one of those volt meters so I can test the charge, but maybe this method would prolog my 12 volt as well being able to FAS more often? Or driving alone and idling here and there is enough to make up the lost of energy used during FAS? (cuz usually my max FAS is no more than 2 mins my record was 4!)

attery Charging - Remember you must put back the energy you use immediately. If you don't the battery sulfates and that affects performanForgot to add, my car is in the garage.

GOOD battery FAQ http://www.repairfaq.org/ELE/F_Car_Battery.html#CARBATTERY_003

Some quotes I like to add in to keep in mind when your FAS:

Source : http://www.4unique.com/battery/battery_tutorial.htm


Battery Charging - Remember you must put back the energy you use immediately. If you don't the battery sulfates and that affects performance and longevity. The alternator is a battery charger. It works well if the battery is not deeply discharged. The alternator tends to overcharge batteries that are very low and the overcharge can damage batteries. In fact an engine starting battery on average has only about 10 deep cycles available when recharged by an alternator. Batteries like to be charged in a certain way, especially when they have been deeply discharged. This type of charging is called 3 step regulated charging. Please note that only special SMART CHARGERS using computer technology can perform 3 step charging techniques. You don't find these types of chargers in parts stores and Wal-Marts. The first step is bulk charging where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger. When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged. Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. Some gel cell and AGM batteries may require special settings or chargers.

^ great tip on figuring out how to read the battery meter feature of the scanguage:

To determine SoC as follows:

100% = 12.7 Volts
75% = 12.4 Volts
50% = 12.2 Volts
25% = 12.0 Volts
0% = 11.9 Volts

As you can see, decimals play a big role here watch out! And do recharge batteries immediately after discharge. As I like to quote from that same site:


A battery is like a piggy bank. If you keep taking out and putting nothing back you soon will have nothing.

visit the site for more in depth info.

Hi Phil:

___Having the small charging pack is a very good idea but topping off every night might be a bit over the top. Your Alternator probably runs at 13.8 + V when its running and can fill a battery for the next start in a minute or two. While in Kissimmee last week, the wife turned on an interior light in the Accord while I was at Sebring. Next morning, just enough cap was left to light up display. Called the hotels service people, they connected up their portable jump start battery, and off we went. Pulled into a Waffle House about 2 minutes later and had plenty of cap to bring her up for the next start. We are talking about dead to plenty of cap in ~ 2 to 3 minutes. A FAS is usually performed from full and you are not drawing anywhere near enough current to take her down all the way in most cases. An aggressive Warmup P&G at night over 5 + miles when it’s below 30 degrees F will take the 12V out but it sounds to me like you are barely touching her. Having a portable jump system is a good idea but plugging in every night is actually a bad one given the equalizing charge mode of many chargers can actually cause damage. A trickle charge at just above the packs current isolated V wouldn’t harm her but I think it would be way overkill.

___Good Luck

___Wayne

Ive never had 12v battery charge problems because of FAS. And yes it does get cold here. We had some 6 to 9 degree mornings here this winter and I Fas right thru them. I never had any issues when I lived in Co. and saw below 0 mornings. That car was a big block Chrysler. Once started neary a problem thru a day of driving. Yes I did hypermile it. The HUGE Newport, 383, Sedan would do a easy 28 mpg. All It took to keep the engine warm enough for a easy start in the worst of conditions was a 100 watt light bulb on under the hood. Keeping up with the orange cones needed to put on top of the car during storms was more of a pain than the cold temps. :)

Hi Psy:

___Using an aggressive warmup P&G as described above, I have been sitting on the side of the road in the Accord waiting for the battery chemistry to stabilize to get one more crank out of her. You have to consider how aggressive and in what type of environment you are in but for 99% of the FAS’ing - hypermiling community, they will not have to worry. Take it from someone who was just hoping for that 1 more crank that FAS’ing can take your 12V out but you would have had to been extremely aggressive and in the worst of environments to see it …

___Good Luck

___Wayne

how aggressive are we talking about here if you feel like buying a new 12 volt? Lets say you drive 10 miles in the city and you came accross.... in sequential order

1/4 mile stop sign
1/4 mile stop sign
not even 100 feet, another stop sign turn left

small inclinde up, then small inclide down, i must merge from the very left lane to the very right lane (which is coming from the freeway so they are driving super fast) so that i can turn right.

up a small incline, then down again for 200 feet until stoplight,

another one 200 feet another light greets me

now going for about 1/2 mile we are greeted with another light. (on the way there are small up and downs)

another 1/3 of a mile and im greeted by a light on which i have to turn left on. Before I approach this light I get a small incline boost!

A beautiful 1/3 mile flat towards the night light.

A couple of lights as I travel 1/4 up a small incline again.

Then after the 2nd light the incline drops and I'm greeted by two more lights! on the 2nd light I have to take another right.

road dips for 100 feet, then up 100 feet and down again to be greeted by a light.

Take my left on that light and school parking lot is to my right!

Help me :S

Hi Phil:

___Let me try and help but my case study of your drive really depends on traffic in the rear nad how good a handle you have on those lights.

Accelerate for ~ 1 block and FAS the rest of the way to the first sign -->
1/4 mile stop sign

Accelerate for ~ 1 block and FAS the rest of the way to the second sign -->
1/4 mile stop sign

Roll the second sign into the third if it were me ;) Otherwise, a short pulse to < 7 mph and FAS to the third sign -->
not even 100 feet, another stop sign turn left

Accelerate ~ ½ way up the Incline and FAS over the crest and down the other side if traffic is clear. If there is traffic, bring up the ICE and accelerate as needed at the crest to clear traffic and FAS into the right turn -->
small incline up, then small incline down, I must merge from the very left lane to the very right lane (which is coming from the freeway so they are driving super fast) so that i can turn right.

Accelerate ~ ½ way up the Incline and FAS over the crest and down the other side. Try and hold your FAS through the light. If it’s red, hold your FAS to a stop -->
up a small incline, then down again for 200 feet until stoplight

A quick pulse or hold the FAS from the last segment all the way into this next light -->
another one 200 feet another light greets me

Slow to medium speed P&G (maybe 2 pulses max) over the next ½ mile to the light. Use the descent to increase your Glide distances. Rabbit or Anticipate time the upcoming light with the slowest approach speed possible -->
now going for about 1/2 mile we are greeted with another light. (on the way there are small up and downs)

Quick Pulse and FAS all the way to the light. If its green maintain your momentum around the corner and only go ICE-On when traffic forces you too -->
another 1/3 of a mile and im greeted by a light on which i have to turn left on. Before I approach this light I get a small incline boost!

Quick Pulse and FAS all the way to the light -->
A beautiful 1/3 mile flat towards the night light.

Slow speed P&G (even up the incline) and FAS to any stale Greens or Reds -->
A couple of lights as I travel 1/4 up a small incline again.

FAS and keep your glide until a red light catches you -->
Then after the 2nd light the incline drops and I'm greeted by two more lights! on the 2nd light I have to take another right.

Quick pulse up maybe ½ of the first incline and FAS all the way to that upcoming light -->
road dips for 100 feet, then up 100 feet and down again to be greeted by a light.

Slow speed P&G and FAS into your school parking lot -->
Take my left on that light and school parking lot is to my right!

___I cannot guarantee this scenario will work in all traffic situations in your drive of course but from your description, I would probably be running the techniques as I described them above. Again, it really depends on traffic from behind? If I am coming into a red light, I don’t care how far I back drivers up behind me. As long as the light is still red when I am crawling up to it, who cares. If it’s a green, I won’t hold the traffic up behind me to much if at all.

___I hope this helps but you must not only be cognizant and responsible for your own safety as well as those around you. Over 10 miles, I bet you could find a ton of alternates to get out of the higher speed merges/crosses and really pump up that segment FE.

___Another note. Your scenario sounds like a really great low speed P&G commute. I pictured TBaleno and myself in his HCH-I last year crossing the major intersections of Chicago when we punched out a touch over 100 mpg’s for the last 10 miles of an 80 - 85 mile commute. I had to back calculate the actual with his HCH-II’s aFCD sitting at 79.x as we left the Interstate to 82.x when we pulled into his parking spot at the front of his home. I sure would like to see the video of your commute after you have optimized it for max FE …

___Good Luck

___Wayne

^ I'll be sure to film that very same route for you when i get everything setup. Now I know truly (I think :p ) know how you drive... you just taught me even more tricks to try :D .

Although max speed varies from 50 Km/h and 60/km/h most of the time I"m always cruising at those two speeds in 4th gear so I have pretty low revs (1800 vs 2000 rpms) and to maintain those revs I can feather the throttle and bleed up a hill blah blah.

But what I didn't realize is that he was taking corners with the ICE off, I"m usually in gear (2nd) so that when I completed the turn I'd rev up to 4th. (shifting at 2500 rpms flat road) So that I can glide in neutral and decide to turn off the engine or not. Sometimes when my speed is sufficent enough I try to take the corner in 3rd but that results in some low 1000 rpms all the way to 2500 rpms and then not even bother going into 4th because so much time spent on 3rd its just better to coast :eek:

Now the delemma I have (because I have so many stop lights to wave and say hi to, man 1st gear starts do suck) is when I know that my ICE is off and I am forced to stop I either a) bump start so I can idle for less than <10 seconds so I"ll be on my way no fuss, no radio intrrupted or b) I stop completely and enjoy the extra + < 10 seconds of ICE off time and then when the light turns yellow I turn the key...

Ok here's where things get tricky... back in my noob how to learn stick days. There were times when I thought the engine would stall and I have to clutch in and turn the key. But there were times when I clutch in all the way just in time to save the engine, but with me it sounds like its dead. So I turn this key and I hear this CRREEEEAKK CREEAK like wow it sounded like metal was grinding together very virgoriously. I look at my tach and my engine was idling but my starter?... :confused:

I still haven't replaced the starter yet but I have done that quite a few times being the first owner of this car. So I get this paranoia of just turning the starter for a bit and then letting go but that's when the engine won't go! There were times when the lights were green and I"m still cranking in panic because I'm worried about hearing that CREEEK sound again. So my question is when is the right time to let go of the key? Sometimes I get characterstics like engine revs climb to idle very slowly... or revs drops as I try to put it in 1st gear and go but climbs again when i gas (kinda like pulling really hard first then smoothing out). I should have continued holding the key into IGIII until the revs jump past a certain RPM?

Oh and just out of topic..when you start out in 1st do you clutch up till friction point and let the torque give you some momentum and then release clutch till car rolls and then accelerate?

Or

You clutch into 1st to the friction point and gas very little then letting go of the clutch at the same time?

Thanks Wayne hehe :)