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Well, almost. I am at 99000 miles. I will be at the 100k mark this month.

You might ask what problems or maintenance have I had done and what is my mpg?


Maintenance:

- I have changed the oil every 10k with mobile 1 0w-20 synthetic except for the first 2 oil changes which were at 5K and not synthetic oil.
- currently on my second set of tires at with 51k on them
- I have changed the tranny fluid twice, once at 45k and the second at 90K.
- I have replaced the air filter first with a honda oem filter but that would get expensive so I used a washable K&N after that and I am currently using it.


MPG:

- I didn't care at first then after 6months(probably averaged 36mpg). I became interested in hypermiling and achieved a tank of 70.5mpg. For the last year I have been averaging about 40mpg driving with CC at 70mph and using the A/C. I would have to guess that my average is some where near 43-45mpg. You can check out some of my mileage logs on clean log forum.

Problems:

- The electric power steering was cutting out every now and then a few months ago but it hasn't lately.
- rattle noise from the A/C vents in the dash on some not so smooth roads, I just dealt with it, not too bad.
- well the shifting is long so I installed a short shifter.
- there is no dead foot rest so I installed the zeta dead pedal.

What lies ahead:

- 100k tune-up - oem spark plugs
- new tires in hopefully more than 10k
- brake pads and probably the rotors(I will go ahead and put new brake fluid in too)
- radiator flush

So, there is my update. I will let you know how it goes with the 100k check in. I haven't heard of many FITs in the 100ks yet so I thought I would post and give people like me an update of what they can expect or not.

Congrats.

My 08 Sport A5 is largely assigned to my son at college, now. We have around 27M on the clock. I get 40-42 on the freeway. Best segment 59.5 with a tail wind and using FAS. Son gets down around EPA with twitchy pedal foot and more speed and acceleration.

Great car. We have not done anything but change oil/filter and engine air filter, plus 1 tire rotation. OEM front tires wear pretty fast. It blew a main fuse, but was fixed under warranty. Wish we had the stick so I could bump start, though my gear ratio is better.

I didn't realize you drive 'normal' most of the time. Not 60-70 mpg all the time. Life interferes, but it is nice to know it is there when you need it, huh?

Nice work! Keep up that maintenance and you'll be going 100 more. :Banane04:

Just a few edits and updated the mileage, 99k now. :P I hope to keep this car as the daily driver and pick up a car to tinker with after we pay off the my wife's CRV.

I will be do for an oil change around 100k as well seeing that I am at 30% oil life now.

I have been doing some reading and searching and realized I have never checked the valve clearance. So that will be on my to do list at 100k. Since I that will be a tedious process, removing the intake manifold, I am going to check the EGR valve and passage to see how mucked up they are as well.

I plan on taking pictures of the whole process as well. It looks like i will be ordering $71.00 in OEM gaskets. :P

Do those have solid lifters, or hydraulic? Is there a scheduled interval for checking/setting valve clearances?

Many of the hydraulics are set-and-forget, particularly on modern motors.

-soD

I've never heard of a Honda requiring intake manifold removal for valve check: are you sure about that? I've posted a thread on checking valve clearance on an HCHII, fwiw.

Typically a valve check involves a few disconnections (vacuum hoses, spark plug leads, etc) and valve cover removal. The inspection consists of several manual rotations of the crankshaft (typically via a large diameter bolt accesable through wheel well) and check of clearance with feeler gauge. Adjustment as needed involves loosening an adjusting screw lock nut.

A typical inspection, first time on an unfamilar car, will take you an afternoon. Subsequent inspections about a couple of hours. The HCHII was a bear because trim pieces at the base of windshield needed to be removed for better access, and a wiring harness atop the valve cover was another bear.

Do you have the Service Manual? It's almost necessity, for clearance specs, cylinder sequence, etc.

My 2 cents, valve checks are a very neglected maintenance item. Back a few decades the service interval was around 20000km, I believe. I don't think things have changed that much in the valve train. IMHO, a valve check should be done fairly early in an engine's life, just after break-in. Then a longer interval, say 40~50 thousand km is warranted, still much less than whatever the Maintenance Minder has up it's sleeve these days.

What tires and size did you replace the OEM's with? I am starting to look for some new tires for mine, and all the new LRR tires do not come in OEM Sport sizes.

Look at the Kumho eco-solus.

I would agree with the IM removal but the FIT is a different animal. The picture shows the open head with removed VC and IM. The IM would be attached on the right of head and curves over the top of the VC.

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww293/superfit2008/SSPX0174.jpg

Here is the HONDA procedure:

http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/90/SAA2E90A14600017811KAAT00.HTML


For the tires I am using the same size but I am using the Kuhmo Ecsta Lx Platinum which are rated at 60K. I have been running pressures of 85-55psig, mostly 75psig though. I have seen more center wear on the tires. I have rotated them 2 times, that I can remember(front to back and not diagonal).

I've got a MT too. The salesman was trying to talk me into an auto since the MT's were hard to find. I think he just wanted a quick sale but I waited for my car.

I just tripped 42k on my car that is 2yrs old now. I think the car is just now broken in. I can haul two sets of body armor, corresponding gear, ruck sacks, duffle backs and suit cases of civies and the extra weight will dropped me to 41mpg (including my buddy) from Ft. Bragg to Ft. Gordon. I've used it to take the fam on a weekend vacation. Plenty of room until you add the baby stoller and then the smaller bags go under the kids feet.

Finally have all goodies in hand but I will have to wait until next weekend to perform the maintenance. Vacation this weekend.:woot:

In for the updates:

- I haven't finished yet.
- I still need to check the valve clearance and adjust if necessary.
-I spent 4 hours on it last night.
-The EGR chamber was crudded up and I cleaned it which took a while and the associated chambers in the intake manifold and block as well. -I replaced the PCV valve and removed and inspected the EGR valve. -The EGR valve appeared to be fine.
-The PCV valve was sluggished compared to the new one(what do you expect for 100k). -
-I also cleaned my air filter
-I lost 2 bolts but I found one; still on the hunt for the 1 bolt.
-Oh, I forgot to order the EGR chamber cover gasket. Hopefully the local dealer will have it or I will have to reuse the old one.
- I didn't take apart the intake manifold completely or remove the throttle body(I won't be using the red gaskets for the manifold that connects the plastic to the aluminum parts)

Pics:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3431.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3432.jpg

wheres the manifold:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3433.jpg

There it is:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3434.jpg

a little build up:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3435.jpg

IM gasket:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3436.jpg

crude:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3437.jpg

chamber with gasket:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3438.jpg

chamber w/o gasket:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3439.jpg

cleaned:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3441.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3442.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3449.jpg

Plugs:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3443.jpg

plug1:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3444.jpg

plug2:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3445.jpg

plug3:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3446.jpg

plug4:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3447.jpg

any difference?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3448.jpg

EGR:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3450.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3451.jpg

PCV valve, you can't even think about getting to the with the IM on:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3453.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3454.jpg

VC removed:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3455.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3456.jpg

The head looks great no tarnishing, MOBILE 1 0w20 synthetic FTW

updates:

- haven't found the bolt yet. :P
- Well, adjusting the valves was a pain in the ass!!!
here were the clearances:
#1 - I - .009 E - .010
#3 - I - .009 E - .007
#4 - I - .009 E - .011
#2 - I - .009 E - .008

I adjusted them to I - .006 E - .012

I did this because the Intake seemed to loosen up while the Exhaust seemed to tighten up.

Also, you must remove the passenger tire and part of the under guarding to access the crank bolt in order to rotate the crank. I must have removed about 6 of the plastic nail/screws and luckily none broke. :P

It was hot and my camera fogged up :P
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3457.jpg

#1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3459.jpg

Also, I have drained the coolant and oil and oiled the K&N air filter. All that is left to do is put it back together. :P

Oh, no one has the EGR chamber cover gasket. I will be reusing the original one. It looks fine since I cleaned it off.

Thanks for the great photos. Keep us updated on your progress.

I am finally finished! That was an adventure, one lost bolt, a few cuts and I had to reuse a gasket. I just need to wash the car but thunderstorms are brewing. This will be a difficult project for people with big hands. This is very time consuming. I wish everything was easily accessible like the D and B series motors. This is well worth a $100+ dealer charge. I believed I had to remove 6 hoses and 6 senor clips to remove the manifold not to mention the bolts are a pain to get to and the gaskets weren't cheap! I hope I don't have to do this for another 100k.

All cleaned and back together:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3460.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/princealbert/FIT/DSC_3461.jpg

It looks like there is a star-shaped perforation in the fender liner that would be in line with the crank pulley bolt. I'm betting that you could get an extension (and possibly a socket and extension!) through there so you didn't have to take apart the fender liners.

How often are the valves supposed to be adjusted? On my 90 Si, it's every 15K miles. The removal of the manifold looks to be a major chore, particularly for any kind of frequent maintenance. (I wonder if the lifters are hydraulic, and therefore self-adjusting to a large extent?) This certainly makes me think twice about getting one of these cars, though.

Good job, though!

-soD

some_other_dave -

You are correct about the preferation but I wanted to check everything that I could visually check, belts, leaks, etc.

The recommended the valve adjustment is when you hear noise. the motor is always noisy! :p. It is a pain to get too.

Thanks for posting the valve adjustment job on your FIT. Now I know I wouldn't like to get this car. The valve adjustment is very easy to do on my 1999 Civic HX M/T.