Archives




View Full Version : Power Window Auto Up/Down rest (without HDS)


Mendel Leisk
03-20-2010, 12:15 PM
This is specific to the Honda Civic Hybrid II, but likely works for any Honda's with auto up/down function. I actually cut-and-pasted this from a 2008 Accord Service Bulletin PDF, but checked it against the 2006 Civic Hybrid Service Manual.

The main variation: the 2006 HCHII service manual says to do step 4 once, then repeat three more times. OTOH, the Accord PDF says to do step 4 three times in total. Also, the Accord bulletin uses more bullets (*) and less numbered steps, but the instruction is the same.

In short, if you don't have a HDS (Honda Diagnostic System?), and your power window is misbehaving, say stopping short of full up when you do Auto Up, this might fix it.

Driver's Side Power Window Auto Up/Down function reset:

Resetting the power windows are required when any of the following have occurred:

* Power window regulator replacement, removal/installation, or repair
* Power window motor replacement, removal/installation, or repair
* Window run channel replacement or removal/installation
* Front passenger's power window switch replacement or removal/installation*
* Door glass replacement, removal/installation, or repair
* Power is removed from the driver's power window master switch or front passenger's power window switch while the power window timer is ON.

NOTE:

* Do each bullet in step 4 within 5 seconds of each other.

1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Move the power window all the way down by using the power window DOWN switch.
3. Open the driver's door.
4. Do the following four times before going to step 5:
* Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
* Push and hold the power window DOWN switch.
* Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
* Release the power window DOWN switch.
5. Confirm that AUTO UP no longer works. If AUTO UP still works, go back to step 1.
6. Move the power window all the way down using the power window DOWN switch.
7. Pull up and hold the power window UP switch until the power window is all the way up, then continue to hold the switch for 1 second.
8. Confirm that the power window control unit is reset by using the power window AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN function.

* If the power window still does not work in AUTO, repeat the procedure several times, paying close attention to the 5 second time limit between steps.

Mendel Leisk
03-28-2010, 01:14 PM
My motivation for the above was a misbehaving driver's door window. A week or two after doing the reset procedure, the window started acting weird again, not doing auto-up, almost jumping out. The voice of experience said, once again, this is likely due to the recent accident.

My wife had noticed right away when we picked it up from the body shop: the driver's door glass would do a little dance, just as got to the top. Both doors on that side had been replaced, just the steel, the components such as interior panels, latches, switches, windows and guides, all were tranferred over from the old, damaged door.

This morning I bit the bullet, studied the Service Manual (once again it paid for itself), removed the door's inner panel and fixed what the body shop had screwed up. There's 2 small bolts securing the glass to the rasing mechanism at the bottom. You loosen them, then firmly push the glass back into alignment with the track, and re-tighten.

When I got the interior panel off it was a bit of a mess of course: the vapour barrier a bit mangled, it's tacky adhesive smeared around, one cable routed through the wrong vapour barrier opening, and a missing (but not crucial) fastener. Anyway, I successfully fixed the glass alignment (you can run it up and down while it's all open), straightened out the vapour barrier and cable routings, put things back together, re-did the above reset of auto up/down function, and it's behaving just fine now ;)

drimportracing
03-28-2010, 01:59 PM
Nice work! Send the body shop a bill. :D - Dale

Mendel Leisk
03-28-2010, 02:39 PM
That's the unspoken thought, but I guess I won't. I don't know that it's possible for them to accomplish some things. Maybe there are some shops that will do the diligence, not sure. So far since the accident and repair, I've:

1. Loosened hinges and re-aligned both front and rear doors on the impact side (we were t-boned). And they needed attention. I actually did take them to task on that, gave it back to them to remedy gross mis-alignment, along with some photocopied pages from the Service Manual. They gave it back "closing like butter", which equaled very slightly closer. The front door was a bear: to get at it's hinges you need to take off the front wheel, mud flap (so far straight forward), peel back at least half of the plastic fender liner (getting complicated, some of the fasteners almost defy removal), remove the little plastic bulkhead in back of the front fender (more tricky fasteners, till you discover the secret to removing them), and possibly loosen the bottom bolt fastening the actual front fender sheet metal.

2. Extracted and replaced an underpanel bolt that they managed to shear the head off (and kept quiet about). That was a first for me: researched it a little, and picked up a nice set of bolt extractor bits at Princess Auto. BTW I had around 5~6 relatively pricey plastic fasteners in the trunk: they mysteriously disappeared (hopefully they at least used them on my car, LOL).

The car is still not "right", at least that's my feeling: there are creaks and groans, particularly at low speed turns, maneuvering in parking lots. One of the steering linkage ball joints (their replacement, basically the whole front suspension on driver's side, with salvage parts) is showing a signif. amount of grease on the outside of the rubber boot. I wiped it clean and will keep an eye on it. If it grows more grease, that is one I will for sure bring back to their doorstep.

When we picked up the car it just didn't feel like ours any more, just the little things: the windshield washer fluid was so dry it had hairballs, the trip meter mileage stood at 29 liters/100km (I didn't think that was physically possible), they'd employed the temporary spare (previously pristine), to take a spin over to where one mag was getting refinished, I suppose. And with that mag, it looked after completion of machining someone dragged it good-face-down across something, and dropped a few tools on the center cap. Plus of course when they re-installed it they used the Godzilla of impact wrenches. Depressing, all in all.

Ok, guess I'm just venting now, like Psyshack. So when's the next gen. due, and what could we get for our clunker... ;)



Copyright 2006 Clean MPG, LLC. All Rights Reserved.