Archives

Hello everyone, I'm confident that there is a solution for my problem as opposed for me to settle on 12 MPG. So I purchased a ELM327 OBD scanner and used EasyOBD2 free software.

Also I disconnected my MAF sensor to see if i noticed any improvement (disconnected at obd test) however haven't driven yet since disconnecting, but check engine light did come on after a test run which was expectable.
(Was told that I should disconnect MAF, or O2 sensors to see if I notice an improvement disconnecting a faulty sensor, which now honestly I suspect MAF or O2)

The car has been a gentle ride, engine sounds strong, transmission good, besides 2 really cold days that it gave me some trouble to starting and RPM's jumped around that day after it turned on I NEVER received a check engine light before I'm sure there is information here that can conclude a solution.

Here is a detailed summary for your fair opinion.

-Car was purchased from a friend who alway gave good maintenance. (88K Miles)
-Has always given me around 12-13 MPG since purchase. (Friend never bothered finding mpg's)
-Received a FULL tune up just 2 months ago with same results :(. [LIST OF PARTS]
Air filter, Fuel filter, Sparkplugs + wires, Hcv valve, Oil change. Tires filled to 32 PSI.
-I'm an economic driver... try to keep the automatic on the highest gear without hard accelerating, never jackrabbit, overdrive ON always, anticipating stops... etc...
-My 12MPG average is with 60% city 40% highway, usually getting a terrible 160-180 miles / 13 gallon fillup.

Scanner Results are (CAR ON IDLE)
Absolute Throttle Position 16.9 %
Engine Speed 782.75 Rpm
Vehicle Speed 0 Kmh 0 Mph
Calculated Load 29.0 %
Ignition Timing Advance Cyl #1 32 Degrees Advance (+)
Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop Control using Oxygen Sensor - Normal
Fuel System 2 Status Not Available
--------------------------------------… >>>>>>> WHY SECOND PORTIONS ON 0%??? BAD O2???
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 14.06 % Rich (+)
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 21.09 % Rich (+)
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 3 Not Available
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 4 Not Available
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 0.00 %
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 3 Not Available
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 4 Not Available
--------------------------------------…
Mass Air Flow 0.00 g/s 0.0 lb/min
Intake Manifold Pressure Not Available
Fuel Pressure 270 kPaG 39.2 PsiG
--------------------------------------…
Coolant Temperature 60 Deg C 140.0 Deg F
Intake Air Temperature -40 Deg C -40.0 Deg F
--------------------------------------…
Continuous Monitoring Tests
Misfire Completed
Fuel System Completed
Components Completed
Non Continuous Monitoring Tests
Catalyst Not Completed
Evaporative System Not Completed
Oxygen Sensor Not Completed
Oxygen Sensor Heater Not Completed
Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Not Completed

I can definately see a problem with the MAF sensor.

And possibly the O2 sensor.

And you might see about airing those tires up to ~44 psi.

The intake air temp is frightening. If it's -40F outside you mileage will be terrible. Are you driving in snow? Short trips will really hurt you in the extreme cold.

alright guys thanks for the responses, I will reconnect the MAF sensor, and make a few miles run later this week to give new updated data, thanks!

i really hope we can scope it down to a certain sensor, be it maf,o2,iat!
by the way is that Absolute Throttle Position 16.9 % normal?

Absolute Throttle Position of 16.9% sounds reasonable. -40 C for intake temperature is just because the MAF is disconnected. The coolant temperature is only 60 C. I would expect something around 85 C on a fully warmed up engine. If this reading was taken after idling the car for a few minutes from a cold start, this is normal. If this is after having driven several miles, you may have a faulty thermostat or a radiator fan that runs continuously (it shouldn't). Also, it looks like all the emissions tests (catalytic converter, evaporative system, etc.) are incomplete. Had you recently disconnected the battery?

When you record results next time, make sure it's after the car has fully warmed up. Also, do you make mostly short trips? The car may not be warming up during short trips and might explain your low mpg numbers.

enyce, Where are you from and what kind of drive do you have??

Post the EPA mileage rating so we have something to reference against. The 2000 Taurus gets 17/26 on E10 and 12/19 on E85. The wagon gets 1 MPG less on highway. If you were driving 100% city on E85 then 12 MPG is exactly what you should get. The lower your city MPG the more the city MPG detracts from the highway mileage. Do you have any pure highway MPG numbers? If it makes you feel any better my 1993 Buick Roadmaster with the Chevy 5.7L gets better MPG than your ailing Taurus.

The air flow, noise, and smell of the exhaust is more important than the sound of the engine. Cover the exhaust with your hand then listen to the exhaust. If the exhaust puffs and pops then the cylinders are unbalanced. The exhaust of an engine in excellent shape flows smooth like it is coming from a compressor tank.

The ECT and IAT are easy to check. After sitting overnight each sensor should read the same as any nearby shaded thermometer. -40*C is fine if you're in Alaska. After running a while the ECT should be close to the factory specified thermostat. The recommended thermostat for a 2000 Ford Taurus V6 3.0L DOHC is 192*F.

For TPS there is usually another TPS value that shows 0%-100%. So long as it goes to those extremes and doesn't jump around as you press the pedal slowly then the TPS is fine.

If the loop closes and the oxygen sensor crosses 0.450v then the MAF should be fine. A 0 LTFT is a really good sign that your sensors are in good shape.

Can you do a compression check?