Need help? Post here. [Archive]

rv4jesus

06-26-2007, 09:18 PM

Thanks to Wayne and you all for your advice.

I can see that getting better gas mileage isn't impossible, nor is it always easy. I only have 804 miles on my Honda Fit with mileage per tank ranging from 27 to 35 mpg, numbers vary mostly due to how high the tank is filled I think. My problem is that most of my driving is short trips around the NW suburbs of Chicago doing deliveries and the like. Are there any special tricks you suggest for situations like mine? I understand the basics: light foot, gliding when possible, shutting it off instead of idling, letting it warm up while running easy, combining trips, doing the long trip first to warm the engine up. What else can I do within reason? Today I got 36 mpg over multiple errands of about 4 miles each for a total of only about 15 miles. It is hard to improve when I don't drive very far, but driving less is one of my goals.

I just got a SGII which I really like. It makes it possible to see what I am doing to the gas mileage. I am reading the water temp, MPG, Throttle pressure and engine load. These seem to be most relevant for my driving. I also set the SGII up for Hybrid type since I sometimes glide with the engine off.

My goal is an average of 40 mpg. Thanks again for your help.

Rick

xcel

06-26-2007, 10:12 PM

Hi RV4Jesus:

___Your practically just down the street and with a Fit, I think a clinic might help? I am headed to Detroit for an Automotive event later this week but maybe an afternoon or weekend after the fourth if you are interested? Let me know.

___Good Luck

___Wayne

caffinedean

07-28-2007, 11:01 AM

I am also new to forums.

I have not made any changes to my Highlander 07 hybrid (though I plan to check tire pressure today:cool:

I can get 28 to 30mpg most driving in town around 30-50 mph.....I do glide a lot, trying not to kick on the gas motor and long slow braking, as the braking system charges the electric.

Any tips are greatly appreciated!

elaine casanova

08-14-2007, 04:59 PM

Hello.

is this how it works?

would like to introduce other fuel, energy, environmental saving products etc.

casanova

xcel

08-14-2007, 05:41 PM

Hi Elaine:

___Welcome to CleanMPG!

___We discuss topics ranging from automobiles to the environment but direct marketing of products would be frowned upon at best and removed at worst.

___Good Luck

___Wayne

frijoe

08-22-2007, 01:52 PM

Hi guys,
thanks for the priviledge for being in your circle.

tbaleno

08-22-2007, 01:57 PM

Circle?

Anyway, welcome to CleasnMPG. What is your commute like? What milage are you currently getting?

xcel

08-22-2007, 03:04 PM

Hi Frijoe:

___Welcome to CleanMPG and I look forward to hearing form you! Joining our circle is as easy as saying hello around these parts so hello and welcome again :)

___Good Luck

___Wayne

adel_Altima

08-25-2007, 12:26 PM

Hi everybody,

I'm a newbie to hypermiling, and as you can probably guess, my car is a Nissan Altima - it's 2001 and it's an automatic. The car is in good overall condition, but my alignment is bad. I was wondering how much of an effect the alignment would cause. I'm pretty sure it's my front alignment, because we recently took it to a body shop for the back alignment to be adjusted.

Another question I have is about whether it's advisable to use FAS with my car. My younger brother who knows more about hypermiling than me was trying to tell me it's bad to shift to neutral while driving in my car. He said that doing that would be OK if the car could be flat-towed. My car is front wheel drive, and in the manual it says that when towing it should be towed with the front wheels lifted, so I was wondering if this means I should avoid shifting to neutral.

One last question - how much of an effect does reducing weight in the car have on fuel economy? My car weighs about 3000 lbs, and I was considering taking out the back seats and possibly door panels.

Thanks for all the great tips

Right Lane Cruiser

08-27-2007, 08:49 AM

Hi, Adel!! It sounds as though you cannot use FAS in your car, but that is different than shifting to neutral. FASing an automatic involves shifting to neutral, then keying the car off followed by putting the key back in the ACC position. You can still put the car into neutral while the car is moving if you like and it will not hurt the transmission as long as the engine remains on.

Putting the car in neutral allows to you "glide" along while using minimal (idling) gasoline. For reasonable speeds this can result in instantaneous mpg readings of 100+ -- a significant amount of coasting in this manner lowers your average fuel consumption substantially and will pull your mpg numbers up a lot if used correctly.

If you would like to try that you'll need to test it first to see if the engine revs up while you are moving and the car is in neutral. If it won't drop down to idling RPM you won't be able to use this method.

Does your car have a tachometer so you can see what RPM it is running? If not, a ScanGauge can help with that as one of the readouts it shows is RPM. Even if you do have a tach I would still strongly recommend a ScanGauge to help you improve your mileage if you want to get serious about it. You can find a link to buy one at the left of every page on this site -- it has a picture of the red and black retail box for the gauge so it is easy to spot. :)

At any rate, shifting to neutral is the easy part. When you need to reengage the transmission you'll need to do something called "rev matching" before you shift back into D. To do this you'll need to note the RPM of the engine when you are traveling at the speed you'll be reengaging at. So if you want to coast and then need to reengage at say 20mph, you'll need to know what RPM the engine runs when traveling at that speed. To rev match you need to GENTLY apply the gas pedal until the engine RPM reaches that level you know it should be at, then shift to D. This ensures that the transmission gears and the engine are already spinning at the same speed and will avoid bad stresses on the transmission/engine. The higher the speed at which you do this the more critical this process is. Ideally you won't feel anything at all when you shift to D -- this is what you want to strive for.

To get a feel for this process I recommend testing how much pressure on the gas pedal it takes to rev your engine to a given RPM while you are STOPPED somewhere and the car is in neutral. It will take a lot less pressure than when you are driving because the engine has no load on it -- it isn't trying to move anything so it will rev VERY easily.

I know this sounds intimidating but with some practice it will become second nature and you'll be able to use neutral glides whenever you like! By the way, we refer to that as NICE ON around her.

As for the weight, you have to get at least 100lbs of weight reduction to see much difference and you'll need to balance weight reduction with utility. Driving technique can often seriously outperform any casual weight reduction you might normally do. I would guess that the back seat removal would be noticeable but for me it hasn't been worth it.

Before you try anything else though I would recommend reading the article "Beating the EPA - The Why’s and how to Hypermile." which can be found on the home page of this site in the right column (at the top of the articles, in fact!) There are a lot of techniques to use without ever shifting out of D that can make a very nice dent in your fuel usage. Have a look and see what can be used for your particular driving conditions.

Once again, welcome to you! I hope you stay around and start posting numbers here -- it is much easier to help when we have an idea of how your setup is performing and what kind of driving environment you have to deal with.

adel_Altima

08-27-2007, 01:05 PM

Thanks a lot for all the info and help. My car does have a tachometer, and I know that's an important tool to help with FE (although after checking out the ScanGauge I'm really impressed with it and can see how much more useful it is than the standard tach- I'm going to start saving for that). And I'm also going to go ahead and try to determine how much gas it takes to get the tach up to 1500, 1750, 2000, etc. RPMs, and then try to work on the NICE ON technique. I know I still a lot more to learn about hypermiling, though, so I'll try to post my data on here and read & ask questions in the forums more. I'm going to see if I can compete with my brother's MPGs - he drives a Focus SVT :)

Thanks again

Right Lane Cruiser

08-27-2007, 01:09 PM

You are very welcome, Adel! Keep us updated and we'll do our best to help you in your quest. :)

desdemona

08-27-2007, 08:28 PM

NICE-on is fun! You can really get nice mileage nos. (If you had a ScanGauge you can actually see them) of 100, and on the highway I have gotten as high as 300 for about a milisecond. I still find it a little tricky to match the rpm but that doesn't mean you can't try it anyway.

When you do this, if you see a red light that you are going to get stopped at, put the car back in drive. Drive applies an "engine brake" that helps slow the car down.

I live in NM and there are lots of hills. I can often NICE-on for about a mile or so. (Of course, there are hills going UP the other way. Can't have everything I guess. :-))

I would suggest you try it with little traffic and so on the first few times. I found it just a little bit scary at first. Your car will feel a lot "lighter" and you won't be used to it.

--des

Seattlehybridcivic

08-29-2007, 10:02 AM

Im not sure if im posting this correctly. I drive an 'o6 Civic hybrid with Nav and love it. We previously had an '03 and did pretty well with it but it did seem to have a bug in the trans, when we traded it in , the dealer tried to lower price but we explained we had it in their shop several times with complaints of "clunking" sound and a bit lower mpg, they decided to be a fair dealer and gave us more than what we expected for a 03 with 80,000 miles..we ranged around 38-43, driving from Lake Stevens to Bothell(seattle/ eastside) every day..of course better than the Jeep cherokee we had traded in! Now the '06 we are getting 40-46 depending on if we use a/c and have our foot in it. Glad to see some "hypermiling" info that will help us out!

eijikikimaru

09-25-2007, 09:00 PM

Hello all~

sheri_r

10-01-2007, 12:17 PM

New to forum and very excited to do much better than my current 48 mpg in my 2006 Prius. My cummute is 60mi round trip on wide open freeways. ( I drive off hours ) I have increased my tire presure to 44 psi, air filter is new, oil is changed and I'm trying to learn the pulse and glide but admit since I started trying I haven't seen a great improvment yet. I sure could use some help from this innovative group. Thank you in advance.

Robert Lastick

10-03-2007, 08:34 AM

Good Morning,

Below please find my Saturn's MPG history. My commute is 88.6 miles round trip from Cortland Il. to Rockford, Il. Most of it is rural roads. There is city driving at both ends in Rockford and thru Dekalb to Cortland. Lots of corn!

Delete Add Edit Time Period Driving Conditions MPG Error
Check Notes
10 %City, 90% Highway
06/20/2007 to 06/23/2007 10% 90% 57.6 2nd Highest MPG to date
07/05/2007 to 07/07/2007 10% 90% 49.6 Spring Green - Wisconsin hills
07/07/2007 to 07/09/2007 10% 90% 51.3 Back from S.G. - better on hills.
07/09/2007 to 07/12/2007 10% 90% 52.1 Regular daily commute.
07/12/2007 to 07/17/2007 10% 90% 53.6 Weekend in town driving.
07/17/2007 to 07/20/2007 10% 90% 51.8 Regular daily commute.
07/20/2007 to 07/25/2007 10% 90% 58.7 Highest MPG to date
07/25/2007 to 07/30/2007 10% 90% 50.4 More in town driving
07/25/2007 to 08/02/2007 10% 90% 53.2 In town driving + A/C
08/02/2007 to 08/05/2007 10% 90% 51.8 In town driving + A/C
08/05/2007 to 08/08/2007 10% 90% 53.0 A/C + some in town
08/08/2007 to 08/13/2007 10% 90% 53.2 55+A/C+in town mileage
08/13/2007 to 08/17/2007 10% 90% 57.2 55+A/C+in town mileage
08/17/2007 to 08/23/2007 10% 90% 54.4 55+A/C+in town mileage
08/23/2007 to 08/29/2007 10% 90% 54.4 A/C + some in town
08/29/2007 to 09/11/2007 10% 90% 53.0 Regular daily commute.
09/11/2007 to 09/14/2007 10% 90% 54.7 Regular daily commute.
09/14/2007 to 09/19/2007 10% 90% 60.5 Highest MPG to date. New commute route.
09/19/2007 to 09/27/2007 10% 90% 53.9 Regular daily commute.
09/27/2007 to 10/02/2007 10% 90% 57.9 Regular daily commute

Let me know if I can post this here on your site.

Thank You.

Bob.

Right Lane Cruiser

10-03-2007, 09:19 AM

Bob, nice numbers!! Please add your vehicle to the mileage logs (you can find the link in the green column at the upper left of all pages on this site) and enter your tank data there.

I also encourage you to post in the Daily Grind section of the Forums. We have a running thread for each week and we relate the successes, issues, etc that are encountered in our everyday driving there.

Have you acquired a ScanGauge yet? If not, I highly recommend one!! Most people find that their numbers go up substantially once they are able to see the immediate effects of different techniques in real time. If you click on the banner in my signature you can see a graph of my mileage and it is pretty easy to pick out when I started using more advanced techniques and got a ScanGauge. :)

Snowy_Jeep

10-04-2007, 02:24 PM

:p Well, I drive our '99 Jeep Cherokee (automatic tranny, 4L V6 with 4WD) about 30 miles each way to work and home. This includes a stop to pick up/drop off one child or the other. I start out on rural back roads, travel onto an interstate, then hit the suburb where I work, and have stop and go thanks to lovely traffic lights. In heavy traffic. And we get lake effect snow, so that's another fun twist.
The hubby does almost the same thing with our 1995 straight 6 4.0L F150 manual 5 speed tranny pickup truck. He goes farther off the interstate to get to work.
I DO know both of us have to learn to drive without brakes.
I do not idle the truck unless using the remote starter in the icy weather so I can scrape the windows off a little easier. It runs maybe 5 minutes, while I don hat, coat, scarf, gloves, etc. and trudge out to the Jeep.

timjb31

11-30-2007, 03:02 PM

Being an auto enthusiast I love performance, but mpg is an important measure of overall vehicle "performance".

So my VW Passat V6 GLX stick (5M), rated 20/29; when new used to get 25 mpg driving normal (not maximizing efficiency). A couple months later I started pumping the tires way up (36-38psi yields a failrly harsh ride without independent rear suspension!). Also coasting in neutral on down slopes, turning engine off at lights, etc. Mileage wen tup to 30-34mpg depending on driving mix. Some highway routes I got close to 40mpg (about 1000 foot elevation drop over 60 miles). Fortunately is has a digital instantaneous MPG readout plus 2 average MPG registers (one resets after key is off for 2 hours). Then I replaced the 205/55HR16 economy tires with sport tuned 225/50VR16s, which handle 100 times better, but MPG dropped 10% across the board (just from changing tires!). Add in the oxygenated/RFG crap which drops mpg another 5-10% and I am only averaging 30mpg, even lower in cold months. I do mostly suburban driving, a few lights, go into the city about once a week, usually no more than 5-10mh over the posted limit even though most people are 20-30mph over the limit.

Just bought a 2003 BMW 530i stick (5M), rated 21/30. Driving it home from TX to MD averaging about 70-80mph, I still got 30+ mpg including mountains. Due to 100s of cops in VA I could obnly do about 70-75mph and got 33+ mpg! Here is my dilemma. Both cars (and my old 95 Maxima stick) were all geared to turn about 2300-2450 revs per mile in top gear, which IMO is way too high for a car with good torque. I am not adverse to downshift when I need more power. The Bimmer has a 2.93 rear axle ratio and 1:1 5th gear. Too much toruble to change the tranny for a 6 speed unit from a V8 model (2.82:1 ratio). I really want to replace the rear with a 2.3 or 2.5, but I can't find one. If I could find a shop that could get or make new gear(s) for the rear I have now, and I spent $1500, it would take me roughly 50-80K miles to break even (and I woiudl be lowering engine wear by about 30%). I would like to get revs down to about 1800-1900 per mile. First gear now is so low that it is jerky if one is not meticulous with the clutch, and going back and forth between the VW & Bimmer is counter-productive in that regard. But I don't want to make 1st gear so tall that it is easy to stall if not slipping the clutch a lot.

Any thoughts about changing the gearing?

TJ in MD

Daox

11-30-2007, 03:21 PM

Lower RPM should return greater fuel effeciency due to less friction. To maintain constant horsepower output at a lower RPM requires more throttle. More throttle reduces pumping losses as the engine doesn't have to fight against as much vacuum (air throttled engines only). As long as the engine is capable of providing enough horsepower at the RPM/speed you want to cruise at, you should gain effeciency. Thats my take on it. I may be missing something, but thats how I see it from an engine standpoint.

As far as custom gearing... I'd be careful. Gearing isn't super complex, but drivetrains are highly engineered. Most likely you'd need to have a new gear made, but it would also need to be heat treated to handle the torque output. Heat treating makes the alloy of the gear very important, and this all adds complexity to it. Maybe you know this already, maybe not. Just letting you know.

LYLUVLY

12-21-2007, 01:30 PM

It's there. Maybe the image hasn't been refreshed on your comptuer.
Where is the URL to post my mileage log, such as miles traveled, gallons purchased, etc.
I have clicked all I can clicked, but I cannot find a chart to start recording my mpg.
If possible, can you email me the url, b/c I dont think I can find THIS page next time I come back. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

xcel

12-21-2007, 02:15 PM

Hi Lyluvly:

___Top of the page on the right. The large font link labeled Mileage Logs. Create your vehicle by filling in the form provided. Once you have created said vehicle, add a tank and your mileage sig is created automatically. Place the [img] tag(s) around the url ending in .png and place it in your sig via the UserCP.

___If you have trouble, upload your tanks and I can manually insert your sig afterwards :)

___Good Luck

___Wayne

itbarthur4u

03-12-2008, 04:49 AM

Hi I'm new here. I drive a 95 Ford Ranger used frequently to haul things like firewood and furniture for short urban moves. I also must use this vehicle to commute about 2mi. 2 or 3 times a week. I averaged 17 MPG over the last 8 fill ups. That should be close to the Urban EPA considering my heavy City usage, hauling and winter weather.

FrJohn

03-12-2008, 08:12 AM

itbarthur4uHi I'm new here. I drive a 95 Ford Ranger used frequently to haul things like firewood and furniture for short urban moves. I also must use this vehicle to commute about 2mi. 2 or 3 times a week. I averaged 17 MPG over the last 8 fill ups. That should be close to the Urban EPA considering my heavy City usage, hauling and winter weather.Good morning to you, itbarthur4u, and welcome to the forums! I drove a Ford Ranger years ago, and enjoyed it immensely. Remember that the goal of hypermiling is to beat the EPA average for your vehicle. So, while you may not post any 40-50 MPG tanks, you can certainly improve on things. Pump those tires up to the maximum limit on the sidewalls and read xcel's article on the How's and Why of Hypermiling.

Please, post lots, ask lots of questions, and allow us to help you get all you can out of that Ranger.

Pax,

Fr. John

ellendanis

03-12-2008, 06:00 PM

Hello - girlie girl newbie here.

I just paid 3.07/gal for gas - and I am FREAKING OUT!

I have a 2008 Ford Escape (not hybrid). I commute 30 miles round trip to work - which takes about 25 minutes. My commute to work has a few curves and is mostly flat. I have one small hill each way that I can glide. I don't quite understand all the instructions in the hypermiler thread right now - I will go back over it at a later date. Right now, I have a few questions:

I have been going to the gym 3 or 4 times a week during my lunch hour - a little over 4 miles each way. Would it be better to go to the gym before work and then back track to my work location? (I will pass work location on the way to gym and add 6+miles to the morning commute). I am at the gym for about 1 hour.

I just read about tire pressure maintenance - should I do this once a week? every day? once a month?

My owner's manual says to use SAE 5W-20 oil for best fuel economy - and oil additives can lead to damage --- any comments?

Has anyone here tried adding small amounts of acetone to the gas tank when filling up? What were your results?

I know that A/C or the windows down will decrease my mpg - but which is the best option? I live in north Texas - the summers bring 109 degrees with 92% humidity. There is no way that I can make the trip home without SOMETHING! Also, would the moonroof be better than the side windows?

That's all that I can think of for now - thanks in advance!
Ellen

kngkeith

03-12-2008, 07:22 PM

Welcome Ellendanis:)
- Normally it's best to consolidate trips (work commute, gym) as a warmed engine is more efficient. The cold start at lunch time, plus the extra trip into the work parking lot uses additional gas. Another detail affecting mileage include the volume of traffic if you commute an hour earlier vs lunch time. The issue is which schedule uses the less fuel overall. Some here would suggest keeping a bicycle at work for the short ride to the gym.
-Tire pressure readings weekly. Buy a good quality tire pressure gauge (don't rely on the gas station gauges). Gauges lose accuracy fairly easy- be careful not to drop it or throw it back in the car when done using it.
-Oil- General consensus here is to use synthetic oil. I use the Toyota recommended 5w30 in my Highlander, but many here legitimately argue the merits of using 0w20, though your dealer may disagree. Oil additives are a waste.
-Acetone- same as oil additives, total waste.
-AC vs windows down vs moonroof open. Here is where the scangauge is helpful. AC may be more economical at high speeds (over 55 mph), windows down at low speeds. Every car is different.

Be sure to track your fuel consumption carefully to watch your progress. Great to have you!

Keith

itbarthur4u

03-13-2008, 10:56 PM

I am interested in learning more about inflating tires beyond the recommended maximum pressure on the side wall. I picked up inflating to the max in the early 80s. I do see how over inflating could reduce rolling resistance even further and might extend tread life since my tires tend to wear out on the edges first. But it does cause a stiffer ride. Also I wonder what problems this might cause when a truck is fully loaded.

Could the stiffer ride be a factor in needing to replace the rear spring shackles and hangers. OTOH I hear this is a common problem with Rangers in general. The rear spring hangers tend to rust and break. These parts may need extra strength or rust protection. I wonder if they could be covered with some sort of epoxy coating to prevent rust.

One person stated that over inflating tires may even improve handling in some cases. Seems like I remember Ford saying a certain problem with tire failure and roll overs was due to inflating above the pressure recommended. Or was that just an excuse cooked up by their spin meisters? As I recall that problem was most common in 4wd trucks and Explorers with tall suspensions and high ground clearance.

I have also heard that over inflation can result in belt damage when hitting a pot hole or debris on the road.

I have much to learn so I am just asking questions.

kngkeith

03-14-2008, 08:16 AM

Good questions itbarthur4u-
Since the highly inflated tires have less sidewall flex, the suspension will have to do more work. Enough to prematurely wear? Depends on load, road, and driver conditions. Unless you are extremely abusive to your truck- I would guess no.

Didn't know that Ford pegged overinflation as a rollover issue.

In big trucks (like semis) that run tires near maximum load capacity, belt damage due to curb hits, potholes, etc, is an issue. The tires don't fail immediately, but a blowout or tread separation is in the near future. Most drivers here don't put much weight on their tires, so overinflation is a non-issue. However- if you do max out the weight carrying ability of the tires AND have to drive over impact type bumps (potholes,etc), running at the tire manufacturer's max recommended pressure is probably best. Overinflation won't allow the belts to absorb the hit.

Keith

xcel

03-14-2008, 11:11 AM

Hi Itbarthur4u:

___Welcome to CleanMPG!

___To go along with what Keith added, higher inflation pressures do cause stiffer ride or higher NVH. The higher the load, the higher your pressures should be as well. My own Ranger has been doing great for the last 5 years at 50 + in the Conti’s with at least another 5 years of life left and I too haul a lot of stuff. Ford’s problem with the Explorer was under inflation, not over-inflation.

http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/2/Ranger_hauling_mulch.jpg
How about a ton of mulch in the 4-banger w/ a 5-speed ;)

http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/500/WAYNE_S_FLORIDA_TRIP_0322.JPG
Florida trip to help bring my aunt back up North.

___Finally, take your time. With people like Keith to help, you will be picking up your Ranger’s FE fast without to much work other than some practice and having some fun in the process ;)

___Good Luck

___Wayne

ellendanis

03-14-2008, 11:45 AM

Welcome Ellendanis:)
- Normally it's best to consolidate trips (work commute, gym) as a warmed engine is more efficient . . . . Some here would suggest keeping a bicycle at work for the short ride to the gym.

Something to think about - if I ride my bike at lunch every day - I wouldn't need to go to the gym!

Here is where the scangauge is helpful.

I have been reading about the ScanGuage - not sure if I will be able to install or not - are the instructions pretty clear and concise?

Be sure to track your fuel consumption carefully to watch your progress.

On Monday - according to my vehicle display, my mpg was 22.3 (see why I'm desperate?) and now it's 22.6. This is just from cleaning out the cargo area, implementing anticipatory driving and coasting. I plan on having the luggage rack removed soon. I will be at the gas station on Wednesday and will check tire pressure then. I am going to fill up air to the number specified on the tires - not the door, right?

Great to have you!

Keith
Thanks for the warm welcome and the prompt response!

Ellen

kngkeith

03-15-2008, 12:03 AM

Yes, the number on the tire. Just so you know, the ride will feel harsh and you won't like it, but since your desperate...:).
The Scangauge plugs into your OBDII port, usually located to the left under the steering column. Very easy. The hardest part is figuring out where to mount it (comes with double sided tape) and run the excess cord. Calibrating it takes a tank or two. The gauge is great because it gives immediate feedback about your behavior and its effect on fe.

Keith

itbarthur4u

03-16-2008, 12:43 PM

I may not have an Odbii port on my 95 Ranger. I also notice that the EPA mpg estimate has improved for the ICE Ranger over the last 10 years. Is it possible to upgrade some of the systems on my truck to get better mpg? I do replace the air filter at least once a year and gently tap the dust out of it every 4-6 monthes. That does seem to help a little.

Arthur

kngkeith

03-16-2008, 02:46 PM

Hi itbarthur4u-
Probably not- I believe Ford was one of those companies playing games with their computer ports to keep their dealer service shops busy- prompting the mandated standardization in '96.

Regarding mods: Beyond inflating tires and changing air filter, the best ROI may be switching to a lighter weight synthetic motor oil on your next change. Synthetic (not synthetic blend) oil maintains its properties better and is less resistant, especially in cold. Some use 0w20, but that may be too light for your application. Others will know better than me.

The next step is a grill/radiator block. Your short commute is a gas mileage (and engine) killer. The engine never fully warms up. If you have a temp gauge you may play around with a block in the summer since the commute is so short. Otherwise listen for the fan to kick on- then you know you have to open the block up a bit.

Keep the tailgate closed. A tonneau cover might help. A regular cap usually won't. But since you don't do much high speed driving I wouldn't worry about it. The best mod over your truck bed (if you have to do something:)) is to create something with a slope, like a hatchback.

Look for Low Rolling Resistance (LRR) for your next replacement.

All these changes will give slight improvements. Most significant change occurs with changed driver behavior. Adapt one technique at a time, track mileage, rejoice.

Keith

ellendanis

03-20-2008, 08:24 AM

Yes, the number on the tire. Just so you know, the ride will feel harsh and you won't like it, but since your desperate...:).

Okay - the psi number on the tires is 44. On, Monday morning I pumped them up to 40 when I stopped for gas. I had the tires rotated 2 weeks ago and one of them was only 29! :mad:

Monday morning, my mpg went up .1 on the way into work, another .1 on the way home from work with no real distinction in handling. I do feel like I am sitting higher and since I am only 5'2" - that's a plus! We had rain, winds and thunderstorms all day Tuesday - my mpg didn't go up but it didn't go down either. Then, I noticed this morning that I am up another .1! For anyone keeping count - I am now up to 22.9 mpg on my 30 mile city commute in my Ford Escape (not hybrid) - that's a 1/2 mile per gallon improvement since I joined this site! :)

I will pump the tires up to 42psi next week - dare-devil living on the edge, huh? I read where one poster has his at 60psi - just don't think I can do that . . . yet anyway.

The mornings here have been quite cool - am I correct in expecting my mpg to go up some in warmer weather?

The Scangauge plugs into your OBDII port, usually located to the left under the steering column. Very easy. The hardest part is figuring out where to mount it (comes with double sided tape) and run the excess cord. Calibrating it takes a tank or two. The gauge is great because it gives immediate feedback about your behavior and its effect on fe.

Keith

I looked at the ScanGuage website and have located my OBDII port and have a plan for mounting. Does the calibration take any special tools that don't come with the unit? I have a basic homeowner's toolbox - just wondering if I need to pick up anything else.

I think I am first in line for the next ScanGuage group buy - I am eager to get feedback on window vs. moon roof vs. AC for my drive.

Thanks for your help!
Ellen

Right Lane Cruiser

03-20-2008, 08:30 AM

The ScanGauge does not require any tools to install and calibrate -- other than your fingers. ;)

Jeff (PsyShack) did some testing a while back and noted a severe drop in efficiency when the moon roof was open at speed -- worse than the windows if I remember correctly. If you have to use the AC, pulse it when you are gliding in neutral or at least when driving downhill and turn it off when the cabin cools down a bit. The fan will continue to blow slowly warming air and when you can't stand it anymore, turn it on for another brief episode to cool the environment again. Doing this will help minimize the hit of AC.

korbynlehr

03-24-2008, 11:22 AM

Can someone guide me to a "legend" of the techniques? In the mielage log it has like a-b-c- and so on.

Right Lane Cruiser

03-24-2008, 11:45 AM

Click on one of the vehicles and then scroll to the very bottom of the page. :)

korbynlehr

03-24-2008, 12:24 PM

Thanks for the information

ellendanis

03-24-2008, 01:03 PM

Guess what, guess what?

I had to make a road trip yesterday - most of it was highway - got my mpg up to 23.4! (That is 1.2 mpg improvement in 3 weeks!)
:Banane25:

The temp was very mild early on - no air or AC needed. Later in the afternoon, I opened the moonroof about 5 or 6 inches (less than 1/3 of the way open) for about 15 miles and the mpg still went up the last .1!

My morning commute and lunch errands have been completed and I am still showing 23.4 mpg - wonder if it will go back down now that I am doing city miles again . . . :confused:

I will be adding a couple more psi to my tires in the morning - sure would be nice to bump up over the quoted 24 (city) mpg - then, I could call myself a hypermiler too! (Couldn't I? Or does it have to be by a certain percent over the quoted ratings?)

Ellen
----------
2008 Ford Escape

kngkeith

03-25-2008, 11:05 PM

Hi Ellen-
Good to the mpg's moving in the right direction:)

I'm curious to know what sort of driving style/technique changes you have tried (slower speed, different rates of acceleration, DWB, DWL)? Did you make the leap and get a scanguage yet?

Keith

ellendanis

03-27-2008, 07:07 PM

I'm curious to know what sort of driving style/technique changes you have tried (slower speed, different rates of acceleration, DWB, DWL)? Did you make the leap and get a scanguage yet?

Keith

Hello again!
So far, I am/have -
- driving slower --- about 9 miles of my 15 mile trip is posted 55 or 60. Morning traffic is usually 45 to 55 with lots of stop and go. I can go 43 - 47 at 1500rpm so that is where I set the cruise control (no 'sign language' so far by the few people that have passed me). I tap the brake (and coast) waaaaaaaaay away from lights or traffic slow downs and the majority of times I don't lose too much speed and seldom have to stop. The evening traffic moves closer to posted speeds - I still set my cruise control at 43 - 47 and use the same coasting techniques. I have a lot more people pass me on the way home and I expect to see my picture in the "Jerk of the Day" gallery at any time (I avoid eye contact). The rest of my commute is 35mph and I am able to travel at the posted speed and stay at 1500rpm or less. There are several lights in this part of the trip and I don't have them all figured out yet . . . most of the time I don't end up needing to come to a full stop - today, I got caught by 3 of them.
- no cargo --- I used to kinda forget about 'stuff' in the cargo area and just tote everything inside when I washed the car each week. Any 'stuff' is removed daily now.
- changed my route --- my previous route was about 2 miles shorter but, I had 3 left hand turns (2 of which are without lights/signs) and 4 stop signs.
- aired up my tires --- I pumped my tires up to 40psi last week and 42psi this week - I'm going up to 44psi (tire max) next week and will check every week when I get gas. I can't tell any difference in ride quality or handling - I do feel like I am sitting higher off the ground which I like.
- potential parking --- I am thinking ahead about where I need to park to make the best exit. I changed my parking at work to the street - it is slightly downhill to boot! And, I don't even start the car until I am clear to pull out.
- no AC --- the weather here is quite mild now. On the few mornings that were chilly - I wore a sweater (or two) and put a beach towel over my legs. The real trick is: trying not to breathe so that I don't fog up the windshield! On the warm days, I open the moonroof about 1/3 of the way for brief intervals. I am trying to remember to crack the moonroof and windows at lunch so that the vehicle doesn't get as hot for the trek home. There is no shade to be found except in the lot - no pull through parking. It may be worth it in the heat of summer though.
- changed lifestyle --- I allow myself ONE day a week to run errands/eat out/go to the gym at lunch. Otherwise, I walk during my lunch hour. If I HAVE to do an errand on another day - I do it before or after work.
- slowed my acceleration --- no more 'jack rabbit' starts. I ease on the gas (shoeless, of course) and strive to get to 35mph smoothly yet quickly so that my rpm's drop from 2000 to 1500 as soon as possible. If I am on a segment where I am able to travel faster, I do the same thing to get up to 43-47 mph and settle back in at 1500 rpm again.
- cruise control --- I use it all the time now - before, didn't think it was worth it on my in town commute.
- dwb (or anticipatory driving) --- ALL THE TIME! Sometimes, I have a bit of a headache when I arrive because I have been concentrating so hard . . . no more talking on the phone, putting on make-up, or checking my day timer!
- engine off --- when I do have to come to a full stop, I turn the engine off. I tried turning the engine off and coasting to stops but it freaks me out too much when the brakes and steering stiffen up. :eek: I don't know that I should be doing that in my auto transmission anyway. A couple of times the light went green on me and I had to come to a full stop, put it in park and turn the engine on again - seems like that's just asking to be rear-ended. I suppose I need to try the shift to neutral thing (NICE?) - I am concerned about my transmission and damage . . . what do you think? And, how can I tell before it's too late?

I don't have a ScanGuage . . . yet. I will join in on the next group buy. I really would like to get at least a few more mpg - one other poster here has a 2007 Escape and is starting out with 30mpg! The ScanGuage should answer some of my techinique questions. I am curious about drafting . . . it's difficult to do that if I am DWB - does it make any difference at the speeds I travel each day . . . and just how big of a vehicle does it need to be for me to see a difference . . . we'll see!

Opinions and additional tips are welcome,
Ellen

kngkeith

03-27-2008, 09:55 PM

Ellen-
Wow- many changes that should begin to add up in your favor.

Ditch the cruise control- especially when you get the Scangauge. I don't know how hilly the terrain is on your commute, but you might be surprised by how much fuel is consumed by the cruise maintaining a certain speed. We like to talk about "target" speed. That's the speed you want to average. Try DWL- driving with load, for the whole trip. Set the scangauge to show you TPS- throttle position sensor- and lock in on a number that maintains a speed that is efficient in fuel use and time. You will notice a speed variance of 10 mph or more, depending on the terrain.

Don't turn off your engine when coasting. And don't turn off the car unless you think you'll be sitting longer than 10-15 seconds. If you do turn it off, use neutral when starting the car at a light as you're only one notch away from drive.

There's more, but let's not get overwhelmed.
Keith

ellendanis

04-02-2008, 10:42 AM

Thanks for the tip about being in neutral when I turn off the engine at lights.

An interesting thing is happening with my mpg now. Yesterday, I went in for an oil change. When I pulled out of the parking lot and proceeded back to work, I noticed that the mpg readout would vary from extremely low number to very high number (8.5mpg to 28.8 mpg). Over the course of my trip back to work (7 miles or so) the low number kept getting higher and the high number kept getting lower. I figure that my system was just getting 're-calibrated' with the new oil and fluids. The mpg read out continued the same swings on my trek home (although not as drastic) and settled in at 26.0 when I parked for the evening.

On my segment to work this morning, the mpg swings continued but were even less drastic than last night (24.7 to 26.4). I am guessing that my mpg will settle in around 25 mpg. Is it possible that my FE can go up from 23.7 to 25ish just by changing my oil? I am just under 11K miles so, the oil change was early compared to my manual (it says change at 15K). My 'change oil' light came on late last week ("4% oil life - change soon!") so, I went ahead. Maybe I should've changed it at 10K ...

Ellen

JusBringIt

04-02-2008, 12:39 PM

Hi ellen, it is possible to gain better mileage from changing your oil, as for your fas, what I do is put the car in neutral, turn the key to acc for about 2 seconds maybe a bit longer as my car will restart, then turn it back to on to continue calculating my mileage. auto cars can start in neutral so just start it, let the rpms drop a little bit, then put it in drive.

as for your mpg readout varying, if that doesnt happen all the time, it would be from the oil change which the engine is now reading a different viscosity, so the workload has less friction on your ICE. It may happen when you're accelerating also. and dont worry, if you are at 23.6, you will be able to get up to 30 soon with more practice, I've been improving...and btw, i did start out at about 20-21mpg, 24 on a good highway trip. right now im at about 29..or better :D i have to go get gas today, so i'll see what my improvement is over my last tank of about 28.9 mpg.

kngkeith

04-02-2008, 09:56 PM

Hi Ellen-
Adding to JusBringIt's comments.

I'm guessing the mechanics reset you mpg reader, so you were starting over again. The more you drove, the more your reading averaged out. Which brings to mind- have you been watching your mpg improve on your trip computer without resetting your trip computer? If so, you have been trying to raise an average set with 5000? or more miles of non-hypermiling.

The oil will make a difference if you went from a conventional oil to a synthetic oil, and/or you went to a lighter viscosity.
Other variables that improve mpg- your engine has recently moved past its break in period. Temperatures are rising.

I bet the 25 mpg is legitimate, and indicates an increasing skill level.

Keith

jwh1276

04-02-2008, 10:59 PM

Newbie question:

How do you insert your individual mileage stats for your 'signature' at the bottom of each post?

warthog1984

04-02-2008, 11:18 PM

Newbie question:

How do you insert your individual mileage stats for your 'signature' at the bottom of each post?

Go to the mileage log. After you start inputting tanks, there will be a banner with stats on it at the bottom. Right-click and select Properties. Copy the URL under "Location". Go to User CP. Click Edit Signature. Go to Upload Picture. Paste the URL you copied previously. Click Save Signature. Then click "Insert Signature Picture". Then just wait for the change to update (may take a few minutes).

If you want a time history, put "his" in the URL immediatly before the last set of numbers.

xcel

04-02-2008, 11:18 PM

Hi Jwh1276:

___On your next post, your new mileage sig should show up.

___You can copy your car's sig and surround it with img tags, than place in your sig section of your User CP. If you look in your User CP now, your sig should show up in the box exactly as described.

___Good Luck

___Wayne

some_other_dave

04-03-2008, 04:13 PM

If turning the engine off while coasting (turn the key back on again!!) makes you nervous, don't do it. There's nothing that says you have to use all or any specific techniques here, and this activity is supposed to help you relax and enjoy the drive, not give you heartburn!

Check your owner's manual, if it says your car can be "flat towed" (towed with all four wheels on the ground), then you won't damage your transmission by coasting with the engine off.

You can put the transmission in neutral when coasting (N-ICE On), which will generally give you longer coasting distances than leaving it in gear. This will not hurt the transmission at all. Give a little "blip" to the throttle right as you're starting to move the lever back to "D" so the car doesn't jerk when the transmission engages again.

-soD

jwh1276

04-03-2008, 10:52 PM

Got it...thanks Wayne and Warthog:)

FSUspectra

04-07-2008, 10:43 AM

Hello all, my name is Brandon, and I'm new to the site as of about a week ago. Started applying the techniques of NICE-on and Pulse and Glide, as well as shutting the engine off while coasting (is this bad for a manual in neutral? I didn't think so, but I am not sure.) and using Tallahassee's hills to my advantage. I am already up over 100% of EPA estimates, which is saying a lot, since I used to average about 20-22 mpg city and 27-29 highway with the way I drove before. Tires are up to 44 psi and am saving for a scan gauge. Just poking in to say hi!

warthog1984

04-08-2008, 12:59 AM

Brandon-

It depends. Check your owner's manual. If it says "flat-towable" you're OK. Otherwise, you can leave the engine on and pop the tranny to "N" to keep the long glides while lubricating the tranny. This is called "NICE-On Coasting" and can be used to P&G.

Right Lane Cruiser

04-08-2008, 07:27 AM

You shouldn't have any issues doing that with a manual transmission, Brandon. It isn't completely clear from your post but it looks like you are driving a 5spd manual transmission car?

FSUspectra

04-08-2008, 10:39 AM

Yes Sean, my vehicle is a 5 speed manual. The owner's manual prefers the vehicle be towed with the front wheels lifted, however it also mentions the ability to tow the vehicle with a tow strap for short distances (50 mi or so) at no more than 55 mph with the transmission in neutral. SO, in theory, I could coast with the engine off around town for hundreds of feet no problem, just not on the highway, which I probably wouldn't be too crazy about doing in the first place.

Right Lane Cruiser

04-08-2008, 11:01 AM

Coast distances at high speed are so short anyway I don't worry about speed limitations. Those instructions are mostly intended to avoid high speed towing of the vehicle for longer distances. A FAS will only last a few miles at most.

I wouldn't worry about that -- your car is FASable and you should take advantage of it!

FSUspectra

04-08-2008, 12:02 PM

oh i have been, booyah!

thanks for your input.

HemiSync

04-09-2008, 10:41 PM

When I was setting up my mileage log here, I noticed that, at least for my 2005 HCH, the log uses the old EPA rating of 46 City & 51 Hwy. The current revised rating is 38 City & 45 Hwy. Those figures can be found here: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/hybrid_sbs.shtml

Any reason to continue to use the older ratings as compared to the new revised ratings?

xcel

04-09-2008, 11:22 PM

Hi HemiSync:

___Yes, we have the 08 and newer models separated for a reason as they have different criteria for hypermiler etc. Since you have an 05, use the EPA that was in force than (1985 – 07 EPA specs).

___Good Luck

___Wayne

warthog1984

04-09-2008, 11:31 PM

HemiSync

04-10-2008, 03:33 AM

See Discussion on Old versus New EPA Here (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9920&highlight=epa+numbers)

Thanks for the info. I have moved my comments over there.

ndaspire

04-12-2008, 03:54 PM

Hello
I,m Paul and I wonder if I am all alone up here in north central North Dakota, about 40 crow miles from Canada and 115 crow miles from Minnesota.
I think I have become addicted to this source of information and apologize for not always logging on while I view the wealth of information.
After looking at all the mileage logs I feel all alone with my 95' Ford Aspire 5spd. I bought it last fall with 140,000+ miles. It seems mechanically sound even though well dinged. CV joints were replaced by previous owner.
FE last summer was 40-41 mpg on hwy at 60-65 mph. Fe dropped to low-mid 20,s during winter.
Problems! My drive is 1/4 mile pavement ( yes we do have that stuff up here in the north!), followed by 7 3/4 miles of single lane gravel which cuts my FE. BUT- no stop lights, stop signs, and most beautiful, no traffic so I can stumble thru my hypermiling beginning. At each of my two corners I can NICE-OFF? and the engine has started to warm by then. I can park to drive out downslope at work but only drive out on level at home.
I do use car at work between barns (1 block X 3) that does hurt FE. Tire pressure has gone from 28 psi to 36 psi to present 48psi and will keep it there until old worn weatherchecked tires arereplaced. I can now upshift much earlier, and use 4th instead of 3rd for cornering. I,m learning P & G somewhere in the 25-40 range, but as I say, learning!
Another problem is I don't think Aspire is SGII friendly, and there is no tach, vacuum guage,so every effort is seat of pants feeling .
I will post milage logs later, but for now will say last four tanks over two months were 28-34-33-36 and I know some of the gain was from weather warming from 10-30 to 20-50.
Any advice or comments are very welcome and needed to attain my 40+ mpg goals.

Right Lane Cruiser

04-12-2008, 10:15 PM

Hi, NDAspire! I don't know if you are "all alone" but you are certainly not alone in your pursuit!

What are your typical speeds on your routes?

Your car is not compatible with the ScanGauge but you if you have EFI you should be able to use a SuperMID (produced but member Yoshi) in your car. This will give you much of the same information and I know that Basjoos has had a lot of success using this device in his '92 AeroCivic. :)

ndaspire

04-13-2008, 08:04 PM

Sean:
Tnxs for inquiry as to route speeds.

---- 20-25 mph on 1/4 mile pavement
---- work up to 40-45 mph trying to P & G 1/4 miles segments for 3 miles of gravel
---- pulse up to 50 over slight rise, then coast (nice-off?) 1/2 mile to corner (temp guage up to normal by now)
---- work up to 40 p&g for 2/3 mile, pulse to 50, then coast 1/3 mile to corner
---- P & G 45 to 30 for last 2 miles of gravel to work, coasting last 1/4

----- P&G 45-30 avoids having to up shift 4th to 5th. I can bump ice? in 5th and go.

any suggestions are needed and appreciated.

Paul

Right Lane Cruiser

04-13-2008, 10:50 PM

Those are very workable speeds!

Are you using "warm up" P&G when you start out? What is your normal delta (difference between min and max speeds) for P&G? What rate are you pulsing at? Sticking to 4th is good but you don't want to pulse too slow -- just as you don't want to pulse too fast. You want to accelerate at 2/3rds to 3/4 full rate. Fast enough to be moderate but not flat out. In my Elantra that ends up being roughly 2.5-3mph per second.

That gravel is KILLER. I'm sure if you had any way around it you'd be using it?

ndaspire

04-16-2008, 09:31 PM

Still trying warmup P&G. I think I'm upshifting to quick, lugging the engine and thus little or no acceleration. I think my glides are probably shorter than my pulses.
I have been aiming for Delta of 15 mph, which may be to much.
Next effort is warmup P&G 25-10 in third and warm engine P&G 40-25 in 4th. Corners will be pulse to 45 and ICE-OFF to corners.
Alternate route is 4 miles less gravel but 4 miles further and through town.
Thanks for questions and comments. I've got a lot to learn

Paul

Nikki

04-18-2008, 08:58 AM

When should I shift gears for best FE? Pontiac Vibe [Toyota Matrix] 5sp Manual, 1.8 liter engine. The owner's manual says to shift at 15 mph, 25mph, 35mph, & 45mph but my gut tells me I have a tach for a reason!

Efficient shifting is very important for me since I have a killer 1.6 mile one way commute [yes, I typed 1.6 mile] with 2 stop signs and 4 traffic lights. Most of the route is a 6 lane rd with 45mph speed limit & pretty heavy traffic during my drive time. Staying above the EPA numbers for my car is going to be tough.

Thanks!

Right Lane Cruiser

04-18-2008, 11:52 AM

Hi, Niki! In my Elantra (which probably has similar gearing), I shift at 6mph, 12mph, 21mph, and 28mph if I'm just trying to get up through the gears to steady state cruise. You have to be gentle on the pedal to do this and expect slow acceleration. For faster acceleration, stick to 10mph intervals -- which will put you in 5th at 40mph.

Trying to get the max out of a stickshift will require you to exploit P&G with FAS, though. Especially on that short commute! For that (in your speed range), I'd get to 4th around 32mph and pull up to 45 -- then coast. If you can swing it, slower is better of course. 40mph max would probably be fine but I've not seen your area so I can't say for sure.

Hope that helps!

TimboliahPantsOnFiyah

04-20-2008, 12:00 AM

I know the standard answer from reading through old posts: "Check the owner's manual... if it says not to tow with all four wheels on the ground, then you can't do NICE-Off FAS."

The thing is, while my manual does say that the AT model is not designed for "dinghy towing" (four wheels on the ground) and that it can damage the car... It also goes on to say that in an emergency, it can be towed with all four wheels on the ground but only if the drive train, wheels, suspension, tranny, is in good shape and it should only be done on hard surfaces.

I really love the idea of coasting with the engine off and using ZERO gas, but obviously not at the expense of tearing up my tranny. I currently have 253 miles on the car. Since the owners manual said it could be done... (in an emergency), I went ahead and tried it a little for the first time today for a few FAS P&Gs. It seemed to do just fine. I am reluctant to do this any more though for lack of understanding what the potential problem might be. Your thoughts?

xcel

04-20-2008, 09:15 AM

Hi Tim:

___You are taking risks and if it were me, FAS’ing would be a very rare occasion.

___Shutting down at longer lights and such is something you should definitely consider! I took a news crew out on a clinic (the host driving) in an 06 Taurus V6 w/ Auto and although the numbers were somewhat pathetic in my book, I only guided him with basic setup and techniques in a stop light to stop light segment. The 20 mpg rated Taurus (08 EPA combined) pulled a 32.x with (3) shut downs at red lights. It really does help.

___Good Luck

___Wayne

mgilman

04-22-2008, 05:22 PM

hi guys my little geo died this week and am forced to drive my 2000 jeep cherokee sport to and from work.any tips to improve this gas guzzlers mileage.

warthog1984

04-22-2008, 05:43 PM

hi guys my little geo died this week and am forced to drive my 2000 jeep cherokee sport to and from work.any tips to improve this gas guzzlers mileage.

On the home page, there's a series of article links on the RH side. Click "Beating The EPA", read, do, and enjoy!

OZX3+1

04-23-2008, 05:01 PM

I'm a diesel driver; 2004 Ford F250 6.0L. I drive 50ish miles/day M-F, and maybe another 50-or-so on the weekends. I recently purchased my ScanGauge II w/X-gauge, but have yet to start using it (need to find the right spot to mount it). I'm very interested in leveraging the capabilities of the X-gauge. If there's a listing of the Ford enhanced PID's and related programmatic entries required to utilize the x-gauge as a monitor, I'll be quickly in the game!

Your help is appreciated!

sl163451

04-23-2008, 05:03 PM

bestmapman

04-23-2008, 05:09 PM

bestmapman

04-23-2008, 05:12 PM

Just join this afernoon after listening to a program on 770 AM in Calgary
Have 3 Vehicals and a 1500 Kawaski Vulcan.

1. 2004 Chevrolet 2500HD EXt Cab 6 Liter Gas c/w super chip, K & N filter. c/w 26 ft Cherokee travel trailer Truck weigth 6,000 lbs Trailer weight dry 7,450. as is on the flat mild wind I get 12 Mp Imperial Gallon with out Trailer 18 Mp Imperial Gallon doing speed limite or slightly above. This is the Animal I want to get the best Results on

2. 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII gets 23 - 24 mpg

3. 2003 Saturn Vue AWD 6 Cyl Have not checked

Question 1, what is this SG-11/Xgauge is it a recommended buy and in what manner will it pay for it's self.

Question 2, The advertising www.water-4-fuel.com interests the hell out of me has anyone investigated this and what did you learn. fact or fiction.

I don't know if I am doning this right I must be on wrong area my options are 'submit reply'

Nice to meet you Here goes

Hi sl,

Question #1 The scanguage is recommended to give you a better idea on what is happening with your vehicle. You can monitor such things as ignition timing and throttle position, to name a few, that helps get the maximum performance out of your car.

Question #2 I don't have any first hand knowledge of this, but I would be careful. Things that sound to good to be true, usually are.

xcel

04-23-2008, 07:09 PM

Hi Sl:

___Welcome to CleanMPG!

___There must have been a lot of Canadians that heard the radio show this afternoon as non-member traffic is up about 20% since early this afternoon.

___About Q #2. Those are simply google ads and without them, this site would not exist. I do not endorse the water injection stuff as it is definitely there only to empty your wallet and that is all :(

___Good Luck and welcome again.

___Wayne

sl163451

04-23-2008, 09:11 PM

Wayne,

I just bought one of your Montoring Machine SG-11 will use this on my truck, with total of 14000 GVW I want to stay with gas and get the best I can. Would appreciate all the help I can get. I have had a Deisel unless you have Huge load who needs the stinky, noisy, expensive to maintain and buy, trucks. The maintence difference and the cost of the equipment deisel you never get it back.

Thanks

xcel

04-23-2008, 09:23 PM

Hi Sl:

___Check your PM as I have a question about shipping an SG-II to your home address ...

___Good Luck

___Wayne

warthog1984

04-23-2008, 09:32 PM

Just join this afernoon after listening to a program on 770 AM in Calgary
Have 3 Vehicals and a 1500 Kawaski Vulcan.

1. 2004 Chevrolet 2500HD EXt Cab 6 Liter Gas c/w super chip, K & N filter. c/w 26 ft Cherokee travel trailer Truck weigth 6,000 lbs Trailer weight dry 7,450. as is on the flat mild wind I get 12 Mp Imperial Gallon with out Trailer 18 Mp Imperial Gallon doing speed limite or slightly above. This is the Animal I want to get the best Results on

2. 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII gets 23 - 24 mpg

3. 2003 Saturn Vue AWD 6 Cyl Have not checked

Question 1, what is this SG-11/Xgauge is it a recommended buy and in what manner will it pay for it's self.

Question 2, The advertising www.water-4-fuel.com interests the hell out of me has anyone investigated this and what did you learn. fact or fiction.

I don't know if I am doning this right I must be on wrong area my options are 'submit reply'

Nice to meet you Here goes

Welcome!

You will be glad to know that you aren't the only truck driver trying to save fuel here. Many members hypermile Pickups of all sizes both with and without trailers, RVs, and even a Big Rig or two. :)

1)The SG-2 allows monitoring of engine performance to fine-tune your driving and maximize fuel economy. See Beating the EPA - The Why’s and how to Hypermile (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510) for driving tips on hypermiling and maximizing MPG. Many of the tips can be done without a SG-2, but not as efficiently.

2) Junk. its merely a google ad that pops up.

Come on in, look around, feel free to ask questions. if you have trouble navigating, the "Fuel Economy Forums" button on the left hand side of every page will get you to the Forum overview page

cfskellyvt

04-24-2008, 07:00 AM

warthog1984

04-24-2008, 09:30 AM

Hi All First Post! Currently driving a 1998 Buick Century which gets ~20-22MPG and probably won't pass inspection next Jan. Looking to replace this car with a Used car. I am hoping to find something with better gas mileage and not cost over 7K. Anyone have any ideas on the replacement(No one out there would have a old Dodge Omni or Plymoth Horizon? Yes, there was a time when American made cars used to get ~40mpg, I am dating myself now!)

Welcome!

You can try posting in For-Sale/Wanted if you want, but any Horizon is going to be pretty run-out.

I'd recommend any small Honda/Toyota as they are extremely reliable, FE, and roomy. They are also assembled in the USA.

If you are dead-set on getting a Big 3 car, you may have to settle for an Aveo or wait for the latest Focus edition to age.

OZX3+1

04-24-2008, 04:56 PM

Hi OZ,

Have you looked at scanguage.com yet? There is a lot of good info there.Hello, bestmapman
Yup... Pretty much have that information in the bag. What I'm hoping to find are the enhanced PID's so I can monitor some other stuff. One in particular would be oil pressure, but I'm not sure that is available... I need the guru's.

nerys

04-26-2008, 01:28 AM

me2johns - Consider a few years old VW TDI! Almost new, insane life expenctancy and insame mpg without even adding in hypermiling. (50+ mpg at 75mph with the air on is quite doable!)

BostonDriver

04-28-2008, 07:59 PM

Hi everyone! I'm new but am addicted to and obsessed with hypermiling. I drive a 2003 Ford Focus zts with a 2.3 engine. It is a pzev though. I drive approximately 38 miles into Boston daily. My car is a 5 speed and my most recent tank went 553.5 miles on 13.040 gallons for an average mpg of 42.44. I know it isn't as high as many but I am extremely happy as I used to average about 340 miles per tank for an average of about 26 mpg before hypermiling. I use a lucas fuel additive, 44 psi, and recently tried 0w20 synthetic oil. The oil seemed to make the most noticeable difference besides technique. I was around 38 to 39 mpg and right after the oil change got the 42.44. I know that a lot of other factors go into it, but it is promising. This is all with a car that has 107,000 miles on it and has never had anything besides brakes and tires. My question is this, what is the best speed to cruise on the highway? Do you need a scan gauge to figure it out? Is cruising at 50 better than say 55 or is the difference minute? It is true that hypermiling relaxes me on the commute, I used to be a fast lane 75 to 90 mph kind of guy. The difference of time on my commute is barely noticeable. The guys at work laugh at me, but with gas prices, more and more are giving it a try. It's cool that you can change your mpg so drastically just by changing your driving habits. I'm sort of a lazy hypermiler though cuz I like to use the cruise control a lot. Oh well, to each his own.

Neicy

04-28-2008, 08:41 PM

Wow! Great job! You'll have the last laugh at the pump.

sailordave

04-28-2008, 09:58 PM

If you drive a pick-up truck don't drop the tailgate to drive. According to a Mythbusters test this will create drag and reduce your mpg. Keeping the tailgate up will create a bubble of air that will create an aerodynamic flow to keep mpg good. They did get good results with removing the tailgate and replacing it with the net. Not sure why.

kellywest

05-02-2008, 01:34 PM

I drive a 2000 Mazda Protege. What are the fuel economy saving tips for my car?

diamondlarry

05-02-2008, 01:56 PM

I drive a 2000 Mazda Protege. What are the fuel economy saving tips for my car?
Welcome to CleanMPG. Tells us a bit more about your vehicle and the terrain and traffic conditions on your commute. Is the car an automatic or manual? How long do you drive? Where do you drive(city, country, expressway, etc.)?

johnkelsall

05-03-2008, 09:53 PM

as a not so proud owner of a ford expedition i think i have very strong reasons to practice fuel effecient behaviors. this units was my wifes "get around town" car and our holiday travel trailer tow car.i was working and a work truck was supplied for my commuting,work week travel and personal use also. wow what a gift it was.however all good thinks must end
now this expy is our only transport and the mileage keeps sliding below 10mpg
the price is now 4.04 per gallon.
what can i do i have a pcv valve to in stall and i think may be spark plugs but have heard news that some plugs when removed break the head! i don't need that i know that most repairs for this expy are 600.00 each. So the question is is there a garraunted way to remove the plugs with out breaking the head? and would this not be the correct path of repair?
thanks
johnkelsall

HEMI-Fit

05-09-2008, 10:44 PM

diamondlarry

05-09-2008, 11:03 PM

Well, I hate to reveal myself as a retard at this early stage of the game, but may as well just get it out of the way. I'm trying to set up one of those spiffy little green/blue mileage boxes that all the cool kids have, and it seems like I'm making things worse rather than better. Figuring that I probably need some mileage numbers first, I tried uploading some data in to the mileage logs. Apparently I entered something wrong, because my mileage looked to be in the 50mpg range which is well beyond what I've achieved so far. So, I need to edit the data in the log... how's that done? Can it be done? If not, should I just be adding the one trip I'm most proud of?

Second, where the heck does the cool-kid green box show up? I'd like to link it to my profile on another site, but so far I can't even see the thing. Maybe it'll automagically show up once I complete this post...

Any help or advice GREATLY appreciated, and I'll try to not be so painful in the future...

Thanks,

Clair
Clair, first of all, welcome to CleanMPG. If you need to edit an entry, there is an "edit" link for each entry in your fuel log. It may take a little while to update but, once you enter a fuel log entry, you will see one of those cool-kid boxes show up in your fuel log. Once that shows up, right click on the box and select "properties". You will see a string of characters with a number in it similar to this: http://www.cleanmpg.com/garage/images/423.png(my car) You need to copy this link and paste it into your signature. To add it to your signature, click on User CP and choose edit signature. Paste the the address of the image you copied earlier and click save. If that doesn't work, let me know.

psyshack

05-09-2008, 11:21 PM

Welcome!

The coolist of kids are the ones that learn something. Grow and pass it on. :)

xcel

05-10-2008, 12:11 PM

Hi Hemi-Fit:

___Go to the Garage – Add Vehicle (http://www.cleanmpg.com/index.php?page=garagenew). Once you have added your vehicle, you can begin entering tanks. Once that is complete, a sig graphic is created. From there, you surround the img with img tags and throw it in your sig form in your User Control Panel.

___Better yet, create your vehicle and add a tank and I can take care of the rest for you ;)

___Good Luck

___Wayne

HEMI-Fit

05-10-2008, 03:57 PM

OK, Thanks, guys, looks like I'm on the right track now. Clicking on my username in the Garage, it takes me where all the cool little tidbits are stored - and most importantly, can be edited. Now I can fix what I have here to match the spreadsheet I've been keeping on my own before "discovering" CleanMPG.com. Sadly, I don't think I'll be setting any FE records. My commute is so short (4.5 mi), and essentially all city driving, there's just not much opportunity to improve. Plenty of opportunity to not do anything stupid, though, and so far I'm a tad ahead of the EPA City estimate.

Now to spend a few minutes and fix what I goofed earlier...

Thanks again,

Clair

scratch

05-13-2008, 06:48 AM

I know posted this in my introduction thread but I'm not sure where it's supposed be so here it goes again:
So I haven't posted here in a while, things where going great in the couple of weeks that followed my last post.

To give you a small recap, I bought my first new car in January, an 2008 Civic Hybrid w/out the Nav.
I had some minor problems from the get go, certain rattles and that would bug the hell outta me cause they were right in my ear, just little .
Then there was this boing boing sound when you get to certain dips or potholes, which they can't or won't fix, they say it's normal, the way the engine's mounted or some ****.
Anyway about a month and a half after getting the car it was parked on the street and got smashed.
The damage to my car being the end result of 2 other cars colliding in an intersection.
Now that the car is fixed there are more and more and more problems.
BTW I'm still waiting for $1000 deductible from one of there insurance companies, efing douche bags.

Well now I'm finally done with it, I've reached my absolute boiling point and I can't take it anymore.

I just had the headliner replaced, twice cause they couldn't get it right the first time, a vent just fell out, my mpg's went from 40-47 to 35ish.
And for the 1st time my battery power randomly dropped to 2 bars, before the accident it sometimes went to 3 but was mostly at 4 and up.
This has happened a couple of times already since.
I swear since January I've had this car and it's spent more time in the shop than I have driving it.
It's got about 3500 miles on it, almost 4k i guess, the mechanics have probably put half those miles on themselves.

Anyway, sorry, the point being because of the accident the car doesn't really fall under the Lemon Laws and even if the accident didn't happen, I'd prolly fall a bit short on qualifying for the Lemon Law replacement regardless.

You guys seem to be fairly rational people and deal well with stress, I am clearly not as I want to punch everybody affiliated with Honda in their teef and I want kick everyone at the auto body shop in there shin, what would you:

A: Say ef it I'm done and trade it in for a Prius
B: Say screw it I'm done and trade it in for another Civic Hybrid cause I just got a bad one that was compiled by an accident
C: Say to the hell with it and just deal with it and keep it (This one would frustrate me to know end :mad:, not really an option I guess)
C: Or say **** it and get my West Coast Attorney and sue everybody and there momma until they give me a new one (highly unlikely, I know)

Thanks

diamondlarry

05-13-2008, 07:01 AM

I know posted this in my introduction thread but I'm not sure where it's supposed be so here it goes again:
So I haven't posted here in a while, things where going great in the couple of weeks that followed my last post.

To give you a small recap, I bought my first new car in January, an 2008 Civic Hybrid w/out the Nav.
I had some minor problems from the get go, certain rattles and that would bug the hell outta me cause they were right in my ear, just little .
Then there was this boing boing sound when you get to certain dips or potholes, which they can't or won't fix, they say it's normal, the way the engine's mounted or some ****.
Anyway about a month and a half after getting the car it was parked on the street and got smashed.
The damage to my being the end result of 2 other cars colliding in an intersection.
Now that the car is fixed there are more and more and more problems.
BTW I'm still waiting for $1000 deductible from one of there insurance companies, efing douche bags.

Well now I'm finally done with it, I've reached my absolute boiling point and I can't take it anymore.

I just had the headliner replaced, twice cause they couldn't get it right the first time, a vent just fell out, my mpg's went from 40-47 to 35ish.
And for the 1st time my battery power randomly dropped to 2 bars, before the accident it sometimes went to 3 but was mostly at 4 and up.
This has happened a couple of times already since.
I swear since January I've had this car and it's spent more time in the shop than I have driving it.
It's got about 3500 miles on it, almost 4k i guess, the mechanics have probably put half those miles on themselves.

Anyway, sorry, the point being because of the accident the car doesn't really fall under the Lemon Laws and even if the accident didn't happen, I'd prolly fall a bit short on qualifying for the Lemon Law replacement regardless.

You guys seem to be fairly rational people and deal well with stress, I am clearly not as I want to punch everybody affiliated with Honda in their teef and I want kick everyone at the auto body shop in there shin, what would you:

A: Say ef it I'm done and trade it in for a Prius
B: Say screw it I'm done and trade it in for another Civic Hybrid cause I just got a bad one that was compiled by an accident
C: Say to the hell with it and just deal with it and keep it (This one would frustrate me to know end :mad:)
C: Or say **** it and get my West Coast Attorney and sue everybody and there momma until they give me a new one (highly unlikely, I know)

Thanks
First of all, I would say go for A). I'm not saying that just because I have a Prius either. Since you have had this much trouble with the Honda, I would guess that any troubles you would have with another Honda(no matter how minor) would be enough to drive you over the edge. If you went with the Prius that could be avoided and you wouldn't have your money tied up. If you were having trouble with a Prius I would suggest the Honda. Good luck and keep us updated.

scratch

05-13-2008, 07:10 AM

First of all, I would say go for A). I'm not saying that just because I have a Prius either. Since you have had this much trouble with the Honda, I would guess that any troubles you would have with another Honda(no matter how minor) would be enough to drive you over the edge. If you went with the Prius that could be avoided and you wouldn't have your money tied up. If you were having trouble with a Prius I would suggest the Honda. Good luck and keep us updated.Thank you sir....I like the way you think!

HEMI-Fit

05-18-2008, 03:40 PM

Well, it looks like I've got some of the goodies sorted out, but now I've got a question about how it calculates the numbers in the box. Specifically, I've got an all-time peak of 39.6mpg, and it's now included in my mileage log, but it doesn't show up in the historical box in my sig. Is there more to the calculations than intuition would lead me to believe?

Thanks again,

Clair

valkyries

05-20-2008, 11:17 AM

jennsdad

05-20-2008, 05:10 PM

I just joined and have no idea how this works.
How do I make a simple post?
How do I "subscribe" to forums? Tried a couple of things, but it keeps telling me I'm not subscribed, no explanation is given as to how to subscribe, and I left my Ouija Board in my other suit...

SpartyBrutus

05-20-2008, 05:46 PM

I am new and not sure how to post. Hopefully this works.

I just bought a 2008 Honda Pilot because of the size of my family....Now I wonder if I will ever be able to drive it because of current gas prices. Can I hypermile in a suv? How do I do it?

Thanks

You can hypermile too! Certainly checkout tips on this site.

Top tips - there are many more:
- Dont speed on the freeway
- Avoid using breaks - try to coast and anticipate stop lights/slowdowns
- Dont accellerate too quickly
- Make sure your tires are inflated to at least the max sidewall pressure

angxous

05-20-2008, 08:02 PM

Hello new Junior Member here.

I've just begun my "hypermiling" experience today. And, was able to squeeze and extra 30 miles out of the first half tank of gas in just one day. Usually, have a 25 mile commute one way to work that includes mostly freeway driving. Just have to watch out for the folks who slow down or stop when the freeway curves slightly.

bestmapman

05-22-2008, 09:34 AM

Hi and welcome to the forum. Make sure you read this (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510). It is a great place to start.

TIGR

05-24-2008, 07:19 PM

He everyone, I already asked this in my intro thread but never did get an answer: between Sumitomo HTR T4s and HTR 200s, which will be better for FE?

HTR 200s weigh 20lbs, inflate to 51psi, and were recommended by GreenSeal.
HTR T4s weigh 18lbs, inflate to 51psi also, and offer better tread life.

So the T4s are lighter but the 200s were recommended by GreenSeal. I read the GreenSeal report and the tire comparisons in the Files section on this site, but none of these documents include both the T4s and 200s for comparison.

Thanks in advance for any help!

HEMI-Fit

05-24-2008, 10:54 PM

I would say that the lighter weight and higher treadwear make the T4 the winner. Do you need an all-season tire, or will you have dedicated winter tires?

Clair

TIGR

05-24-2008, 11:19 PM

I was thinking that too, because I imagine the better treadwear equals harder rubber, which it seems to follow would be less "grippy" and a better LRR candidate, but that's all speculation for lil' old me. :P I have a separate set of tires for our lovely Minnesota winters. :) Thanks for your reply.

ndaspire

06-01-2008, 09:58 PM

warthog1984

06-01-2008, 10:31 PM

I've got a computer monitor question. How do I fit everything in from side to side? Some posts I have to scroll back and forth as I read. The whys and how-tos of hypermiling are very hard to read. I've played around in the 'view" menu, and the style types at the bottom left side of the page, but I'm not getting something right! Ideas please?

Paul

Maximize your browser (The middle button on the upper right) If its a windows machine and shows a box in front of another box, its maximized. If its only one box, its not. For macs, it turns green I believe.

ndaspire

06-02-2008, 09:15 PM

Tnxs for your response, but, no it is already that way. It is irritating to have to scroll back and forth to get a few words on each side.

Tnxs, Paul

martyd816

06-04-2008, 01:08 PM

Hi,

My name is Marty and I drive a 2003 Mazda Protoge5 hatchback. I use it mainly to commute back and forth to work. The roundtrip is ~15 miles, all city traffic, five days a week. Recently, I've started changing my driving habits by accelerating slower, and coasting more and using the brakes less on stops. The transmission has two modes: automatic and manual. I've begun using the manual mode almost exclusively.

So far I've seen about a 10% increase in FE (already picking up on some the acronyms. :) Took me a while, but I found out ICE stands for internal combustion engine! )

So, I'm hoping to apply more hypermiling techniques and get even better FE from my Protoge5.

:Banane54:

martyd816

06-04-2008, 01:29 PM

In the article "Beating the EPA - The Why’s and how to Hypermile," I ran across this statement in the FAS section: "Recover by starting up ICE via key to IG-III, release to IG-II, and engage transmission with a rev match to continue on your way."

I'm not sure exactly what this statement is trying to say. Can someone please provide some more detail? Thanks. :confused:

Right Lane Cruiser

06-04-2008, 08:30 PM

Translation: "Keystart the engine, rev match before putting the putting the transmission back into gear, then continue driving as you normally would."

martyd816

06-05-2008, 11:24 AM

Translation: "Keystart the engine, rev match before putting the putting the transmission back into gear, then continue driving as you normally would."

Thanks Right Lane Cruiser. :Banane04:

dixied

06-05-2008, 05:22 PM

I was reading over the How to Beat the EPA article and found this:

"Alternate Routes: If you have a choice between a 65 mph limited high speed route w/ few lights to work or a 40 mph limited route with some lights to work, which one do you take? The 40 mph limited route will give you many more opportunities to achieve FE far above the EPA ratings of your hybrid as seen in the speed tests above. The techniques you can use to maximize FE by P&G or FAS are just 2 examples of many."

Now I'm even more confused now than when I started. I thought I knew which route to work was most FE, but can someone verify my logic.

Route 1: Part Interstate/Part Scenic: 20 miles, 9 lights, some low hills.
Route 2: Almost all Interstate: 18 Miles, 5 lights, all flat.
Route 3: Thru the Hood: 17 miles, 15+ lights, all flat.

I started this learning process a few days ago at 34 mpg and I'm up to 40.4 mpg. Personally I think it should be called hyperSmiling! I haven't had this much fun in a car since I was a teenager. :D

Joan Wartenburg

06-05-2008, 05:42 PM

Hello, I am glad I found your website and I am looking forward to finding out the techniques used to hypermile and convert my car to run on water (HHO). I just don't know where to start. I have a 2004 Ford Focus and I have trying to develope techniques to hypermile. I have a lot of hills and stop lights on my way too and from work. Basically I know that you need to drive safely like you have no breaks. I am being a safer driver, being very aware the roads, other cars, antipating situations on how to get were I need to go and be safe. Where can I find more techniques on hypermiling?

xcel

06-05-2008, 09:45 PM

Hi Dixied:

___Let me see if I can help …

___The Scenic route will probably allow you the best FE and lowest fuel consumption because you are more able to maximize your strongest techniques. For the beginner, that might mean a medium speed DWL cruise. For an Advanced driver, lots of P&G while DWB into and through those lights. Elite would take it as well for screaming high FE as the glides can be extended forever if need be. That is if that route is a lot less traveled than scenic. If it has areas to pass would be very important. On that route, you have to take advantage of the small hills for a double or triple bump (two, three or even four crests for the price of one pulse into the first) and either a NICE-On for the intermediate hypermiler or FAS for the advanced.

___As for the fun, it depends what kind of fun you are talking about :D

___Joan, read the article section on the far right side of the home page. The Why’s and How to hypermile may sound a bit hybrid centric but it can work magic for your Focus. Hills can be good and bad depending on where you have to stop/start. Stop in the valley and you are toast. Stop at a crest and the free ride coming down the backside is glorious. Light timing in the hills is extremely important. If they cannot be timed and beat, I would start looking for alternates.

___As for the HHO, not when 200% of the EPA is a given vs. the magic that the HHO guys supposedly give you. I have had two HHO guys want to sell here and I said after we do a no-holds bar review either good or bad. Neither bothered to respond back after my reply which should give you an idea as to what is really going on. To much placebo and a lot of money leaving your wallet and into theirs.

___Good Luck and I hope that helped.

___Wayne

dixied

06-06-2008, 05:01 PM

Hi Dixied:

That is if that route is a lot less traveled than scenic. If it has areas to pass would be very important. On that route, you have to take advantage of the small hills for a double or triple bump (two, three or even four crests for the price of one pulse into the first) and either a NICE-On for the intermediate hypermiler or FAS for the advanced.

Thanks! There's where I was running into trouble, the only area to pass involves driving into the Gulf of Mexico. Both the other routes are slightly higher congestion, but with more room to manuver. I'm quite happy with my modest increase in mpg, but I'm sure I can still do better.

xmr

06-11-2008, 02:14 PM

I have tried and tried to create the green signature bar. I have read and printed off the instructions in the sticky but I just can't get it to work. ( and to think I was once a systems manager)

xmr

06-11-2008, 04:01 PM

I finnaly got it to work

xcel

06-11-2008, 10:25 PM

Hi xmr:

___Looks very nice indeed :)

___Good Luck

___Wayne

gijane

06-13-2008, 10:41 AM

c_mac1705

06-13-2008, 11:41 AM

kmactavi

06-13-2008, 12:03 PM

Hey all,

I'm new to this hypermiling thing but I've found it shockingly addictive and have spent the last week devoted to learning its intricacies. That brings me to my question:
If I key back to IG1 for an FAS, does my car still keep record of the miles I've traveled during this span on my Trip? If not, could this be achieved via simply keying back to IG2 instead?
The reason I ask is that I do not own a ScanGauge and am obsessively interested in recording my MPG over the last tank. If I'm missing out on valuable miles during countless FAS's, it could really smudge my calculations.
I'm driving an '06 Vibe, if that helps. Thanks for any aid you can offer.

You've got it right, if you have a digital odometer, it will stop while in IG1, when the key is turned back to IG2 it will start counting again. The lost distance will slightly affect your reported MPG, but insignificantly compared to the gains of a FAS. You can verify this on a deserted road by FASing and leaving it in IG1 for over 1/10 of a mile, and see if it increments or not, then redo the test in IG2. You have to be careful doing this, as in IG1 your airbags and other safety features are disabled as well. With an analog (mechanical) odometer, it should keep counting regardless of key position, since they are usually tied in directly to the wheels.

Kirk

kmactavi

06-13-2008, 12:08 PM

hi there. i just found this page and have a ton of questions. First, i drive a 200 buick century, automatic. would these techniques i have read about, such as shifting to nuetral, harm the trnasmission?? if anyone has any thoughts or ideas that would help, that would be great.

Hi Jane, welcome to the site! Wayne's article Beating the EPA (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510) will help you out a lot, and answer many questions. WRT the shifting to neutral to glide, this is called a NICE-ON coast. It stands for Neutral, Internal Combustion Engine - On, and this is a good thread (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12081) about NICE-ON coasting to have a read through.

Norm

06-14-2008, 04:39 PM

Not qite sure how to post here, only reply. I'm driving a 2007 manual Honda Civic Coupe. This past week I got 40 mpg mixed city and highway (a lot of lights) by shutting the engine off at lights, of gliding in neutral, using cruise control and going 5 on highway. I just started timing lights. And as a start inflated my tires 4 pounds until I got comfortable with them. I have started downshifting when I can't glide to lights and wonder if that isn't just as bad as breaking. I notice cruise control goes off, as with braking. Also wonder about the shut-off at lights as it seems like a starter burn, so do it selectively. Am I on the right track here?

Norm

06-14-2008, 05:17 PM

Wait a sec. Am I to understand that I can only glide in neutral if my car can be towed on 4 wheels? If so, I my be ruined!!!!

warthog1984

06-14-2008, 06:01 PM

Wait a sec. Am I to understand that I can only glide in neutral if my car can be towed on 4 wheels? If so, I my be ruined!!!!

All manual trans cars are flat-towable to my knowledge. IIRC, the 8th gen civics are flat-towable. See your owners manual.

kmactavi

06-16-2008, 09:00 AM

Wait a sec. Am I to understand that I can only glide in neutral if my car can be towed on 4 wheels? If so, I my be ruined!!!!

You can glide in Neutral regardless of the flat towing capability. It is when you turn your car off while gliding in Neutral that you need a car that can be flat towed. This is because your transmission is cooled and lubricated with oil. When your engine stops, you lose oil pressure, and it is no longer pumped to the transmission. This could cause overheating if you are gliding with the engine off. If your engine remains on, oil continues to fow, and you're ok.

Not qite sure how to post here, only reply. I'm driving a 2007 manual Honda Civic Coupe. This past week I got 40 mpg mixed city and highway (a lot of lights) by shutting the engine off at lights, of gliding in neutral, using cruise control and going 5 on highway. I just started timing lights. And as a start inflated my tires 4 pounds until I got comfortable with them. I have started downshifting when I can't glide to lights and wonder if that isn't just as bad as breaking. I notice cruise control goes off, as with braking. Also wonder about the shut-off at lights as it seems like a starter burn, so do it selectively. Am I on the right track here?

Downshifting when you can't glide to lights is the best alternative, far better than braking. However, it is only effective if your car has DFCO (to check if your car has DFCO, take your foot completely off the gas at around 2000 RPM, you should decelerate at a decent rate until somewhere around 1000-1500 RPM where it will feel like a brake has been release, and you will reach idle RPMs). What you want to do is rather than downshifting so your RPMs are high and you slow down quickly, you downshift just above idle RPMs (while still in DFCO) so that you glide the furthest while using no fuel.

Hope this helps, I condensed a lot of information, so if you need clarification, just ask.

Kirk

06SpiceRedTDI

06-18-2008, 10:13 AM

What is up with my signature pic, it has been broken since last night.

kmactavi

06-18-2008, 11:10 AM

What is up with my signature pic, it has been broken since last night.

I've seen other peoples like that. Look at the banner at the top, we just switched servers, so there are going to be some glitches that will have to be dealt with. If it's not fixed in the next couple days, you could try PMing one of the moderators.

Kirk

99metro

06-19-2008, 07:48 AM

Just testing my signature. Didn't show up on a previous post. No biggie.

Ok there it is.

Jgeiger

06-23-2008, 02:27 PM

I've got an A/C question... on a 100 mile each way highway drive last week, I decided to run the A/C full blast for five miles and then leave it off as long as possible. Usually that cools my accord down enough that I can mostly go on fan for the rest of the drive.
Is that the right way to do A/C? Or am I better off running it on lower power for longer stretches?

In other news, I drove from Norfolk to Richmond without using my breaks! And I did it in pretty steady traffic, so it's not like I was the only one on the road. That's 100 miles and it felt good!

Also, I still need a bit of help understanding pulse and glide. I've read Beating the EPA and all that but am still confused.

Skwyre7

06-23-2008, 02:51 PM

Pulsing the A/C is better, just like you did it. In my car, it doesn't matter if the A/C is on low or high, it still sucks an extra 0.2 gallon per hour!

As far as P&G, Pulse up to 55mph (for example), throw it in N, and coast down to, say, 50mph, rev match and shift back to D and repeat. Next time you're going to be in Richmond, and you want a mini clinic, let me know.

kmactavi

06-23-2008, 03:09 PM

To add to what Skwyre said, you can use a larger difference in speeds for P&G for better results. Pulsing to 55 and gliding down to 35 is better than pulsing to 50 and gliding to 40 even though they have the same average speed. Once you are comfortable with engine-on P&G, you can try FASing since I see you have a manual.

Take it slow, and don't try to learn too many techniques at once.

Good luck,

Kirk

Jgeiger

06-23-2008, 04:20 PM

Thanks for the advice... and I may take you up on that Richmond clinic later this summer. Do you know of any hypermilers in/around the Norfolk and Hampton Roads area?

And I need to change my profile since I've got an automatic, not a manual! ... but I'll still try to give the P&G a test sometime on a nice empty road.

sk8rgrownup

06-24-2008, 10:12 AM

I just want to make sure I am not damaging my trans/engine with the way I am driving...I try to turn my car off as much as possible going down hills and coasting to stops/lights. I usually pop my clutch into gear before I come to a complete stop so that I do not have to use the starter. Will any of this damage my engine i.e. over-heating, over-wearing...etc. Thanks for any help!

kmactavi

06-24-2008, 11:01 AM

Sk8r, it's fine if you are gliding with your key in the IG-II (Run) position and you bump start properly. Read through this thread (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?p=112010) for more information about bump starting.

Kirk

money-pit

06-26-2008, 04:12 PM

Hi All -- new guy here!

I ventured over to Cleanmpg in an attempt to improve the EPA estimate of 20/29 for my 06 Honda Accord 2dr V6. However, before I start punching in the mileage logs, I am a little confused. After I click on Add Tanks, do I enter "Distance Driven" as the # of miles driven prior to filling up? Then after I fill up a full tank, do I take the amount of gallons filled and enter that in "Amount of Fuel" added?

Thanks in advance. I hope I make enough sense.

kmactavi

06-26-2008, 07:48 PM

I ventured over to Cleanmpg in an attempt to improve the EPA estimate of 20/29 for my 06 Honda Accord 2dr V6. However, before I start punching in the mileage logs, I am a little confused. After I click on Add Tanks, do I enter "Distance Driven" as the # of miles driven prior to filling up? Then after I fill up a full tank, do I take the amount of gallons filled and enter that in "Amount of Fuel" added?

This question has been answered on his other thread.

Kirk

chrisqrd

06-27-2008, 11:30 AM

Hello from Arlington Va. I drive a 2006 Prius on a 16 mile highway commute to work each day... i am getting 46 to 47 mpg per tank on this commute in the 75 degree weather. P&G sounds like a perfect solution to imprvoe mileage... One question however, can i place the Prius in Neutral when i coast without damaging the transmission. So far, that is the only way to keep any arrows (to or from either engine) from appearing on the energy flow screen. Also, I thought one of the points of coasting with the transmission engaged was to charge the battery.. In neutral, the battery is not charged which means that eventually mpg will be affected when the engine has to burn fuel to re-charge the battery...

thanks

chrisqrd

Jgeiger

06-29-2008, 08:45 PM

Hey, has anyone else been having trouble posting mileage logs tonight? Everytime I click on the log link I get a blank white page. Is that just my computer on the fritz or is it a server problem?

kmactavi

06-29-2008, 11:20 PM

Hi Chrisqrd,

Welcome to the site, make sure you you check out the "Start Here!" link in my signature. You can place the Prius in neutral without damaging the transmission.

Check out this thread (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224) about pushing the Prius II to its FE limits, and the new Prius forum (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=55).

Kirk

xcel

06-30-2008, 06:37 AM

Hi Chrisqrd:

___Yes, you can shift to N during your glides if you want.

___Jgeiger, I saw a new thread creation issue yesterday and we will look into them. For the mileage logs, it takes a while to load if you are using IE whereas some of the others display as they come in.

___Good Luck

___Wayne

NeonRob40

06-30-2008, 12:14 PM

Hey everyone, jut got my Scan Gauge. I was wonder on the setup if I have a 12.5 gallon tank should I set it to 12 or 13. Thanks!

kmactavi

06-30-2008, 10:02 PM

Set it to 12. The size only matters for trip values like distance to empty, and gallons to empty.

Kirk

kayakwill

07-01-2008, 10:45 AM

I can't seem to post a picture into my Rides area. Comes back with an error or doesn't do anything. Any suggestions?:confused:

Nanci

07-01-2008, 05:25 PM

I have a question. My front tires have a max rating of 35. The rear tires are different, they have a max rating of 51. Is it ok to have different front and rear pressures? (I am loving my new air compressor!)

Thanks a lot,

Nanci

kmactavi

07-01-2008, 05:44 PM

Hi Nancy, similar question here:

http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12062

Kirk

Juggler

07-09-2008, 08:04 PM

OK, here we go. I have a 2008 Toy Camry Hybrid (TCH). I have aired up my tires to a little over the max psi. I have a 10 mile drive to work each day that is slightly hilly. I use pulse and glide as much as I can. I coast to turns and avoid braking if possible. I have finally learned to run in EV mode while under 42 mph after the car is warm using the technique I can't recal (Where you let off the gas for 3 sec and watch it go to EV and feather lightly to maintain speed until battery is too low and ICE kicks on). I have been getting only about 34 mpg, which is not bad, but I expected better. If I am on the road I can squeak out 42 mpg.

Any tips are appreciated.

Juggler

jppII

07-31-2008, 10:16 AM

Hi,
Can I get info on Dodge Ram Cummings Turbo 2500HD, to get better fuel milage. Thanks, I hope this is the right plaqce to ask question.
Sincerely,John

kmactavi

07-31-2008, 04:00 PM

Hi Jpp, that's strange, I don't see an EPA listing for a diesel 2005 Dodge Ram.

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.htm

Kirk

grafco

07-31-2008, 06:18 PM

Hello,

I am a freelance journalist looking to interview hypermilers in the area of Sarnia, Chatham, or London, Ontario, Canada, with preference to Sarnia. Can anyone help me?

Thank you,

Colin Graf
Sarnia, Ont.
thegrafs@xcelco.on.ca

HEMI-Fit

07-31-2008, 08:17 PM

Hi Jpp, that's strange, I don't see an EPA listing for a diesel 2005 Dodge Ram.

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.htm

Kirk

I think that's because none of the 3/4 or 1-ton trucks are listed, probably due to being exempt from some levels of emissions or CAFE regulations. Interestingly, NOTHING from the Hummer brand is listed, even though the H3 is based on the Colorado/Canyon light truck platform.

It's unfortunate that the larger trucks aren't listed, because the Cummins can pull down some really impressive mileage numbers. Having lived in rural parts of TX where 1-ton dually Dodge trucks were more common than any other particular model of vehicle, I've heard countless stories of guys getting mid-upper teens while pulling a 30-foot trailer loaded with 15K pounds of hay. 20-25 unloaded on the highway was not uncommon, and also impressive for a vehicle that weighs over 6K pounds all by itself.

Clair

kmactavi

08-01-2008, 01:17 PM

Hi Colin, welcome to CleanMPG.com

If you started a new thread you will have a better chance of finding a hypermiler in your area. There aren't a ton of us in Ontario, but I'll keep an eye out for someone from around there. The "Beating the EPA" link in my signature is a good place to start for background information.

Clair, I didn't know that. I half expected it to be tested in Canada, but nothing there either.

Kirk

ferretracer

08-02-2008, 08:13 PM

Hi All,
Brand new to posting here. I'm definitely going to do the hypermiling (once I get my car running!). I have a 1998 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport (EPA 23/30) with 107,000 miles and 5 sp manual transmission. I have a 60 mile roundtrip commute on mostly highways (about 56 of the 60). I'm a teacher who does not work in the summer (my wife pics up extra days to cover that for me to stay home with our kids!!). I'm looking forward to the 'challenge' of getting into the high 30's to start, then hopefully into the 40's.

EcoVibe

08-14-2008, 12:39 PM

How can I contact a web admin who banned my other name today? I spent over 9 hours making a spreadsheet that people can use to help them determine what car to buy, how much money they can save being more fuel efficient, etc. I am trying to promote Eco awareness and did this on my time for free ... and I get banned for spamming 1 ... count it 1 ... post.

Way to make a new member who is trying to help others feel welcome.

Please PM me to discuss.

Right Lane Cruiser

08-14-2008, 01:09 PM

If you are MarkMySite with an advertisement for "Secrets to Better Gas Mileage Program" that would be why -- no advertising please.

EcoVibe

08-14-2008, 01:27 PM

If you are MarkMySite with an advertisement for "Secrets to Better Gas Mileage Program" that would be why -- no advertising please.

Yes I am ... but it's NOT ADVERTISING. Whoever blocked me obviously didn't bother to read it before assuming it was spam because of the name. It's a spreadsheet that anyone can use ... FOR FREE. Please read it, keep it deleted if you don't think it will help others ... whatever. Just unblock my account please.

Here is all it is. I spent a lot of time on it and figured it would be helpful to people. People on other forums I am on are using it too.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p160/Markmysite/SecretstoBetterGasMileage.jpg

HEMI-Fit

08-14-2008, 10:13 PM

I like the spreadsheet, and I appreciate the work that went in to it. And not just because the Fit is rather towards the top of the list...

Clair

EcoVibe

08-15-2008, 07:11 AM

I like the spreadsheet, and I appreciate the work that went in to it. And not just because the Fit is rather towards the top of the list...

Clair

Thanks Clair. They still haven't unblocked my IP on my real account, but hopefully they will. If not, I guess I'll have to use a proxy IP on my laptop. :)

Markmysite

08-15-2008, 01:10 PM

Thank you for unblocking my IP address. Sorry for the misunderstanding with my post.

angie1313

08-20-2008, 09:32 AM

The spreadsheet looked like alot of work. It's appreciated!!

drolet1ogg

08-26-2008, 08:52 PM

Hi All;
I own 2002 Ford Ranger and will have to drive it for several more years in order to get my money out of it. So I am trying to hypermilage as much as possible.
I know that there is group in the Cincinnati, OH aera and want to join them. I can't find them, so if anyone from greater Cinti. reads this, please call me at (513)631-1599.

Thank you;
Joe Drolet

msirach

08-27-2008, 12:06 AM

Pm lamebums or Bestmapman here. They will get you connected as they are 2 or the organizers.

Kate Johnson

09-06-2008, 03:30 AM

SpartyBrutus

09-06-2008, 05:57 AM

Hello! Everbody. Iam Kate Johnson living in Miami,United States. Basically Iam an engineer and I really found this forum interesting. Iam really interested to know
more about automobiles,fuel efficiency and their performances. I really feel HONDA CIVIC
is one of the best performing brands as on today. Please keep informing us about the
latest innovations made by HONDA car manufacturers.
--------------------------------------------
Kate Johnson

Hi Kate and welcome.

Seems that hybrid civics are right up there with Prius FE - especially at freeway speeds. ICE civics take more work to get over 50mpg, but some on this site are doing just that.

Dont know how as at 55-60mph the HCH2 CVT seems to run 1600-1800rpm while the ICE civic runs 2400-2600 (5th gear manual 07 model). Must be a fair amount of FAS and/or <50mph driving in the ICE civics.

Are you a MARKETING engineer?

HEMI-Fit

09-06-2008, 08:33 AM

Almost seems like a pork products engineer... specifically pork shoulder & ham packaged in a rectangular blue & yellow can... Hmmm...

Clair

SLPilot

09-23-2008, 01:02 PM

Hi everyone,
I'm a newbie also. I'm driving a 2000 Saturn SL1 auto in my daily commute. 50% city, 50% highway or country roads. (60-80kph limits.) So far I have inflated my tires to nearly max sidewall and am practising some of the basic techniques. (Driving with load, coasting, driving without brakes, turning off ignition at long lights.)

I thought that I'd do better. So far I've managed about 108% of EPA, or 6.7l/100km (35mpg.) My car is flat towable, so apparently I can coast along in neutral with or without the engine on. There are a few spots on my commute that I can do this and coast for 30-60 seconds, but I don't want to do it often for fear of harming the transmission. I don't know if a scan gauge is in the budget. I have chosen the least hilly route to drive (which also happens to be quite direct.)

What else can I do? Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Colin

Destroyer14094

10-13-2008, 10:42 AM

MaxxMPG

10-14-2008, 01:17 AM

I have a 93' Buick Park ave... I have no idea what half of the technical terms mean, and I would like better than 20-25mpg(21 avg)-

-I do mostly rural driving(speeds-45-55mph)
-I was wondering how to know what rpm to accelerate at since I have read that accelerating too slow could actually worsen mileage
-I usually accelerate at around 2000 rpm
-I use cruise control constantly
-tire pressure is checked once a week to be at max sidewall
-I do routine maintenance once a week(check fluids/hoses/use air intake injector/carb cleaner,etc.)

-I am confused with what else I should do to save gas

Welcome to CleanMPG! Two observations on the '93 Park Ave...
1 - Since it's 16 years old, be sure the oxygen sensor isn't too old. Newer (1996+) cars are OBD-II compliant and are more precise in determining when the sensor is on the way out. On older cars, it won't throw the check engine light on until the the sensor has essentially failed and set the computer to open loop.
2 - The car is rather heavy, so the trick is to keep it rolling (no tapping the brakes to slow down only to accelerate again), and keep engine speed as low as possible. For any heavy car or truck, the two big contributors to best fuel economy are DWB and DWL - and for their definitions, you can click on the hyperlink and read more about them. The first is "Driving without brakes", or "Driving with buffer" - Leave lots of room ahead and coast into slower-moving traffic or toward red lights. The second is "Driving With constant engine Load" - or keeping your foot steady on the accelerator and letting the car lose speed going up hill and gain it back going downhill.

You are wise to accelerate in a way that lets the transmission upshift at around 2000rpm. The "slow acceleration wastes gas" dates back to the time when the upshift points were determined by vacuum modulators, tailshaft governors and throttle cables. Your '93 model - a transition year - may be either an older 4T65 transaxle with the throttle cable, or the 4T65E electronically controlled transaxle. If you have the older model (with the throttle kickdown cable running to the transaxle from the throttle linkage), check the service manual for details on how to properly adjust the cable to be sure the transmission isn't hanging in the lower gears too long. The 3.8 V6 is a "torque motor", generating most of its power at low rpm, so there is nothing gained by winding it up much over 2500rpm.

If your commute involves any long red lights or other stops longer than 15 seconds or so, shift to N and shut the car off if the engine is fully warmed. When you're ready to go again, restart the car and move the lever back to D. The car will start in N and you can easily bump the lever back to D and get going before the guy behind you gets impatient.

www.fueleconomy.gov shows your '93 Park Ave was rated 19/27, 22 combined (17/25, 20 combined under the newer 2008 standard), so 20-25 means you're at least in the range noted by the EPA. Remember that most people never reach that goal. Your car doesn't support the Scan Gage, but it may have either an average or instant MPG readout in the trip computer. If it does, you can use it to adjust your driving style for peak fuel economy.

Be sure to read the article "Beating the EPA..." - There's a link to it on the home page. Each time you read it, you learn something new and useful.

Showbizk

10-14-2008, 08:47 AM

...If your commute involves any long red lights or other stops longer than 15 seconds or so, shift to N and shut the car off if the engine is fully warmed...
Maxx! A quick question: Why not shut it off regardless of engine temp? After all, a cold engine idling uses more fuel than a warm one. At least when you're moving, even cold, you're getting some MPG. Personally, if I'm sitting for more than 6-8 seconds, I'm shuttin' 'er down, cold, or warm (unless defrosting is required.)!

Right Lane Cruiser

10-14-2008, 09:05 AM

Because colder engines use more fuel to start as well as using more fuel to idle. This moves the "break even point" to greater time.

park_03

10-14-2008, 10:38 AM

I drive a 97 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a 4.3 vortec V6. I drive 63 kilometers to work one way. I drive different routes to work for car pool reasons. How can I get the best milage outta my truck.

Showbizk

10-15-2008, 06:17 PM

A-ha! OK! Thanks, Cruiser.

drimportracing

10-23-2008, 01:36 PM

This project is how to insulate your hood to retain engine temperatures within the engine bay. I have 9 pictures (.jpg) of varying sizes of 305kb to 650kb for a total of 3.9mbs to include in this "how to". I don't have attachment privileges and would like to know if this is possible or what is normally done? - Dale

drimportracing

10-27-2008, 10:24 PM

http://www.flickr.com/photos/drimportracing/2979500035/in/set-72157608436463497/

How do I attach pictures?????

Showbizk

11-17-2008, 08:21 AM

My bad!!! Of course I found this thread immediately after I posted the following as a new thread! Sorry...

I occasionally miss several days worth of visits, thus get behind on reading posts, and especially replies to my posts. I know can find one of my old posts, click my username, and see the "Show all posts by ____" and then find the ones in which I'm interested, but is there a more direct way to go to the "see all my posts" page? Thanks!

hummingbird

12-23-2008, 08:13 AM

Hi,

Didn't know any help is to be requested here. Posted separately regarding FAS hurting batteries...I summarize again. Also a bunch of newbie queries below. Please help.

1. I use accelerate to 60 kmph / cut ICE + switch to neutral (manual 5 speed transmission). The duty cycle of ICE ON : OFF is 3:7 -> Is this bad enough to starve battery of charge and force me to jumpstart the car at a point eventually? I have headlights as well as a music system (frugal non-fancy CD changer) ON while coasting (headlights only during night time (occasional), music constantly ON:p)

2. Does constant (once every km travelled) bump start hurt the clutch? how badly? Does the fuel savings overcome the replacement cost?

3. I own a Honda City EXi (Indian, 2004 model) Is this vehicle OBD-II compliant? I wanted to buy a scangauge, but wanted beforehand to make sure that the car supports it. Called the local service engineer, he was of no help. How do I go about finding it out?

Thanks for your answers and merry christmas to you all!

Right Lane Cruiser

12-23-2008, 09:04 AM

Welcome!

You do need to careful about 12V status and you should have something to monitor it so that you can NICE-ON to charge when necessary. I don't know if your car is OBD-II compliant (though I suspect it is) -- you could contact Linear Logic directly for info on this. If you can't get use a ScanGauge you should be able to purchase a cigarette lighter adapter with a 12V meter on it. Likewise, you can probably use the SuperMID or the MPGuino (with a bit of wiring).

As for bump starting, if you do it properly there is less wear on the clutch surface than a start from complete standstill.

DeLorean_4

12-27-2008, 03:24 PM

Hi everyone,

I was curious to know how I can set up my own mileage log and edit it. To date I've submitted my vehicle but I can't find the page that allows me to enter fuel consumption information.

Damionk

12-27-2008, 05:56 PM

Click Mileage logs on the left then you should see a link that says add or edit tanks next to your car.

DeLorean_4

12-31-2008, 10:39 AM

Where exactly is this edit tanks button? All I see is "Add a Vehicle" and when I try searching for my Volvo 940, it doesn't show up anywhere.

Damionk

12-31-2008, 11:43 AM

I looked through the mileage logs and I couldn't find your car either. Did you hit send when you entered your car? If you did that you may want to contact Sean (Right Lane Cruiser), he deals with the logs and such.

DeLorean_4

12-31-2008, 12:25 PM

Yes, I clicked "send" when submitting my car. I'll give it a second shot and if it doesn't work I'll contact the administrator.

Right Lane Cruiser

12-31-2008, 12:45 PM

There was a bug a couple of days ago which has since been corrected. Please enter your vehicle again.

TahoeMan

05-11-2009, 03:33 PM

Hey, how is status calculated for the mileage logs? I was once "Skilled" with my Tahoe, and now I am blank on both that and my Malibu. When browsing the others in the comprehensive listing the assignment of status seems somewhat arbitrary looking @ %EPA and miles etc. What gives?

Regards,

Curt

PaleMelanesian

05-11-2009, 03:43 PM

over EPA is Skilled
25% over is Expert
50% over is Elite

On the mileage logs page, you have to log 5000 miles to earn a label.

For 2008+ vehicles, to compensate for the lower epa ratings, the percentages required to reach a status are higher. I think it's an extra 20% or so.

TahoeMan

05-15-2009, 01:39 PM

Thanks, that last tidbit is key. Just another 15 percent or so over EPA and I can be skilled again. :rolleyes:

Don102167

05-21-2009, 07:20 PM

I have purchased a 2009 Chrylser 300 C with the 5.7 liter v8 because I did not fit

in the limited model with 3.5 liter v6. I had a 98 Chrysler Concorde 2.7 LITER V6

which got 24 in town and 30 to 32 on trip with royal purple oil.

Chrylser Fan 44 years

MN_Sienna

08-09-2009, 05:32 PM

I'm fairly new to hypermiling (one tank of gas).

I have read Wayne Gerdes' fantastic dissertation on the EPA FE standards and Hypermiling (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510)

Now I am looking for full articles about each of the FE techniques he talked about and any new ones that have been invented by the hypermiling geeks.

Basic Techniques
RR: Ridge Riding
Three Lights out or distant Anticipatory Focus
DWL: Driving w/ Load
DWB: Driving w/out Brakes (or Driving w/ Buffers)
PP: Potential Parking
Face-Out
Rabbit Timing
Alternate Routes
Smart-Braking (Incline, Descent, Slowing for/with traffic or traffic signals)

Advanced Hypermiling techniques
FAS: Forced Autostop in any vehicle
P&G: Pulse and Glide
HS-P&G: High Speed P&G
Warm up P&G

Hybrid-only techniques
Prius II SHM (Super Highway Mode)
HCH-II Glide, EV Assist and SAHM.
FEH Lga to N (Low Gear Advantage to Neutral) and DGE (Delayed Glide Entry)

I want to see what people have said about how much this technique improved their FE and tips on how to optimize.

It is the nature of forums like this to start a thread about one of these techniques and discuss it a bunch and then the thread goes stale and drops off the front page. If you know it is there you can find it with the search tool but unless it gets stickied new users rarely find these old threads. Perhaps someone with experience on the forums can make a collection of the best hypermiling technique threads and post it (and then get it stickied so people can find it and probably locked after a page or two of comments where people can post about good threads that didn't make the list). Is there already such a place?

xcel

08-09-2009, 05:45 PM

Hi MN_Sienna:

___Some of the techniques are for safety and others are only part of the overall toolbox. Nailing down a % depends on your skill, your route and your patience so trying to produce a given % for a given technique is very very hard. Perform a given technique wrong and it can reduce your FE to the point of being useless. I always recommend that you start out with the basics and begin to build your skills until they are second nature and you can move to the next one.

___One of the most important tools we use is a ScanGauge because without it, you are flying blind. Most receive an ~ 15% improvement once SG-II equipped and than the basic – advanced techniques begin to make much more sense with feedback telling you if you are on the right track or the wrong one as you induce each.

___Good Luck

___Wayne

MN_Sienna

08-09-2009, 09:21 PM

Hi and thanks for responding so quickly.

I'm doing all that. I changed my driving style for about 2/3 of a tank and my average MPG for that tank went up from 19 to 23mpg. Then I got a ScanGaugeII. I'm still working on my first tank with that. My trip FE on the SG comes in at 20 to 30 on my errand running depending on how far I go.

I'm try very hard to anticipate well ahead of me on the road (and watch my mirrors). I DWL up the hills (I use the LOD display on the SG). I DWB as much as possible. I FAS down some hills on some routes where I think it helps. I took off my roof rack this weekend. I still need to make sure my tire pressure is at sidewall max.

I haven't tried P&G. It seems like I have a fairly high rolling resistance so I'm not sure I can make it work for me.

I'm just so new at this that I don't have a lot of confidence that I am applying the techniques correctly. That is why I was hoping there was a part of the forums where people discuss the details of how best to apply the techniques. I also want to get some idea of which ones will be more effective with a large minivan like the Sienna. Obviously the advanced hybrid-only techniques are not going to apply to me. Is there a part of the forum dedicated to talking about the techniques?

Thanks

MN_Sienna

PS. I'm driving from Minnesota to Utah tomorrow and Tuesday. I think I go read up on P&G right now. It seems like P&G is the most helpful technique for highway speeds.

msirach

08-09-2009, 10:41 PM

Welcome to CleanMPG! I haven't driven the Sienna, but I did put a few thousand miles on my BIN's Dodge Grand Caravan a couple of years ago. I put the tires at max sidewall, checked the air cleaner, washed the grime off of it, and removed the perpendicular roof racks. It was straight highway driving and I got as high as 36mpg for one tank and the low was a little over 26mpg with the van packed with my son's clothing and furniture for college. It was SG equipped too. The Toyota technology will make it an efficient trip.

MN_Sienna

08-10-2009, 12:49 AM

I looked at what people are saying about P&G and realized it is most effective at lower speeds. So, it isn't something that I'll start doing until after I get home from this trip.

I have some questions about using the ScanGauge. What is LOD? I know it has to do with engine load but what units is it in (relative units like %, arbitrary units like TPS, or engineering units like horsepower)? Can I use the LOD number to DWL? And what LOD number should I lock it at?

5845682007

02-10-2010, 06:19 PM

Hi everybody: New here and my first post. would like to drop in once in a while. So please pardon me for any wrongs. Will see you all later. Thank-you all.

itbarthur4u

02-10-2010, 07:04 PM

Has anyone determined a logical place to start developing skills and a logical sequence to add new skills? Trying to start everything at once is too much.

I was discouraged when after about 6 months my mpg label disappeared. Seemed like the way that was calculated got changed and I could not find my data base for a while. What happened?

Right Lane Cruiser

02-10-2010, 09:52 PM

If you read through the How's and Why's article it is laid out pretty much in order of techniques you should learn -- if you master each before moving to the next that seems to work pretty well.

What do you mean your label disappeared? Your logs seem to be intact?

LinuxGold

03-18-2010, 10:29 AM

Where can I find and buy SuperMID? I did a google search and found many versions and am not secure about buying online.

Right Lane Cruiser

03-18-2010, 03:20 PM

Send a PM to our member here named Yoshi. :)

LinuxGold

03-19-2010, 08:54 PM

PM'd Yoshi. Thanks.

mmouwse

06-02-2010, 10:28 AM

Good Morning!
I registered recently (a few weeks ago?) and have noticed a continuing irritating problem. I have to sign in repeatedly! I am not noticing any specific pattern or time frame. I sign in, start cruising the site, and notice shortly that I am no longer signed in! Oftentimes it is continuous every time I go to the next page in a thread.
Any ideas?
Thank you!

msirach

06-02-2010, 10:37 AM

Depends on which browser you are using, but there should be a small box near your sign in info to "Save Log In Info." Click it to check it and you should be o.k. If you are on a public computer, be sure to "log off."

drimportracing

06-02-2010, 11:18 AM

mmouwse

06-02-2010, 12:39 PM

Thank you for your help... :)

I do not see the box you speak of near my sign in info or anywhere. :confused:

I see this---> "Welcome, mmouwse. You last visited: Today at 10:01 AM Private Messages: Unread 0, Total 3. " displayed across the top of the window above the site id (i.e. "cleanmpg...")

Currently using windows IE.

I do use CCleaner at the end of my sessions, before I turn off the 'puter.

Right Lane Cruiser

06-02-2010, 12:43 PM

During the logon sequence there is a checkbox after the box where you enter your password. The checkbox is labeled "Remember me?". If you click that entry a long term cookie will be set and you will stay logged in for as long as you do not manually log out (on that computer).

HEMI-Fit

06-02-2010, 10:14 PM

I had similar issues after I auto-upgraded to IE 8. No amount of fiddling would fix the problem for me, so I "downgraded" back to IE 7 and all is well again. I'm running XP Pro, FWIW, and naturally, YMMV.

Clair

LinuxGold

06-03-2010, 07:20 AM

I would recommend Google Chrome (http://www.google.com/chrome)

Elvin Mcclain

06-10-2010, 05:51 PM

Ok, Thanks for the info about finding my way. I would like to find info on The Smart Car because the word is spreading that it is coming to a city near me and I would like to see it. Looks like the perfect city car to drive in San Francisco. We'll see.

WFaber

06-18-2010, 03:28 PM

I own a 2010 BMW 335D and rec'd delivery in Nov 2009. The first few trips before putting the car away for the winter averaged 49 mpg diesel fuel. Excellent car and fun to drive. After sitting in the garage over the winter (Upstate NY winters are hard on cars), I have driven about 4K miles (highway) with an average of 37 mpg diesel. I contacted BMW and they are no help. Does anyone have any ideas what caused the drop in FE? I buy diesel from the same Hess station and my mechanic buys it there as well for his VW diesel. I would love to understand why the FE dropped simply by having the vehicle sit over the winter. I don't think it is the winter fuel as two friends with VW diesels they drove through the winter did not see this drop in FE. I welcome any and all suggestions. Please email me at wfaber@msn.com. Many thanks for everyones help!

msirach

06-18-2010, 04:36 PM

You have a GREAT car. Has it been serviced since it set over the winter? The tire pressure could have decreased by 1 to 2 psi per month and that by itself will greatly hinder your fuel economy.

CRIS

06-19-2010, 01:32 AM

worst thing you can do is let a car sit for months. change all the fluids and give it some time to break in and loosen up. youll be back to 50mpg before you know it.

WFaber

07-14-2010, 03:31 PM

Update on the mileage of the 335D. I checked the tire pressure as suggested and it was low so I corrected that problem. Fuel mileage is now at 35 mpg highway versus 49 last fall. I took the car into the BMW dealer to be checked out and they could not find anything wrong with it and no error codes. Frustrating. Someone suggested an additive to the diesel fuel to see if sitting over the winter had caused a restricted or plugged injector. I will check the BMW website to see what they think about that idea. Anyway, it is a great car and fun to drive I just would like the better fuel mileage back again. I only have 8.5K miles on the car and I know the car can do better. Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.

alvaro84

07-23-2010, 12:35 AM

Hi again in this topic :o

Now I'm in trouble with the profiles in the gas log. I tried to separate shiNIN's tanks with Ciliegia to see them more clearly, but when I typed a new profile name ('shiNIN') under an existing tank and saved it, it just disappeared :eek: I can't see anything in the gaslog screen that says 'change profile' or so, and there's no selectable 'shiNIN' profile when I'm editing another existing tank.
I've entered the missing tank again, but now it may have an invisible duplicate (I can't remember the total kms before doing it, so they may be off too) :o

So my question: what have I done, and what's the correct way to use these profiles? AFAIK I've seen logs that had neatly separated lists under different profiles...

Right Lane Cruiser

07-23-2010, 06:21 AM

I'll take a look in a bit.

Right Lane Cruiser

07-23-2010, 06:47 AM

Found it. There was no profile created when you changed it on the entry you'd already added earlier. I've reset the profile designation to "Default" so you can see it again because I noticed that your new entry shows a different temperature and average trip distance.

I recommend you delete the newer entry (so that the log is back to the way it was before you tried to change the profile name), then add a new entry that is exactly the same as the one I restored but specifying the new profile name you want -- the profile will be created if you designate it during the addition of a new tank. Once that has been done and you are satisfied that the separate section has been created the way you want it, go ahead and delete the earlier copy I just restored for you.

If this is too confusing, shoot me a PM and I can explain it in further detail.

alvaro84

07-23-2010, 09:06 AM

So the problem was creating a profile without creating a new entry? I'll try to create the profile with the next tank (maybe later today - it's crazy hot here, we're off to the beach...)

Thanks for making the lost entry visible, I deleted it :)

hybridowner14

08-27-2010, 10:59 AM

This has been going on for some time now, like over 100,000 miles, but now happens half the time I am driving- There seems to be a communication failure between the hybrid battery and the engine. With an adequate or full charge on the battery, the gauge shows 3 green charging bars instead of any assist. The battery does not assist when accelerating uphill- sometimes. Then all of a sudden it works. Then it doesn't. Several times the car started using the old-fashioned starter method when turning the key. If the battery is not assisting when starting from a dead stop, there is practically no power and I crawl until the battery assist kicks in. The IMA light came on around 175,000 miles and I had the battery rebuilt by hybrid-battery-repair.com. There is a problem with the rebuilt battery and I wonder if that is the cause of all the problems.
Is there a device (the thing that says IMA and is under the hood) that coordinates the communication? The same thing is starting to happen with my 2010 Insight with 30,000 miles- the needle sometimes doesn't move when it should be showing either assist or charge.
I've been trying to search the forums for a similar problem but don't see it, unless this is a recal problem.
Is there a glossary of abbreviations on this site? Like what is CVT, ICE, SoC, recal?

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