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I'm thinking of buying a seriously used big machine for the 10 times, a year I need it - which one is best in P&G ?

Vooch- my 1998 Suburban 2wd P&G's pretty well. It takes about 20 seconds to drop from 35 to 30 mph. This is with it in D. I don't shut the motor off, or put it in N because my scan gauge couldn't detect any difference in instantaneous MPL between D and N.
I'm sure it would get better FE if I turned it off and put it in N, but that is too complicated for me.
I get about 16-16.5 mpg on my 16 mile all city drive to school using just motor on P&G. I don't shut down at redlights, but my calculations indicate I would get another 1-1.5 mpg if I did (approaching 18 mpg in pure city driving). I don't shut the motor off because of the high miles- 202,500 and the age.

I bought it for $2950 1 year ago with 195000 miles. The owner had put lots of $$ in recent repairs- $2000 at 185,000 miles for a trans rebuild and $2000 at 155,000 for AC, intake manifold gasket replacement, alternator etc.

It has been very reliable, and parts are cheap.I replaced the brake booster- $130 - water pump $55 - belt tensioner $35 - radiator $155. I also installed slightly stiffer than stock Bilstein shocks $215 Ebay.None of these repairs actually stopped me on the road; the radiator leak was up high, so it would just leak down,then more or less stop leaking (some vapor probably, but not much).

Last month I drove it 3021 miles to Flagstaff AZ (from New Orleans). It got a stunning 21.3 mpg (3021 miles 142 gallons) at 70 mph with the AC blasting. I was pretty surprised. Other than 43psi (it calls for 32 front /41 rear I think) in the slightly worn tires, Mobil 1 5W30 I didn't use any hypermiling trickery. I just put the CC at 70 mpg and steered. I have the 3.4 rear end(GU6 CODE) - most of the 2000 on models with the 5.3 have the 3.7 diff (GT4 glove box code). The RPMs at 60 mph are about the same since the 2000 on have 265/70 16 tires vs my 235/75 15 .

Might as well get a Suburban rather than a Tahoe- the mpg penalty is the same, but the Suburban can carry 4x8 building material with a closed tailgate/lift gate. The Excursion isn't very good(harsh ride, very thirsty), I would pass on it.

You can buy a 96-99 in decent shape- 100,000+ miles for $4000 or less - much less if you go high miles. For about 7500 you can get a 2000+ with 100,000 miles - for $10,000 or lessyou can get a very nice shape 2002 with under 70,000 miles.For $12000 or less you can buy a 60,000 mile 2004 great shape. These are LTs with leather etc and all the power this and that(which usually works). My 98 is a low trim LS and it has a power seat- (very comfortable), mirrors,windows-all works!!

There are plenty of old Suburbans- running ok- for $1500 or less.Despite mine running very well, and looking good, I doubt I might- might- get $2000 for it on private sale, and zero on trade in.They are like very comfortable, covered long bed pickups!

Charlie

Hi Vooch:

___Out on the highway, the FSP’s can really do the dance if you keep your speeds down. The MDX when driven by either Andrew or myself was pulling 31 with 6 and a load of gear while DWL around 50 – 55 mph. I have seen the non-hybrid Tahoe at 25 mpg doing the same. The 2-Mode can pull upwards of 35. All of these are expensive new or used for ten times a year you would need to drive them. Anyway, if those 3 FSP’s can pull great highway numbers, I have the feeling any of the big iron can if you can take it easy with them. I would stay away from the Ford Auto’s in the behemoths however. I was in a Lincoln Aviator rental a few years back and coming out of a FAS, it had no idea what gear to be in, what R’s it should run at or when to actually reengage. It was a danger trying to bring that monster back online. GM’s big iron with Auto’s, smooth as a babies bottom ;)

___Good Luck

___Wayne

Vooch,
I don't know why I mentioned the later years, you don't want to spend that kind of money just to get the 5.3.10 uses a year means as cheap as possible that runs. Besides, the EPA doesn't show the 5.3 getting consistently better mpg until 2002 (13/17 vs 96-99 12/17). Look for the GU6 code to get the 3.4 diff.GT4 is the 3.7 . The diff might not matter in city driving, but it will on the hy.

There are plenty of 96-99 with asking under $3000 and many with askings at $1500 or even $1000. Usually the difference between $2500 and $1500 is cosmetics and some of the options-ac,power seats,mirrors - don't work. You can find one suitable for your use for $1500 or less .Insurance is low - no point in getting theft - just liability. The windshields are very resistant to rocks - not sure why.

You can immediately drop the 3 rd seat=70 lbs(I actually weighed it) and the spare = 60 lbs(a guess). If you pull the second row - pure thing hauler - you lose at least 100 lbs net (guess). You can easily cover the "hole" with 3/8"plywood. This will give about 107" of length instead of 98" and 49" wide.

It is hard to look at the cargo bay and not think of a crude EV setup. A false floor could hide 20+ batteries, and a very low powered electric motor - maybe just 20 hp - could drive it to the 35 mph you need in the city with just a freewheeled sprocket on the driveshaft and a chain tensioner . You could leave the entire ICE setup in place- lots of room to work.

I'm fairly sure the 5.7 can get 24 mpg at ~60+ mph. My 5.7 got 21.3 at 70 mph with just 43 psi, Mobil 1 and using the CC. Full hypermiling in the city can approach 20 mpg once warm. I'm tempted to try 0W30 Mobil 1.

Worn tires are probably a plus and better yet they are a bargaining point. The tires for the 99 and earlier are fairly cheap, narrow 235/75 15 , not the 265/70 16 on later models.

Charlie

I'm thinking of buying a seriously used big machine for the 10 times, a year I need it - which one is best in P&G ?

Is it cheaper to rent one when you need it?

No, it isn't cheaper to rent, not when you can buy for $1000 or so. It costs well over $100/d to rent a big SUV , but a bit less to rent a long bed pickup.

The problem with renting is that you can't really do it spur of the moment. If you like to garage sale "hunt", you really can't rent. If you need it for a once every 2 year evacuation, you really can't rent. I was also surprised to find out that I couldn't rent a minivan for a multistate vacation. I forget the details, but they really don't want to rent a vehicle for a long-3000 mile-trip.

Big, older high mile SUVs are cheap enough now - many decent runners for under $1500, and really nice ones (cosmetically and functionally ) for $3000.

It is hard to put a price on convenience but under $3000 means that it makes sense to buy rather than rent if you have enough use for it. Another point, the resales are poor and getting poorer, but many will remain on the road for a long time. Buying for $2000 means it is approaching what you could part it out for once you have no need for it. If it runs, it will always have some value.

Buying new now is a bad idea for a lot of reasons the most obvious being that you can get used and low miles for 1/3 the price.

Suburbans are great stuff and people haulers- you can stuff a huge couch in them and still close to hatch or doors.They are giant minivans - with cheap parts and reasonable reliability. They are thirsty city vehicles of course - casually driven 10-11 mpg is common.

Charlie

Thanks - these are very helpful

If you really need it for a few times a year, just rent it.

When you buy a vehicle you spend on:

Purchase price
State / National taxes on purchase price
Gas
Oil
Maintenance costs
Registration / Title
Smog test
Insurance
....

Did you get a vehicle? I ran across this guy's achievement with a Ford Explorer.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44372&highlight=quest

He's been tracking his mileage for 6 1/2 years on the explorer forum. On page 75, he is getting 36.4 mpg at 66.8 mph.

"Tested 3 new tunes on this trip.

first = 34.7 MPG average speed 67.2 MPH
second = 36.4 MPG avg speed 66.8 MPH
third = 33.4 MPG avg speed 67.4 MPH"

think about a Dodge ran with Cummings:flag: turbo. My 05 gets 37 highway and 24 city.
john

Did you get a vehicle? I ran across this guy's achievement with a Ford Explorer.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44372&highlight=quest

He's been tracking his mileage for 6 1/2 years on the explorer forum. On page 75, he is getting 36.4 mpg at 66.8 mph.

"Tested 3 new tunes on this trip.

first = 34.7 MPG average speed 67.2 MPH
second = 36.4 MPG avg speed 66.8 MPH
third = 33.4 MPG avg speed 67.4 MPH"

I'm a member of that forum. I've PM'd him several times and he ignores all my messages and posts.
Seems that my ideas of how to acheive the same mileage without near the expense of all those mods, is a taboo subject there.

Any speed less than 50 mph and my explorer owns him all the time. I'd love to compete against him in a FE challenge.

He is experimenting with HHO now.....go figure.

Hello. I have an 05 Tahoe 5.3L. I am just happy that I have increased my mpg from 17 to 21.2 in the city by max tire psi, removing roof rack and P&G. It is a nice ride, great for towing and just to brutal to trade. I did get a Mariner Hybrid for my Wife. It is SWEET! She gets 32.1 mpg city without even trying.

amazing numbers for the mariner !