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I have the coastal ev mod with the 2 second delay, so I try to time it so it engages just as I hit 33 mph, starting the pull when passing 30-31, trying to avoid going through regen while waiting for it to engage. As it engages, I go into glide mode.

But, I notice that there is a lunge that happens as ev engages, I suspect this is the transmission/engine releasing/stopping from the acceleration rpm. This is much greater than the release you feel when going from regen coast to glide.

So my question is, is this not good for the car/fe?

Should I let rpms get down in the 1200 range before engaging like a standard glide when in s3/4?

I have the coastal ev mod with the 2 second delay, so I try to time it so it engages just as I hit 33 mph, starting the pull when passing 30-31, trying to avoid going through regen while waiting for it to engage. As it engages, I go into glide mode.

But, I notice that there is a lunge that happens as ev engages, I suspect this is the transmission/engine releasing/stopping from the acceleration rpm. This is much greater than the release you feel when going from regen coast to glide.

So my question is, is this not good for the car/fe?

Should I let rpms get down in the 1200 range before engaging like a standard glide when in s3/4?

Perhaps no one has come across this scenario before?... So what were you
hoping to accomplish? A quicker means to go into EV mode right after you've
accelerated to 33 mph? I think your last statement is a reasonable approach.
Other people (without the EV button) just use foot control of brake and
accelerator to get into EV mode, right?

cheers,
Bill

I'll let the engineers handle the "good for the car" question.

I do notice a somewhat abrasive transition, but it's never been harsh enough for me to stop. From a practical stand point, I find that the benefits of 30-33 acceleration followed by activation / EV / glide are often significant, in that I need every one of those mphs to continue P&G in a high speed 40mph situation.

Having said that, to start my day I have a hill to climb followed by a long downhill. I can usually decellerate from 33 to 30 at 1200rpms, activate EV, glide, and then warp neutral without incident. That transition is noticeably calmer than the good ol':

(1) 31 mph pull
(2) 32 mph wait
(3) 33 mph activate & hope for no 34
(4) low side of 34 mph EV / glide / warp neutral
(5) 35 mph warp neutral woohoo! pulled it off :)

Honestly, won't it be great when these games come to an end? When I can surge & glide up to 60mph without having to pull a rabbit out of a hat? :)

If I had to put up with the coastal 2-second delay every time
I did that too, I think I would go mad.
.
_H*

If I had to put up with the coastal 2-second delay every time
I did that too, I think I would go mad.
.
_H*
Ditto. I'd definately suggest putting down the $50 for the button.

The lurch you feel is the veto of the engine after the HSD has already committed to lighting. Basically (I think) HSD spins the engine then lights it. This probably happens faster than the SG can hit it, since mine updates only every 1-2 seconds. I can't answer your MPH question since I'm in KPH. I go KPH for this very reason. What I've found is that HSD will kick me out of EV at 55 KPH. If the engine is at a light load it's at about 55.5 KPH if it's at a heavy load (hill) its at about 54.5 KPH. So I accelerate up to 52 KPH and then hit the button. I lurch through 53, then EV up to 54. At the high side of 54 I shift to N then I'm in my glide and remove my foot from the pedal.

So if I'm watching the speedo and clock it looks like this.

speed(kph) 49 50 51 52 53 54 53 52
clock(sec) - 0 - 1 - -e- 3 - 4 n 5 - 6 - 7 - 9 -
speed(mph) 31 32 33 34

Key:
'e' on clock is when I need to hit the EV button
'n' on clock is when I need to get the shifter to Neutral to keep from lighting the ICE.

My problem with MPH is that it's easy enough for me to hit the EV button between 32 and 33, but if the speedo rolls over to 34 the ice lights. I only have one graduation on the scale to hit my mark. With KPH I get 3 graduations on the scale for sure, and can on occation still make my glide if I fall into the '54 kph range'. So the "spinal tap" argument of getting an AMP that goes to eleven actually can be useful. It's kinda like if you could get the speedo in MPH to go 30.0 - 30.5 - 31.0 - 31.5 - 32.0 - 32.5 - 33.0 - 33.5 ... etc.

So... back on subject, I usually EV for 1-2 kph before lighting the engine, and EV for 1-2 kph after shutting down the engine. This ensures that the ICE goes through the full spin down and has a nice spin up. At least that's my theory. It hasn't hurt my MPG, so it must be helping.

11011011

Just so much easier to just go up to 35mph, feather and glide than to screw with the EV. You'll have perpetual headaches with trying to engage while accelerating. Better yet, at your first opportunity stop for 5-7 seconds after you're warmed up (with the ICE running) and wait for it to shut off to get into S4...then you can feather into a glide at any speed you wish.

And I agree...that 2 second delay would make me insane.

My original reason for posting was to determine if it was bad to be on the accelerator while engaging EV, fuel is burning , transmission is transmissioning, does it harm the car to do so?

With the 2 second delay, if I let off the gas as I engage I'll lose 2 mph while waiting for the delay, so trying for perfect execution.

Reasons for playing with EV is many drives in the winter I'll barely hit 60C, no chance for above 34 glide once crossing 70C.

Many drives aren't even long enough to get battery temp above 0C to be able to engage EV, so it is difficult at times.

I don't think there's any way you can do any harm, but I'll tell you that at those kinds of temps if you have even slight pressure on the accelerator you won't be able to engage EV. If you're talking only about having pressure on the accelerator during your 2 second delay period then there's also no harm there as the only thing going on during that time is some circuit induced delay in the Coastal EV switch. Remember that engaging EV is just a momentary switch that gives a signal to the HV ECU...all other protective parameters are programmed in specifically to prevent you from harming anything.