Archives

:(:(:( got the code pulled at autozone and was p1447

on my way to work it did a recal and dropped down to 4-5 bars and lite the ima light and when i got to work was at 20 bars and light still on. after work i drove to autozone and got the code pulled. I did a relearn amd now showing 20 bars and no light but wondering how long that will last.


not sure what i'm gonna do now :o:o:o

Well when the light stays on then you will need to find out why Mike! Is your car on the originally pack. What is your mileage? Some HCH2 owners deal with this on a daily bases. Hopefully it was just a hiccup! A new pack is not that expensive anyway? H

Do you know when it was sold new? You have a 10 year 150,000 mile warranty.

Do you know when it was sold new? You have a 10 year 150,000 mile warranty.

As Mike suggests, check the warranty first.

You can clear the IMA light, but do it ONLY if your warranty has expired. Your battery pack is definitely deteriorating.

To clear the IMA light, the fuse box is under the coin tray...4th? fuse on the lower bank if cleared for 5-10 seconds will clear the codes and car will do the recall. A cruder way is disconnect the 12v, but that clears the radio stations.

Be advised the dealer will know if you cleared it, so again check the warranty first.

I've already cleared the code and light is off. i did the relearn and soc is at 20 bars. I know this is just temp and light will go on again.

not feeling very good about this. 1 week of owning it and already.................

I know about hybridbatteryrepair.com, not sure if i can do something like that myself, but i "made my bed, now i gotta lay in it"

Hey Mike,
What would it set you back to get a rebuilt pack from Reinvolt.com? H

Harold, there website shows it would be $1700 plus shipping.

Hybrid-battery-repair.com would be about $1250 plus shipping which is about $200 and that included him sending you a box that you can use.

He also help you set your car up so you can still drive it without the big battery and keep the 12v charging.

I'lll probly go that route. what else can i do? :confused:

Hybrid Battery Repair lists it at $1000 + $200 max shipping. If you can hold out till Green Drive Expo in July, you might be able to pick it up there for a discount.

The green drive expo is a bit far for me. I'm in florida.

Well i figured out how to take the ima battery out of the loop and still keep my 12v charging.

I knew it wasn't fast but it feel so different now. plus the fcd reads alot lower when getting up tp speed even at the low rates i use. oh well at least i can get lean burn once i'm into 4th and 5th.

Do you think you will add a pack in the future? I suppose how well your Insight performs without the pack will dictate that? H

Harold, I most likely will. right now when driving the fcd reads lower during acceleration. but goes into lean burn whereas before it wouldn't unless the soc was 18 bars or more. I'll have to see what numbers i get going to work tommorrow.

Let us know the difference. Should be interesting? H

Mike, what did you do? Just flip the IMA switch or unplug the BCM?

You have to accelerate more slowly but you should still be able to get really good mileage. I essentially never use assist and you've seen my numbers.

Sean, I unplugged the bcm. There are three connections there that you have to unplug then that takes the ima battery out and will keep the 12v charging.

If you decide to go the route of having Ron rebuild your battery he'll send you a spare junction board to plug in while the battery is physically out of the car. It will then behave just as you see it working now. (The junction board is essentially the left plastic plate on the battery pack case where the high voltage cables attach.) You'll be driving like that for a while because it takes time to cycle all the sticks and figure out which ones are weak, then match up other sticks with the same (or very similar) characteristics for rebuild purposes.

Per Chuck's advice above please contact Honda to find out if you are still within the warranty period for the IMA system. If your car has a late in-service date it is just possible you are still in warranty. In that case you'd need to have the IMA light lit for them to do anything.

No warrenty. :( The guy i bought it from told me he was second owner and the person he bought it from told him he got it when they first came out. I had called him to see if he received the title from the bank cause it still had a lien he had to pay off. he said it came in then asked how was the lil car doing and thats when i told him. he seemed generaly shocked and concerned and told me he would help me to get it taken care of.


I'm thinking about reconecting the bcm and seeing what difference that make in my trip to work.

Mike,
Been where you are at. Is this the first time the IMA light has come on? My experience was at first after you reset everything it was quite a while before it failed again. Then as time went by it would fail almost out of the garage. You might have time to save up for the rebuild. Letting the car sit even for few days would almost guarantee a recal followed by the IMA failure. Yes, you can get by without the battery but climbing hills can be a real challenge especially if you can not get a run at them. If you send it to Ron figure on it being gone almost a month. Since he replaces only the "bad" sticks, it is hard to tell exactly what it will end up costing.

Wayne

What is a bad stick?

It's more than an imbalanced batteries - Ron can refurbish them.

A "bad" battery is one that heats up so much it leaks - permanent damage...they get replaced.

For that reason, a P1449 is probably more concern than a P1447.

"Bad sticks" are ones with lower amp hour capacity than the rest and/or higher internal resistance (which can show up as a faster self discharge rate). These things cause a recal event at considerably lower than standard battery pack capacity and can cause excessive heating. It doesn't have to heat up enough to vent, just enough to trigger the electronics to go into a safe mode -- ie, "IMA light on."

Ron will replace sticks that do not perform at the level of the rest of the sticks with others that are matched as closely as possible to the "good sticks" in the pack. The process of identifying sticks that need to be replaced and matching up other sticks with the same characteristics is what takes so long. He has special equipment which can cycle batteries at an accelerated rate but it still takes a long time. This is one of the disadvantages of having a pack made up of a lot of smaller cells (and ours are made up of 120 D-Cell sized batteries).

Good luck and let us know how you progress with whatever route you decide to follow!