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http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/quickies.htm

I got alittle confused with the oil recommendations. I thought 0W-20 was best...

I can't find a single piece of truth anywhere in the first 2 pages of that.

I'm not going to say it's 100% bunk, but most of it doesn't make any sense. The bit about 10% ethanol fuels decreasing mileage by 25-55% is utter crap, for example. If anybody can prove or disprove that with data its us, and I simply don't see it. Last summer I pulled seven consecutive 40mpg+ tanks on E10 in my Accord, and on the occasions that I just let the car do its thing on cruise I was still in the high 30s...well over the EPA rating. It doesn't work in theory, either. Ethanol has on the order of 30% less energy by volume as gasoline, so a E10 mixture contains only 3% less. I would expect roughly the same reductionin FE: ~3%. A 25-50% reduction in mileage from a fuel with only 3% less energy means horrendous inefficiencies due to poor combustion. We're talking about an engine that barely runs.

If he claimed 25% reduction in efficiency from a 85% ethanol blend (E85) I would be inclined to believe him, as that's in line with sound thermodynamic analysis. But it is very clear that this is not his allegation. So either he didn't take the time or doesn't know how to run the numbers properly, or else he's pulling this out of his you-know-where for reasons that I couldn't even guess at. And if he's that wrong about the first thing on the page, why should I believe him about anything else? In short, I won't.

Even when he gets started off right...like asserting that you shouldn't rev a cold engine, which is common sense...he goes off and tells me that atmospheric pressure will prevent an oil pump from flowing oil when the engine is cold. WTH does that even mean? Oil pumps are good for way over atmospheric pressure, hot or cold. All it has to do is spin.

I recommend using high quality oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications. Honda isn't trying to sabotage your engine because they depend on their reputation for longevity.

Wow. The premise of the article is in the right place (improving MPG :D) but those numbers just make no sense. Brick has it right about what kind of MPG hit you *should* see from E10. The part I don't get is recommending a scangauge (a good recommendation ;) ) and still making these crazy claims - which you could debunk by using a scangauge! As mentioned (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510) elsewhere (http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3332), what's going to have the most impact is driving style. The article sort of offhandedly mentions tire pressure, which is also near the top in terms of MPG impact, easy to do, and won't mess with your engine internals. The thick oil part is bunk too, just go with the oil weight that's recommended in your manual (it was put there for a reason). Any choice beyond that (synthetic, etc) is up to you.

Other warning signs:
-randomly Capitalized Words :rolleyes:
-pushing "magic pills" (in this case fuel additives)
-lots of claims without data

I thought the worst part was when he was talking about MythBusters and saying how they got paid off or something. I was just like WHAT DID YOU JUST SAY. It's not like the MythBusters would get anything out of lying, and based on their reputation I have no reason to doubt them.

The thing with the Acetone doesn't make sense either. How does adding 3 oz. of Acetone double your MPG? They basically said the 3 oz. of Acetone had as much energy as 10 gallons of gas. If that were true I would think we'd be running on Acetone and not gasoline.

Wow. The style of the "report" indicates it's essentially junk information. Facts and opinions are presented lumped together, all presented as "fact". However there are few if any references to back up the information given.

Re. oil viscosity, it's ridiculous to state that some particular weight will give the best fuel economy for all vehicles. And the ridiculous plug for one particular brand!

A quick perusal of owners manuals for cars of different years and different manufacturers will often show different oil types being specified. Personally I would only use a weight that was spec'd for the engine that's in my car. Usually this gives you a choice of two or three types so you still have some room for your own personal discretion. I suspect that thinner oil is easier to pump so I go with that, within the range of what's spec'd for my car.

For in-depth oil information, pay a visit to bobistheoilguy.com

Louis LaPointe, eh? The same guy who's all over the acetone
myth over at Pure Energy Systems (http://peswiki.com/index.php?Title=Main_Page), where you might
as well be reading about crystal mysticism most of the time.
Red flag city -- don't be fooled. They drop just enough
actual fact in to make the gullible think they know what
they're talking about.
.
So I would say that it's 100% bunk, with one or two fortunate
coincidences that happen to be right.
.
_H*