View Full Version : ‘Bikes’ help save bucks at the pumps
Right Lane Cruiser 10-22-2008, 09:22 AM “They parked them, but kind of forgot about them until gas was $3.90 a gallon.” (http://www.midlothianexchange.com/index.php/news/article/bikes-help-save-bucks-at-the-pumps/17476/)
http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/501/2007_BMW_K1200.jpgElizabeth Farina - Midlothian Exchange.com (http://www.midlothianexchange.com) - Oct. 22, 2008
We could experience a lasting 2-wheeled boom. - Ed.
Filling up the gas tank has made a dent in many household budgets over the last several months. Even with prices declining to $2.61 per gallon for regular unleaded, three cents cheaper than last year’s per gallon price according to AAA’s Daily Fuel Gauge Report, it still is leaving a crimp in the family’s wallet. In fact, per-gallon average price peaked over $4 in mid-July.
With the nation’s economy in a flux and the unknown gas prices of tomorrow, many commuters have sought out transportation alternatives from taking the Chesterfield Express bus line or connecting with GRTC’s Ridefinders. Some are seeking out fellow colleagues on their own for a carpooling arrangement. Other drivers have researched an option of purchasing hybrid vehicles. However, there are drivers that are taking a second look at what they have on hand - a motorcycle.
For Midlothian-based Outkasst Cycles, located at 3907 Bellson Park Dr., the spike in gas prices this summer has been an incredible boom for business. “This gas thing is weird. There are people who are pulling bikes out that would never … but they are,” said owner Tom Giambra. “We have definitely… http://www.midlothianexchange.com/index.php/news/article/bikes-help-save-bucks-at-the-pumps/17476/
Goes along with what a contributor to Cycle World magazine noted. He said that in past spikes in the cost of gas, there really wasn't a perceivable increase in motorcycle sales.
This time, and I quote, "Is the real deal."
gershon 10-22-2008, 10:32 AM Our local dealership had a great summer, up until the end of August. Then credit tightened up and people couldn't afford a down payment.
As for saving money with a bike, there are a lot of factors that go into it.
I did a total cost analysis for my Yamaha Majesty which gets about 55 mpg in the city. I found that the total savings including all costs was about 14 cents a mile.
One factor many people forget is the depreciation per mile on the car, plus the savings are tax free. At this rate, it would take about 42,000 miles just to break even. (I have a cheap car that only cost $7,000 new.) For a more expensive car, break even might be about 20,000 miles.
Personally, I don't recommend a bike to save gas unless a person already has one and really enjoys riding. Then the cost of the bike can be ignored as that's a sunk cost. Still, it's a bother to put all the gear on for a trip of just a few miles and I seldom do it.
Showbizk 10-22-2008, 10:35 AM Man, I love riding my bike! I'd do it every day, every time if the weather permitted. This morning I toyed with the idea, since it's going to be sunny and 50+, but it was 35 when I was ready to leave, so discretion prevailed...
Earthling 10-22-2008, 10:54 AM The bike in the photo is a BMW K1200, 167-horsepower rocket ship. It's not your Daddy's BMW, that's for sure.
Harry
Chuck 10-22-2008, 11:21 AM Someone at work challenged me to find a 500cc bike at a store now. ;)
voodoo22 10-22-2008, 11:42 AM I wish I could trust drivers enough to drive a bike on my commute.
w4wfm 10-22-2008, 12:06 PM Amen, voodoo22.
I sure do not trust the drivers around me that much.
A good Honda 230cc single would do fine, but it, nor any other bike, is safe in the traffic I drive in.
My BMW was a R75/5. That might have been your daddy's bike. It only got about 55 mpg. My HCHII gets that. It is nice to be warm and dry.
Frank
Yarisman 10-22-2008, 02:09 PM I bought my Yamaha 650 VStar 2 years ago when the gas prices started going up. I wasn't getting great mileage in town, averaging 32-35 mpg. I moved to another city and started commuting the 55 miles to my office and have started getting 50+ mpg.
For those wanting to get great mileage in town, get a scooter and get the 70+mpg, a real bike really isn't going to help a lot. Much more fun, but not really the answer to the high gas prices that I originally thought it would be.
alvaro84 07-17-2010, 05:16 AM We were discussing this 'saving' point of owning a motorcycle at a Hungarian forum lately and I summed up all the maintenance cost vs gas price I had with Teresa.
I bought her 2 years ago at the age of 4 years. In a year I had to do all the maintenance that the previous owner should have done, then get new tires and, this spring, a new drive belt. In the end, these costs adds to about 1.5 times the price of the gas I used until that point (I can't do too much myself, yet?).
I should have bought a used car for the same price (nothing fancy, but a decent, reliable one) the maintenance cost would probably have been much lower, and the gas probably twice this much.
Maybe a wash.
Add my gear: cordura pants and jacket, heated and leather gloves, the helmet, boots... riding is definitely more expensive for me than a car would be.
But I enjoy riding much more, I think :)
And I have much nicer FE - more like a hybrid than a second-hand small gasoline car.
But if I enjoy it too much, I collect much more miles compared to a car strictly for serious business - I can't help it... and still less gas than with a car, even though it means more cost for me.
Though I did the whole bike thing and hypermiling as a form of 'damage control' - I wanted to live with my girlfriend instead of my (smoking!) mother, and I needed some vehicle for my new, independent life (and commuting from another city after I failed to get a job there). But I know enough about peak oil and climate change and stuff to feel uneasy for burning gas...
seftonm 07-17-2010, 10:03 PM There is no way my bike is going to save me money on fuel. Insurance alone on it is more than I spend on fuel for my car in a year. I like it because it is fun to get on and ride, and I am ok with having to spend more money to own and ride it.
beatr911 07-18-2010, 11:02 AM Careful bike and gear selection and shopping around for good yet inexpensive insurance go a long way. Not just any old bike will do. Total cost of ownership is the defining factor. If you already have a 50+ mpg car then owning a bike makes little financial sense in most cases. If you're stuck with a FSP that you don't use for its size or power, buy a used 500cc or less bike. Also, riding is a commitment. You won't see the benefit if you don't ride. Be sure you will ride at least 5 or 6 thousand miles a year or whatever makes the financial decision work for you.
In my case I make a point to use the most appropriate vehicle for the situation. The motorcycle gets used for the single occupancy drive to work, the pick-up for hauling stuff and doing yard projects around the property, the van for when the family needs to travel or those combined shopping trips.
As for riding for pleasure. I used to do that, now I don't except for maybe once a year with some friends. Knowing the combined impact of burning fuel just makes it not so fun anymore.
southerncannuck 07-18-2010, 11:36 AM There is no way my bike is going to save me money on fuel. Insurance alone on it is more than I spend on fuel for my car in a year. I like it because it is fun to get on and ride, and I am ok with having to spend more money to own and ride it.The canadian government treats motorcycles as if they were a detriment to the country. Tags and insurance up there are very high. I pay $60a year for insurance on my 153cc bike in the US. I think it's because of your government run medical insurance. There is a big incentive to get the population to quit doing risky things.
Mendel Leisk 07-18-2010, 12:43 PM My license allows me to ride a bike, but too many factors put me off:
1. Danger. I guess I just grew up: it's not worth the risk.
2. Price. It's just a headshaker: paying compact car prices for a 2 wheeler.
3. Choices. It's either a "racer", a "cruiser" or a "dirt" bike. There are very few if any bikes purpose-built for urban commuting, at least in North America.
4. Displacement. Honda's sport bikes are a case in point: what is their mini-racer? 150cc? The next step: the 600cc CBR. Nothing in between.
5. With the racer bikes in particular, tuning emphasis is towards "keeping the rev's up". My last bike was a CBR, maybe 20 years back. It's consumption rivaled an compact car.
warthog1984 07-18-2010, 03:07 PM My license allows me to ride a bike, but too many factors put me off:
1. Danger. I guess I just grew up: it's not worth the risk.
2. Price. It's just a headshaker: paying compact car prices for a 2 wheeler.
3. Choices. It's either a "racer", a "cruiser" or a "dirt" bike. There are very few if any bikes purpose-built for urban commuting, at least in North America.
4. Displacement. Honda's sport bikes are a case in point: what is their mini-racer? 150cc? The next step: the 600cc CBR. Nothing in between.
5. With the racer bikes in particular, tuning emphasis is towards "keeping the rev's up". My last bike was a CBR, maybe 20 years back. It's consumption rivaled an compact car.
@Mendel-
Danger is all a matter of how you approach riding. The other four are easily solved if you check out older UJMs (Universal Japanese Motorcycles / "standards"), or just take the 555 (http://www.citybike.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=261&Itemid=111) approach.
I know my Bandit will be fairly cheap to run and excellent for commuting minus the soft fork- an early 90s 400cc version or more recent Honda CB250 would do even better.
Hi Mendel:
My license allows me to ride a bike, but too many factors put me off:
1. Danger. I guess I just grew up: it's not worth the risk.
2. Price. It's just a headshaker: paying compact car prices for a 2 wheeler.
3. Choices. It's either a "racer", a "cruiser" or a "dirt" bike. There are very few if any bikes purpose-built for urban commuting, at least in North America.
4. Displacement. Honda's sport bikes are a case in point: what is their mini-racer? 150cc? The next step: the 600cc CBR. Nothing in between.
5. With the racer bikes in particular, tuning emphasis is towards "keeping the rev's up". My last bike was a CBR, maybe 20 years back. It's consumption rivaled an compact car.
We cannot deny their is a risk in riding a bike. No doubt about it.
Brand new 2009 Kawasaki KLX250SF's can be had for just $3,500. It is a steal!
Dual-sport or Supermoto work great in the twisties, absolutely rip up on the pavement and can be ridden across Continents without ever touching the asphalt if need be.
WRT Honda, the CRF230L and M are two great commuters. Pricey at $5K plus for what you get but are great commuters.
Bike's today still rival a compact car although when pushed, its the fastest way to 100 mpg there is. Read the XT250, CRF230L and KLX250SF Reviews for more.
Good Luck
Wayne
alvaro84 07-19-2010, 01:45 AM Brand new 2009 Kawasaki KLX250SF's can be had for just $3,500. It is a steal!
2. It's almost $7000 in Hungary... and the Ninja 250 is no cheaper either :eek: No wonder I bought a second hand bike, these insane prices freefall once you bring a bike out of the shop...
I'd like to try them though, it must be fun! And I'm curious what FE I could reach with it. With our GV250 I still couldn't catch my F650, neither did my girlfriend. When we're going at speeds where Ciliegia is more efficient, I always P&G like crazy. It's a competition, a game :D
seftonm 07-19-2010, 02:23 PM The canadian government treats motorcycles as if they were a detriment to the country. Tags and insurance up there are very high. I pay $60a year for insurance on my 153cc bike in the US. I think it's because of your government run medical insurance. There is a big incentive to get the population to quit doing risky things.
It's not so much a national thing as it is provincial or insurance company related. If I were living in Saskatchewan instead of Manitoba, my bike insurance would be about 1/5 of what it is here. Manitobans pay ridiculous amounts for motorcycle insurance. Even comparing a 150cc scooter to a 125cc bike, Manitobans will pay about 4x more to insure the bike.
alvaro84 07-19-2010, 05:27 PM Hm $60 insurance for a 150cc sounds a bit harsh :eek: - though I've heard that there are places with expensive insurances, like the UK.
At last, something that's not expensive here... at today's exchanege rate the insurance is $18 per year for the 250cc and $77 for the 650cc. (I don't know how it goes in the US, but we have to pay taxes for them too: something like $23 and $50 per year)
seftonm 07-19-2010, 06:19 PM Wow. I can only dream of something like that. Insurance for my 125cc bike is $1400 per year. That's more than I pay my car. And half the bike's purchase price.
alvaro84 07-20-2010, 02:14 AM Wow. I can only dream of something like that. Insurance for my 125cc bike is $1400 per year. That's more than I pay my car. And half the bike's purchase price.
That's simply scary :eek:
They really want to discourage people :mad:
It's enough for me that at the company I don't have any compensation for commuting by motorcycle while I'd get it by having a car - but damnit, I won't buy a cage just to get some gas money...
(Are you really talking about the compulsory insurance??? :eek:)
jcp123 07-21-2010, 11:48 PM Yeah between insurance, expensive-ass tires, and the scheduled maintenances, any fuel cost advantage has evaporated...
seftonm 07-22-2010, 12:06 AM (Are you really talking about the compulsory insurance??? :eek:)
More or less. I think I upgraded the liability a little. But that only added about $50 to the insurance cost. Oh, and that $1400 is after a 25% discount for a clean driving record.
worthywads 07-22-2010, 12:58 AM Seems Canada has figured out that motorcycles are not a savings to the health care system? Or maybe they see the tax base is diminished if riders stop paying in after death?
I have that deaths on motorcycles is about 37 times the number in cars, fact stuck in my head.
http://www.iihs.org/research/fatality_facts_2008/motorcycles.html
My life is worth more than a few bucks.
seftonm 07-22-2010, 12:30 PM Again, the rates are not a national thing. Rates vary widely with insurance companies and some are (I hear) similar to rates Americans pay. We only have one vehicle insurance company in Manitoba and that's why I have to pay so much.
beatr911 07-22-2010, 12:53 PM Other than insurance, which it seems can be disproportionately expensive to the risk depending on the insurer, performing your own maintenance can shave significant dollars off the cost of ownership.
Most motorcycles are much less complicated than cars and trucks. Sure maintenance intervals are more frequent, but what there is to do is often relatively simple and easy to access with a very minor amount of effort. As a rider, one should be inspecting the bike on a regular basis anyway, so getting to know the bike a little more intimately by doing basic maintenance is the next logical step.
Speaking from experience, unless you happen to find a good trustworthy motorcycle repair shop, if you can learn how to change your own engine oil, you can wrench as well as the mechanic at the shop. Online forums can teach you alot about maintenance basics and the characteristics of your particular bike that the mechanic probably isn't aware of.
Hi All:
Following with Beatr911, the Yamaha WR250X I will be taking to Boston possibly this weekend or next has a 26,000 mile Valve job interval. Oil changes are $6.00 for a quart of synthetic. If you can spin a wrench you can certainly change your own as everything is accessible and easy to do unlike a car or truck in most cases.
Tires are indeed a problem. I suspect if people were not ripping on their bikes so much, most would last 5 to 7,500 for the sticky rubber and an easy 20K for the Radial touring tires out there. Fortunately there are only two tires to replace vs. 4 for a cage…. Similarly, tire prices are slightly less for Motorcycle tires depending on what you get. The $12.00 I paid to a Sam’s Club Tire guy to swap the Bridgestone BT90’s out for the Avon Distanzia’s was not to bad either. Much less than a car change for sure!
Mike, with bike insurance rates in your area, I would not be riding either. Too bad too as it is such a joy and a fuel saver at the same time. And talk about a small carbon footprint. 200 to 500 pounds of bike is a lot less energy to build than a 2,500 to 8,000 pound car or truck.
Now I have to get back and finish the final wiring and lowering the rear of WR250X for its upcoming IB and 100-mpg Adventure Challenge and Expedition ;)
2010 Yamaha WR250X
http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/523/2010_Yamaha_WR250X_-_Right_Rear.jpg
Fully Dressed…
http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/523/Wheels_Off.jpg
Partially undressed
http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/523/Naked.jpg
Fully undressed
http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/523/Coming_Together.jpg
Almost fully dressed again…
What $200 worth of tools can do for a bike that you would never be able to do with a car…
A bike can save money but you had better have inexpensive insurnace and ride a lot to make up for the difference in car $/mile.
Good Luck
Wayne
alvaro84 07-23-2010, 03:08 AM I'm in the learning phase. I've already done oil change, coolant change and air filter change. I can check and restore battery acid level too, so if there's nothing else I can do the smaller maints that are once per 10,000 km. Valve check at every 20,000 km is a bit scary for me yet, so is anything that involves meddling with the brakes and wheels (changing brake fluid must be complicated on a bike with ABS).
Teresa also had a toothed belt change, it includes removing the whole rear swingarm, it's way over my head. I hope the new belt will last real long. I know someone who had one of his 3 belts for 90k miles. Mine was a goner in 63k km = 39k miles. I think the main problem is that it became 6 years old in the meantime. I'll put more kms in the next in a shorter time... (7,500 so far in the new belt, replaced in early May)
Next service for her is the 60,000 one, so it means a workshop, but if there won't be any particular at 70k, she stays home for the oil/filter change.
Ciliegia has a shorter service interval, have to change oil at every 5,000 (may be because of the smaller engine, higher revs, less oil); has less electronics so it must be simplier to tinker with. Already done oil and air filter change (with some help from someone in the village) and chain tensioning (the original chain was pretty worn and had to tension it every 700km or so...); but the next service will be a 20,000 for her, so it includes valve check and carb sync too, I presume.
She had a chain replace and front brake pad replace done in a workshop (it's a nice one, not too expensive and recommended by the Hungarian Hyosung community board; now they're the default for both of our bikes); must not be too difficult to do though, next time I'll try to take care of these things. You don't have to take half of the bike apart for a chain replace, after all... and though it scares me to mess with the brakes the pad change looked so quick and simple that it must be something I can do too. What's unknown to me is the rear brake, which is a drum.
These are our first vehicles so we're total beginners. But as time goes, I'll get tools to do more. At least our latest rent has a garage, which is a must for any, little bit complicated operation.
(p.s. I'm curious how long these new tyres will last on Teresa - I got the last set used and I used them for 21,000kms. Present ones are (have them since last October) 12,000kms old and I can see some wear on them - I just don't know how much is this 'some'. Ciliegia still has the factory ones after 17,700kms and it seems that the rear one will last forever, but the front one looks quite worn, though it still has the necessary tread depth. Strange, but true.)
beatr911 07-23-2010, 01:52 PM Congratulations for venturing in to do your own maintenance! Do what you're comforable with and be curious how to do the other things.
Best thing to do now is obtain a factory service manual for your distinct bike, you know, the one from the manufacturer. They are pricey, but they designed and built your bike and know it like no other. If you are at all interested in doing more repairs and maintenance, it will save you untold hours of agony and frustration making it a real bargain.
You are right, changing brake pads is pretty darn simple. Be sure they completely renew ALL the brake fluid in the system while they are at it. Most people don't do it in thier vehicles, but replacing the brake fluid every 2-3 years makes the brake hardware last nearly indefinitely. Most manufacturers specify this in the manual but it seldom gets done.
On the other hand since you found a good shop, use them until you find thier limits.
alvaro84 07-24-2010, 01:10 AM Yes, this 'all' brake fluid is the point where I would fail. Somehow you have to get the ABS open the 'extra' brake fluid lines. According to the manufacturer it can be done by a special instrument that connects to the forgot-the-name bus of the bike, but it seems the shops know a way around :D
Anyway, I've already downloaded the service manuals, they're available thanks to both communities :) I wouldn't even try to do any maintenance without them, as I don't have any experience from before. There are written and video how-tos too :)
And if everything goes well, we won't have to replace brake pads too often in the manner we ride these bikes :D Even though since I came to hypermiling sites I use the friction brakes more than before as I almost completely gave up on engine braking (Ciliegia has carbs so no DFCO, and while Teresa is fuel injected, she seems to be quite picky about it - plus it's better to anticipate more and coast down to the desired speed :))
beatr911 08-12-2010, 11:12 AM Yours may be different, but in my experience flushing brake lines on ABS vehicles has been no different than non-ABS vehicles. The critical point is renewing the fluid to the caliper. That is often the lowest point in the system for water to collect and the point with the greatest heat, thermally degrading the fluid. Flush from the master cylinder to the caliper until you see clear, like-new fluid coming out. Be sure no air gets sucked in at the master cylinder and you'll be in good shape.
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