tbaleno
07-28-2006, 10:00 PM
Since I'm planning on another allignment I'm wondering what I should have them set to.
I think camber on the front is between 1 and .6 or something. Not sure on the back. I also don't know about toe and caster.
would closer to 0 be good for camber or do you want more camber?
Anyone know much about allignments and FE?
:driveby1:
lindermant
07-31-2006, 10:50 PM
subscribing as I was wondering the same thing - interested in learning what settings you end up with and any resulting changes in FE
vtec-e
08-05-2007, 07:24 AM
i would have thought dead straight on all wheels. but isnt there a stability issue? it seems wasteful to have tyres scrubbing a little just to corner better! try it out and see what happens. start slowly though!!
ILAveo
08-05-2007, 08:27 AM
Close to dead straight seems like it would be best, but I think the steering will want to wander more (for instance over bumps) as you get closer to straight. I don't know if/how much FE you lose making all the little steering corrections. It would be interesting to see real world data.
PaleMelanesian
08-06-2007, 09:29 AM
I know nothing here, but I would agree with the above.
Caster shouldn't matter.
Camber - you probably want as close to vertical as possible, with a typical load ie. you in the front seat.
Toe-in - probably close to zero, but a slight toe-in for stability. Probably less than 0.5 deg.
brick
08-06-2007, 10:12 AM
The Prius factory spec for toe in is 0 and it does tend to wander around the road a bit. My understanding of negative toe is to keep a slight load on the wheel bearing, thereby minimizing the impact of bearing play.
igor2
08-12-2007, 04:27 PM
I believe Toe should be head straight (Toe is the measurement of whether the wheel point straight or to aside)
camber is what helps with handling and it should have very little bearing on FE. (camber is setting the wheel against a vertical - setting the top of the wheel IN slightly gives your tires better angles to deal with tight corners ..
However with toe, you have to remember that what is measured standstill does not need to be the toe in motion - if the spec'ed toe is not zero it is quite likely because the manufacturer knows the suspension will compensate for the toe when the car us moving.
Also toe adjusts for wheels to be parallel - if a portion of your suspension is damaged, and one wheel is stick in say toe out +.2deg, the other wheel (actually the other three wheels) will be justed to be completely parallel to the one that is stuck - it makes the car behave normal again.
I hope this helps.
Igor