OK, I'm new to a forum like this and I have done some research, but I thought I would put my situation out there for comment on the options I have come up with. Situation: Vehicle has 122,000 km. Purchased new in the US in May 2008. Had a $10k USD accident in 2012 (low speed side-swipe, two doors and rear quarter panel), however the repairs have held up wonderfully and the car is otherwise in really good condition. Legally imported into Canada in June 2012, Honda factory warranties transferred to Honda Canada and letter from Honda Canada obtained. Driver: Versed with the tech of hybrid cars from research, knows how to drive the car efficiently, but is no hypermiler. In the last six months, the battery has gone from 'normal' operation to a point where it only will force charge by the recal method, no 'soft' forced regen at all. The SoC gauge will operate as such: 1. From 8 bars, the gauge will drop, over time, to 4-5 bars. 2. The performance of the battery will decrease noticeably during use, from great assist in acceleration at 8 bars to feeling like it's gas only at 4-5 bars. This is also how I know the next step is coming. 3. At 4 or 5 bars, the SoC will drop to 2 bars and the recal process begins. 4. The recal is short (compared to my memory of the first recal I saw some years ago,) and in about 5 mins of driving, the SoC is up to 4 bars and I get my AS back. 5. The SoC gauge rises instantly from 4 bars to 8 bars and regen braking disappears until I use some assist. 6. AS appears to work as it always had, except just before the recal, when I will get no AS. This is yet another sign that a recal is impending. 7. If the car has been parked for a couple of days, regardless of the SoC level, a recal occurs within 2 to 3 km of driving. From all the research I have done, I am of the belief that my battery pack is very unbalanced. Like many other posts, I have no IMA or CE light. I do have a code scanner, and I have checked for codes (some cars do store pre-codes where a code will set indicating that an event occurred, but not significant enough to turn on the CE light. My old Ford did this when the engine would miss periodically, but not enough to set a misfire DTC,) Warranty status: Main 8 yr/ 80,000 mile warranty on the IMA system ended 11 May this year. I am now in the warranty extension period to 9 yrs / 92,000 miles under the TSB for the battery. Note that as my car is an American market car, my warranty is measured in miles, not km. 12 volt battery status: Replaced in March 2016. I have spoken with Honda Canada, their unwavering stance is no IMA light/DTC code, no warranty replacement of IMA battery no matter what logs, journals, video, etc. I may make/keep. Again, no surprise here based on what I have read. My researched options: 1. Drive the car until IMA/CE light comes on with the appropriate DTC for battery failure or 11 May 2017 and take the 'refurbished' (cough, cough) battery from Honda. 2. Install a grid charger into the car. 3. Replace the battery out of pocket with a re-manufactured (new NimH cells) battery. As far as I know, only Bumblebee and Dorman make such a battery. 4. Take the car to the Hybrid Shop (there is one near me to have the pack reconditioned. 5. Keep driving until the battery completely lets go (assuming no IMA/CE light before the warranty runs out,) and I am forced to do something because at that point the DC-DC converter will stop charging the 12 volt battery (with exceptions, but too much micromanaging a drive for my taste.) Option 2 requires modifying the wiring to install the harness for the charger/discharger. Though I have the skill, I would rather not tamper with the wiring. The Hybrid Shop has told me that Honda packs usually do not pass their tests after re-conditioning and they end up recommending a Bumblebee battery, so Option 4 appears to be off the list. Option 1 has the best price point, but of course the IMA/CEL has to come on before next May. Even if this happens, all my reading tells me that the Honda pack is no better than Option 4 and at best this buys me 2 to 3 years tops. Option 5 is really no option at all as that would be the status quo, and that is the reason I am writing this to begin with. So, that leaves Option 3. Before taking this $2,800 USD plunge (with shipping, but not including GST at the border for a Bumblebee battery I was hoping that others may weigh in with anything I have missed or may want to consider. I would like to leave the car as stock as possible. I bought this car over the Prius because is was the most 'car-like' of the two and my wife is a complete noob about anything automotive. She only knows how to call 1-800-HUSBAND when something seems to go wrong. I think the car has plenty of life left in it to support the cost of replacing the battery pack with a Bumblebee. Thanks in advance.