It's not like any car is easy to work on but the Yaris has got to be up there. Every maintenance component is "right there" in plain sight and easily reachable unless you've got thick arms. All fluid fill points are visible and accessible in the top area of the engine bay. To change the spark plugs you remove the 4 10mm nuts on the cowling and set it aside. Just underneath it you'll see the 4 coil-over-plug boots. Pull them upward and out of the way. Use an extension with your deep well socket to remove the plugs from the wells. It's worth noting that the car isn't due for its first tune up until 100k miles. To change the oil filter come from the front of the engine bay and look down. It's about half way down the front assembly and easily reachable. If you use an oil filter with a wrench-able end it's even easier. To drain the oil undo 2 12mm bolts underneath in order to flex the rear plastic underbelly cover out of the way. The oil filter is just as accessible from here as it is from the top. To drain the radiator remove the forward belly cover (5 12mm bolts in front, 2 in the rear) and use the petcock at the right bottom corner. To change the air filter pop the 2 finger clips off of its housing and pull the upper housing away. Replace the filter, align the top housing's 2 tabs and seat them into the rear catches, then clamp it down with the finger clips. The battery is in plain sight in the engine bay and must be tilted about 20 degrees to the front in order to remove it. If you need more space to work on the battery terminals while it is in place you can remove the lower plastic fitting piece above it by undoing 2 pop clips Serpentine belt replacement is done like it is on most vehicles; by first loosening the alternator on its bracket to provide slack. The wiper motors and washer fluid pumps are accessible by loosening 4 pop clips on the lowest plastics below the windshield and removing those individual fitting pieces. All suspension and steering joints are "maintenance free" and have no grease gun nipples so there's no need to worry about them. The entire front bumper and grill assembly can be removed in about 2 minutes as it is held on by just 10 pop clips and 5 bolts. To change a headlight undo the 6 pop clips along the front top edge of the frontal assembly (this takes less than a minute) and pull it forward to gain access to the "hidden" 3rd screw at the lower-inside of the light's housing. The interior door panels can be removed in less than a minute. The hardest part is using a rag to catch, flex and remove the clip that holds the window crank on. Once you get the hang of it this becomes easy. The vertical dash pieces pull apart and reassemble by hand. The center console has 2 screws and then comes apart by hand. The cabin air filter is accessible by flexing the rear of the open glove box to free it, and then removing a cover plate with finger tabs. The fuse boxes are just like every other modern Toyota I've seen... one under the hood next to the battery, and one in the main cabin on the lower left side of the dash next to the OBDII port. The shift linkage terminator is in plain sight in the front between the bottom of the engine block and the air intake assembly. The clutch linkage terminator is set back a little and is more easily visible by looking/reaching over the air intake tube. There is no secondary clutch cylinder. That's all the maintenance stuff I can think of.