New wheels - PaleMelanesian's 2009 Fit

Discussion in 'My Ride' started by PaleMelanesian, Jan 14, 2013.

  1. Die2self

    Die2self Saving more by using less!

    Pale, I assume when you said you were shooting for 50 LOD, you might have been referring to 50 TPS. After a run into town and back, I replaced my voltage gauge with TPS (as I was not going to be using the lights) and looked at the TPS when I was pulsing at 85 LOD. TPS was about 25-30 out of the 77 Max. So if the TPS is some what linear, that would be about 33%-39%. However, I did notice that that was very light into the throttle compaired to how much pedal play was still left to the floor.

    I tried a brisker 45-50 TPS (which is still on 58%-65% of max throttle). It WAS quicker, felt strange but I could get used to it.:stickshift:. More Fasing on the way back to work and side streets (55 MPH max) into the wind and netted me 55.X MPG. This may have more to do with extra Glide time (more of them). However I will replace LOD with TPS again and shoot for the 45-50 pulsing for awhile. It really couldn't hurt to much at this point with this tank.:eyebrow:
     
  2. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    yes, I meant tps. :eek: Been looking at (and typing) LOD for too many years now.
     
  3. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    Grille block. It's been on for a few weeks. Foam exercise mat, about 1/2 inch thick. Two separate pieces. Cut to size with scissors, tucked in behind the license plate, single zip tie around the grille bars to hold it in. Upper is still open.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    Another upgrade. There's a big open hole that needs help. The platform-mate CRZ has a cover panel here. The gap is about 20" wide by 26 long.
    [​IMG]

    I had a sheet of (abs?) plastic available from a crate label. Cut to size with snips, zip ties to attach.
    [​IMG]

    Crossbar from a shelving unit - 1/2" square u-channel steel with slots all along it. Zip-tied in place using existing holes in the side panels.
    [​IMG]

    Panel installed. :D Much better!
    [​IMG]

    Back end is tucked under the existing panels. It only touches the frame crossbar, engine mount, my added crossbar, and the front cover panel. Nothing hot is within 2 inches of it.
    [​IMG]

    Detail of front attachment point.
    [​IMG]

    The front end is tucked in behind a 1" step up in the splash panel, which is behind the 1.5" front air dam. Minimal risk of catching air. I have 3 zip ties holding it in along the front edge and the rest is just tucked in place. It's solid.

    I think the car is slightly quieter, but it may be placebo. I got a near-record trip this morning, which may or not be related. :D
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014
  5. EdwinTheMagnificent

    EdwinTheMagnificent Legend In His Mind

    That looks pretty clean, Andrew.

    If I did something like that , it would probably get ripped off the first time I tried to go thru deep snow , like where the driveway meets the road.
     
  6. Die2self

    Die2self Saving more by using less!

    I have been looking at that area as well, nicely done. Do you think chloroplast would work as well? Election season is going to be starting soon;).

    Is that an EBH as well :p
     
  7. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    No ebh, trickle charger.

    Yes, Jason, I think coroplast would work fine here. It's about the same stiffness as what I used. I was thinking about you as I did this. I have another panel, but shipping would be ridiculous for a free piece of plastic.

    Edwin, I don't think it would catch. It's higher up than the little lip air dam in front, and the front end is curved up. I wouldn't want to reverse over a snow bank, though. The back end is just tucked in at the two sides. That's fine for forward flow but snow in reverse would probably grab the middle.
     
  8. EdwinTheMagnificent

    EdwinTheMagnificent Legend In His Mind

    Unfortunately , I quite often have to back up in snow !
     
  9. Die2self

    Die2self Saving more by using less!

    how will oil changes be performed? Cut the zip ties slide out, change filter and drain. Replace plug and filter, slide back and zip tie back?

    snow may not be that big of and issue as long as it doesn't hang down lower than items in the back. Or adding a L bracket to the back of the piece to keep it from scooping. Or ALWAYS park face out ;)
     
  10. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    Yes, I'll have to cut and replace the zip ties for oil changes. At my current usage that's yearly so no big deal to me.

    I could have tucked the back end up on top of the frame member instead, and then catching the back end on snow would be no worry at all.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    Well. It seems I need more panel rigidity. At 65 mph and a 10 mph headwind (75 airspeed) the panel started fluttering. It was enough to pull the back end out from it's tucked-in position (2+ inches overlap) and start flapping freely from the attached front end. I was out on the highway so I had to pull over and just snip the zip-ties off. I'm thinking I'll add some kind of longitudinal ribs to reinforce it.
     
  12. Die2self

    Die2self Saving more by using less!

    Andrew, was this the abs block under the engine?
     
  13. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    sorry, yes. the belly pan / under tray.
     
  14. Die2self

    Die2self Saving more by using less!

    Good to know. Another U channel running the other way?

    I was planning on putting in some of the lexan down there that i have some extra. I was going to drill some holes and mount it with some panhead screws to the abs. The lexan should proved some more structure, but I may have to add some U channels like you did.

    Any issues with heat build up or are you still running with the upper grill unblocked? Mine are all blocked right now. But as it warms up I take the lower block off.
     
  15. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    On my highway drive Saturday it was about 80F and my coolant got up to 200F. I stopped and pulled out the lower blocks. My upper was still open. With the belly pan gone, I'm pretty much running stock now.

    I did notice a slight temperature increase with the pan, but only a few degrees.
     
  16. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    I installed a new rear sway bar. Progress brand, 19mm. This is in addition to the stock welded-in rear bar.

    Installation steps with pictures here. Pretty basic. Mine looked exactly like that, even down to the white and pink paint spots on the springs.
    http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...51056-diy-progress-rear-sway-bar-install.html

    I can't say how it affects performance, because:
    - My floor jack puked all its fluid out. I had to do this job with the scissor jack. :( I took the floor jack back to autozone this morning to exchange. +80 lb
    - I filled the gas this morning. +75 lb
    - I also filled the mower's gas can. 5 gallons = +32 lb
    - I went to the feed store and added another 200 lb in the back.

    I'll report later how the bar does.
     
  17. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    I'm finding some improvements but it's not night and day. It corners a bit flatter. The center of rotation is farther back: previously it felt like it was rotating around the shifter, more or less. Now it feels like it's rotating around the handbrake, more central on the car. It does understeer less: on my favorite hairpin, uphill, I could get on the power sooner without sliding wide leaving the corner. That's useful because the following climb is barely doable in 4th gear if I carry enough speed through the turn.
    It's a cheap and easy add-on. Standard price is $165, I got it used for 125. It takes 6 bolts to install from underneath. Took me under an hour to install even with my failed floor jack and fiddling with the scissor instead.
     
  18. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    Got this back on. The back end was just tucked in place and not anchored, and it fluttered at 60+ mph. Had to pop it off on the side of the highway.

    The answer was right there all along. I added another zip tie around the transmission mount right in the middle. It took me more time to jack the car up than to install the pan. Why did I wait months to get it back on???

    Black thing in the middle is the transmission mount.
    [​IMG]
     
  19. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    New Wheels. For real this time. :D

    Konig Helium bronze wheels, 15x6.5, 11 lb each. (oem 16x6, 17.8 lb each)
    Goodyear Fuelmax tires 195-60-15 (oem 185-55-16)
    Also, the tires weigh 2 lb less each, for a total of 8 lb at each corner and 32 lb total reduced.

    I'm expecting an improvement in ride and handling and mileage all at the same time. The trip back to work is a good sign: 62.9 mpg / 1.8 mi.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015
  20. RedylC94

    RedylC94 Well-Known Member

    Taller tires will help a bit on the problem of too-short gearing in that car, but they also raise the center of mass, which won't improve handling (other things being equal, which they never are ...).
     

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