(New member) How much can one optimize with no ScanGauge?

Discussion in 'Start Your Journey Here' started by Right Lane Cruiser, Apr 14, 2007.

  1. GaryG

    GaryG Well-Known Member

    I prefer to keep things stock and use my head for better FE myself. Before I'd go for a tranny change, I think I'd look into higher profile and thinner tires or rear gear ratio changes.

    Found the original box, instructions and all the paperwork for my old SG and packed it all in a bigger box with pading today. I'll get it in the mail monday morning for 3-5 day shipping for you.

    As far as Fuel-cut during engine braking, many cars don't have it yet but the SG will not recognize it. I return my key to the run position after key-off FAS in my FEH, and it works great for maintaining MPG and I have all the stock gauges except the navi. If you have the old SG built after Dec. '05, you might set the Fuel to Hybrid. The old SG I'm sending Sean does have that setting to try. One more thing, if I reset the SG while in EV, I don't get the new information on the SG MPG till I get a restart. At that time the SG adjust the data with the correct data from the time I did the reset. In other words, I get a blank screen at reset in EV, but when the ICE restarts, it may read up to 2,500 mpg depending how long I went in EV before the restart. Of course that all falls fast in a few seconds.

    No matter what, Sean will have a lot of gauges to look at now and he can also check and clear trouble codes in most cars and trucks built after '96. My dad had a trouble light on his '01 Towncar and I found the problem and cleared the Code for him.

    As far as tire presure, I keep mine about 6psi over max sidewall pressure now. I found in a guide for my FEH that Ford recommends pumping the tires up to 44psi if you store the vehicle for 30 days. This is to keep the tires from developing flat spots. Section 1-8 of this llink is where I found it. .https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/2007fleetshowroom/pdfs/2006_hybrid_modifiers_guide.pdf
    My tires have almost stopped wearing with the added pressure and I corner very fast to maintain speed all the time now. I think Ford would have recommended a higher sidewall pressure if it were not for the max 44psi rating from the manufacture of the tire.

    GaryG
     
  2. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    Good work so far! Your extensive history is pretty consistent.

    - I use 10 seconds for my FAS threshhold. It does use more fuel if it's less than that.
    - I have my tires at 50, they're rated at 44.
    - I find I get better results keeping the engine in it's power band than maximum low rpm (minimum?). I shift at 10,20,30,40 most of the time.
    - I believe you'll get results with the block heater all the way through summer. Even if it's 100 degrees out, engine operating temp is up at 190 or so.

    - Scangauge II does not fix the problem report fuel cutoff. It does show Open Loop, so you can use that to see how your car handles it.
    - Mine DOES count miles in FAS. Are you returning your key to the on position after shutting down? It's extremely dangerous not to! Mine loses functions like the turn signal otherwise. I key-off, wait 1-2 seconds for it to actually stop, and then turn the key back to on. Over my 11-mile commute, I might lose .1 mile to FAS, just during those short outages.
     
  3. worthywads

    worthywads Don't Feel Like Satan, I am to AAA

    Yes I am returning the key to the on position after shutdown, along with the reasons you mentioned my odometer wouldn't clock if I didn't. The scangauge will read in the 450+mpg range but then go blank after a moment. I can hit buttons to make it display again but it will quickly go blank again and no miles are recognized. Probably model specific issue.:confused:
     
  4. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    Ah, you need to change your fuel type to Hybrid. That should fix it.
     
  5. brucepick

    brucepick Well-Known Member

    I think you're on the right track uptimizing driving technique.
    I won't try to tell you how to optimize the techniques - my own car is much earlier than yours ('89) and is so very different. But optimizing driving technique is definitely key.

    I think that you can also look at mods that don't re-engineer the air-fuel mixture and engine mechanics.

    I'm thinking of tires (next time yours wear out), grill block, maybe a lower air dam than whatever is installed stock. These are things I'm planning or working on now on my own car. Grill block and air dam etc. will all be home-brew. I'm not spending multi-hundred dollars on prefab "kits".

    My current tires are max pressure 35 psi. The next ones I get will certainly be at least 44 psi, maybe higher than that if I can find them and pay the price.

    I just put in a grill block; it helps conserve engine heat so the ICE doesn't cool off and then need to warm itself up over and over again. However as another poster mentioned, most cars can't have a grill block without a ScanGauge due to the sloppy temp gauges that are often installed OEM. Many of these are programmed to stay near center unless temps deviate significantly from the target temp, then they swing away. If your new-to-you ScanGauge shows engine temp then you can consider a grill block as long as you're able to monitor engine temperature.
     
  6. worthywads

    worthywads Don't Feel Like Satan, I am to AAA

    I'll give that a try, thanks.
     
  7. tbaleno

    tbaleno Well-Known Member

    One thing to consider about mods is that you don't realy want to spend a lot of money to improve fuel economy if you are only doing it to save money. Most mods take a while for payback. Doing mods should only be done if you want to improve the fuel economy for environmental or non monatary gains.
     
  8. brucepick

    brucepick Well-Known Member

    I agree that one shouldn't spend noticeable money on mods if you want financial payback in the near future. What I'm suggesting is those mods that cost approximately lunch money. That's my own standard of affordability.

    True, one can easily spend thousands on custom "aero" mod kits. That's now what I'm thinking of here. Not for my own car either!

    When it's time for new tires, try get ones that will go to 44 or 50+ psi instead of 35.
    Grill blocks can be low cost, just cardboard or plastic sheets. Zip ties will hold them in place.

    That reminds me - air filter. I changed my son's when it had 52,000 miles on it ('05 Elantra)! It was just slightly grayed from accumulated dust but FE went up immediately therefter.

    I recently saw a writeup for a good-looking air dam made from black plastic garden edging and aluminum strips. That one would probably cost a bit more than a sheet-plastic air dam but I think still far less than say, a new tire.
     
  9. worthywads

    worthywads Don't Feel Like Satan, I am to AAA

    That did it.:Banane10:

    Now I'll have to look into the fuel cut-off switch mod, to a much lesser extent all those on-offs are keeping my odometer down. I will find out how significant it is before jumping into that.

    Thanks again.
     
  10. diamondlarry

    diamondlarry Super MPG Man/god :D

    You can check here for my write-up of how I did my injector kill switch. http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4213
     
  11. worthywads

    worthywads Don't Feel Like Satan, I am to AAA


    Thanks, I've been checking that out, I'll address any questions on the mod in that thread. Kinda reluctant to start snippin wires on a year old truck without knowing for sure what I'm doing. I know relays well enough but don't want to assume anything on the toyotas injector controls. I'll be researchin'.
     
  12. Right Lane Cruiser

    Right Lane Cruiser Penguin of Notagascar

    Wow! Lots of great info here!

    GaryG -- I can't wait to get my hands on that device and give it a whirl! The tires suggestion is a good one. I know that a lot can be gained by reducing rolling friction, and I already do as much as I can to avoid static friction altogether. Unfortunately, the rear gear ratio isn't an option as the Elantra is front wheel drive...

    PaleMelanesian -- Thanks! I've been doing my best to keep the numbers up and I'm hoping to push them even higher in the near future with the suggestions I'm hearing.

    10 seconds is a fair length, but I've found the 'Lantra to be a quite good coaster. It holds speed a lot better than any other vehicle I've driven so far -- especially if I'm driving 30 or below. I had a couple of >30s coasts on the way home today but I can't count on that with any regularity. Thanks for the number to shoot for!

    Looks like the consensus is that higher tire pressures are a good thing (I was already half convinced before this :) ) I'm guessing I'll have mine at 50 pretty soon as well.

    The shift ranges are what I was wondering about -- I'm looking forward to having the scangauge installed so I can see the difference but I strongly suspect I'm accelerating too slowly.

    That block heater will stay plugged in all year 'round based on your statement!

    tbaleno -- I agree with you on cost. I'm not willing to put in a whole lot of money because most things would cost way too much to really pay off in gas savings. I know that a tuned exhaust (for example) would probably help but I couldn't possibly justify that based on gas savings.

    brucepick -- grill blocks sound like a worthwhile investment. I think the temperatures are getting high enough now that I ought to wait, but I'll definitely look into that when the temps drop again.

    Man. This place is great.
     

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