New 2012 Accent 5 Door Hatch Eltrolyte Green

Discussion in 'Hyundai' started by joesgot4, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. MaxxMPG

    MaxxMPG Hasta Lavista AAA-Vee Von't Be Bach

    Most modern automatics will keep the engine locked to the drive wheels (when the torque converter clutch is locked) so that fuel cut is available. The fuel injectors can't be switched off unless that direct coupling is established so that the spinning drive wheels can transmit torque (rotational force) backwards through the transaxle and converter to the engine crankshaft. In effect, it uses the car's momentum to spin an engine that is "off" - not burning any fuel. You will notice when the car is in D and you're coasting down, the car will downshift when the tach needle falls below about 1500, and you will also notice that this downshift is more abupt than other downshift/upshift events. And that's because the downshift is minimizing "overlap" as one clutch releases and the other applies, which is needed to ensure that enough torque continues to flow to the engine to keep it running.

    There is no right or wrong here, but there are times when N and D each have their place.

    There are two options for coasting (car is moving, engine running, foot not on the gas pedal):

    Drive - When in drive, and above about 35mph, with the engine fully warm, the fuel injectors will shut down and the car will lose speed faster than in would in neutral. I use D when I need to lose speed, as in approaching my exit, or a cluster of slowing traffic, or for light timing. It also is useful when heading down hills where neutral would cause the car to gain enough speed to exceed the posted limit or reach the point where the gain in momentum is offset by the increased air drag (where it is then being thrown away).

    Neutral - When in neutral, the engine idles and the car will continue to roll due to inertia and - in case of downhills - gravity. Loss of forward speed is due to air drag, tire rolling resistance, and other mechanical resistance (disc brake drag, wheel bearings, transaxle final drive/rear gearset, etc). Engine drag is out of the equation, and so is ATF pump and torque converter energy loss, although fuel consumed by the idling engine is being used to overcome those losses. Depending on forward speed, the car will be getting between 80 and 200mpg when in N. Because of the decreased resistance, I use N when I want to glide for a longer distance with minimal loss of speed. On those slight downgrades (hill and dale), N is perfect for gliding down the hill with no loss of speed. On steeper downgrades, if you shift to N and the car then begins to exceed the posted limit, shift to D and the car will go to fuel cut after a few seconds.

    Which is better? Sometimes both. Depending on traffic volume, I will crest a steep hill at the minimum PSL (usually 40 in interstates) and then NICE-on down the other side until I reach the max PSL. If I'm still heading down the hill when I reach that max, I return to Drive for some fuel cut while holding that speed. When approaching a light that is (or will soon be) red, I will use Drive (and fuel cut) until speed falls to about 25mph. At around 25, when fuel cut drops out, and then shift to N to continue the glide at 25mph, if that is appropriate to arrive just after the light goes green. If more time will be needed before the light goes green (and three-ahead light timing can pay off big time), I will manually downshift, blipping the lever each time the tach gets to 1500. If you downshift while the car is in fuel cut, it will hold onto it down to much lower speeds, and this slows the car very effectively while keeping the injectors offline. Remember when downshifting that your car will slow without any brake lights or other signs to alert the tailgating Chatty Cathy cell phone addict behind you, so it's wise to keep an eye on the rear view mirror to make sure the downshift won't cause trouble for anyone behind you.
     
  2. ksstathead

    ksstathead Moderator

    pi/2 *placard = 1.57 * 32 = 50 psi
     
  3. MaxxMPG

    MaxxMPG Hasta Lavista AAA-Vee Von't Be Bach

    :Banane35:

    Alternately, one can also use the "radical three" multiplier, if they enjoy trigonometry.
    1.732 x 32 = 55.4

    When setting tire pressure, for the new Electrolyte Green Accent or any other car, it's always a good idea to set it and then check for safe handling/performance in all road conditions. At higher pressure, some tires get skittish on wet roads, or will hop sideways in bumpy corners. Because each tire is different, and the results for any given car (suspension and steering geometry, etc) and tire mix can all vary wildly, each combination can display different results - improvement or degradation - in handling and braking.
     
  4. ksstathead

    ksstathead Moderator

    But I cannot recommend e, the base of the natural log scale. 2.718281828 * 32 = 87 psi

    If you use e, take it easy and wear a mouthpiece.
     
  5. xcel

    xcel PZEV, there's nothing like it :) Staff Member

    Hi Ksstathead:

    Oh how it would roll though :D :D :D

    Wayne
     
  6. ksstathead

    ksstathead Moderator

    Tell me about it! I run 80 in my mountain bike slicks and 100 to 145 in my road bike 'cause I need all the glide I can get on a long ride.
     
  7. Right Lane Cruiser

    Right Lane Cruiser Penguin of Notagascar

    Some of us know exactly how well that PSI rolls. ;)
     
  8. herm

    herm Well-Known Member

    Thats a great way to describe it.. it would be cool if all the valves could open up to reduce engine drag while the fuel injectors were shut off.. massive FE savings there.
     
  9. MaxxMPG

    MaxxMPG Hasta Lavista AAA-Vee Von't Be Bach

    Yes, and the vehicles are easy to spot because they bear this placard... :D
    [​IMG]
     
  10. 2RR2NV

    2RR2NV Ultimate Newbie

    so basically, i'm toast since i don't have a gauge and can't judge when fuel cut-off happens. there are times when i'm coasting Downhill, that inbetween 2 hills, i'll be over the PSL for just a few seconds before i have to put it back into D to get back up the next hill.... is it even worth it to pop it into D (to keep at/below PSL) for that short time (which is now even shorter because of all the drag and will definitely be at a much slower speed than coasting upon hitting the next hill), or just say "F" it and continue in N.... i have some nice rollercoaster hills (4 hills in a row) OTW to work and i can coast for probably just over a mile (starting at 60mph and finishing at 55mph with the low point being 35-40mph at the top of 1 of the hills - high point being a just above PSL for a couple seconds)

    it would be soooo nice for someone to come out and show me the best way to handle some of these roads.
     
  11. MaxxMPG

    MaxxMPG Hasta Lavista AAA-Vee Von't Be Bach

    You have to be the one to judge if you need to go back to D to pulse to the top of the next hill. If there is nobody behind you, or it's a multilane road and traffic is light (so others can pass to the left), and the next hill isn't as steep as the one you're descending, you can definitely go for "the double bump" and glide up the next hill to catch the down side afterward. If the next hill is too steep, you're better off returning to D at a higher speed and using gentler pressure on the pedal to allow speed to fall more slowly while the car holds 6th gear (and higher engine load).

    If you're cresting these hills at 35-40 and the PSL is 60, the best strategy might be to shift to N as the car starts the descent. And as you start the next climb, if the car won't make it to the top at 35-40mph, return to D and add just enough pedal to allow the car to slowly lose speed, with the goal of being in the low 40mph range as you reach the next hilltop (since it will drop out of 6th if you go much slower) and then back off the pedal and shift to N to crest and descend again.

    If you're heading for another climb as you descend a hill, there is no reason to return to Drive to keep the car precisely at the PSL if it will only go a couple of mph over, unless there's a speed trap there. Since other cars are driving 10+ over PSL anyway, they certainly won't mind you picking up a little extra speed. If the car will exceed 65mph, even if the PSL is 65 or higher, remember that the energy you gain coasting downhill is now being lost to increased air drag. The Elantra loves to lumber along at 50-55mph (and the Accent is likely the same), and it will still return good mpg up to about 65. Go well beyond 65, though, and fuel economy begins its death plummet.

    Not being SG-ii equipped is a definite handicap, but following the general rules of energy conservation will get you some pretty respectable mpg numbers.
     
  12. 2RR2NV

    2RR2NV Ultimate Newbie

    alrighty. think i got it. yeah, it's just a single lane type. if i have no traffic, i'll coast the whole way. if i do have traffic, i try to keep it around 55 (PSL) and let it max coast whenever i can. a couple of the hills are way steep. if i don't put it in neutral(@55) way before i crest the hill (which probably is about 45mph), i'll easily hit 66-68, which... at that moment, i hit a very small hill (well more like a bump in the road.. lol) it'll drop me down to 57-59. then a slight drop (w/ speed back up to 60-61) and then coast flat down to 55.

    thanks for the info. i'm hoping for a gauge of some type for X-mas. Come on Santa!!!


    oh... sorry for the threadjack... please continue on with regular posting. I'm out.
     
  13. joesgot4

    joesgot4 Well-Known Member

    no, continue i'm loving it!
     
  14. Nevyn

    Nevyn Well-Known Member

    I have to say, it looks better than the Fiesta. I like the back end a lot better.
     
  15. joesgot4

    joesgot4 Well-Known Member

    well, i got back home for my second fuel mileage run! 80 degrees and raining with a crosswind blowing about 10--15mph! i went 151 miles on 2.81 gallons of gas! i drove 50 mph all but about 10 miles when the interstate was only 2 lane! i drove 55mph for this stretch. i used the cruise control the whole trip on flat rodes! drum roll please!
    53.736mpgs my new personal record!
     
  16. MaxxMPG

    MaxxMPG Hasta Lavista AAA-Vee Von't Be Bach

    It's a beautiful thing, isn't it? Set the cruise on a new car and you get 53.7mpg.

    Wait til it gets a few thousand miles on it and loosens up a little. Then practice precise throttle control and "lose the cruise" in favor of DWL, and I'd bet there's a "60 something" in your future.

    These new 2011/2012 Hyundai models make it so easy to beat the livin' heck out of the EPA. I find myself just laughing when I am heading down the highway at/near the PSL and it's reading 60-something on the iFCD. It's not a "freebie", as is evidenced by some complainers on other forums, but there are few cars that give you 45-50mpg by applying only the basics.
     
  17. joesgot4

    joesgot4 Well-Known Member

    my short term goal is 60mpgs by the end of september!
     
  18. schuylkill

    schuylkill Well-Known Member

    So this morning I used CC for the first time with my 2012 elantra over my 80 mile commute to work (set at 55 mph), only getting out of it to FAS on three long downhill stretches on I78 and for the 25 miles or so of suburbia driving and I averaged 49.5 mpg as I backed into the parking space. Not too shabby and much less work. It shows me however that I'm not doing a very good job when trying to get the best possible mpg, averaging about 50.5 to 51.5 mpg on the same commute.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2011
  19. joesgot4

    joesgot4 Well-Known Member

    when i did my last fuel mileage run and got 53.7mpg my fcd read 58.3mpg's thats almost 5mpgs off! i just wonder how it could be that far off? the first fuel mileage run i did it was only .9mpg's off!
     
  20. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    Keep a running total. The truth is likely somewhere in between those two.
     

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