Discussion in 'Start Your Journey Here' started by rsatmans, Mar 7, 2011.
Thanks for the help.
Hi rsatmans, Welcome to CleanMPG!
You seem to have a grasp on some of the basics, and in my opinion, 25.9 MPG out of a 5.0 V8 is nothing to be ashamed of! I'll admit, I don't have much experience with MB, but I would say you're doing all the right things. I do suggest reading through our CleanMPG Primer, which helps you get a grasp of the techniques that can be used and will help you get oriented with the site. The link is in my signature below.
There may be some more you can squeak out of it. There is a technique called Pulse and Glide that is detailed in Beating the EPA - The Why's and How to Hypermile. I'll think about it and do some more research, and will see if anyone else can chime in.
A Scangauge would be useful in giving you back instantaneous MPG and other values that will help get that trip average up. That would be something to consider.
Feel free to keep asking questions, and we'll do our best to answer them!
The above post about covers it. Pulse and glide is an advanced technique. With that said, it might be difficult to practice at first, however there are plenty of mileage gains. Also, for actual mileage figures, may I suggest calculating based on fill ups? Car computer may be off. Good luck and welcome!
I've noticed that used German luxury cars-10- 20 years old) are pretty cheap used.
BMWs and MB with 15 years and 150,000 miles are in the under $5000 range here in NOLA.
For $5000 you get a genuine luxury car that is generally very safe, pretty fast accelerating, pretty quiet, pretty comfortable.
On the downside they are EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE to get repaired- you must have bought a good one and DIY on some repairs!
This-repair cost- is probably why they sell for so little for such great cars.I would love to own one.
25.9 mpg- like others said- you are doing great.
On changes, have you added a grille block? If you're somewhere cold it helps warm-up but for you the advantage is better aerodynamics by stopping some of the airflow into the engine bay.
Just a comment on the financial aspect just in case you haven't fully crunched the numbers already (apologies if you have). If you could up to 37mpg you'd save 302 gallons per year in gas. (37mpg should be easy in a compact given your drive).
That's a lot of possible savings available if you could finance a used vehicle.
If you're not using neutral, you're not really gliding. You'll probably lose mpg by "gliding" in gear.
I don't have a kill switch. I use the key, over and over and over again. Off for a second, then back on to reboot all the electronics.
P&G may not help you much / at all with an automatic. You don't have enough control over the gears. It wants to shift the rpm higher when you want it to stay low.
You really should get a Scangauge.
Edmunds lists your car "from 12,279" TMV for what that's worth, so you have considerable value there for a trade. You are killing the 15/21 EPA rating with that V8, so if you traded to a 40 mpg highway Elantra with a 6MT, you could figure to average 50 mpg perhaps. A new one with air conditioning etc is 16,800. Consider a trade when you can for this or a more efficient used car.
We are about improving mpg of what you have, and there is always room for improvement. At the same time, it is fair to say you have picked the low-hanging fruit in improving mpg of the clk.
Just to clarify Pale's point: although P&G might not help, the G in N will. Even if you're not doing P&G, an N-glide can be done going down hills and when you need to drop speed, such as when you're executing your last two turns into your workplace parking lot . Once you've used N-glides, coasting in gear feels like the drag it is.
Automatics usually have no problem with N-gliding. You'll want to try it in advance just to get some idea about how smoothly the engine goes back into gear. It should be a smooth process so if it feels rough it's probably a signal that you should avoid it. You could also do some research to see if you can find out if your car has any specific issues with it. There's also a power lag when you put the car back into gear so get a feel for it so you know how early to shift back into gear when there's a hill ahead or somebody coming up behind.
Ramen. The available information will allow you more reliably to hit and maintain sweet spots.
I looked up your car and it seems like you have an "automated manual" option for shifting. If you could use this to keep in a higher gear you should gain some MPGs when at a constant speed.
I believe the key advantage of the ScanGauge is the XGauges which give the ability to program additional gauges. Their value depends on whether you need them to get key information for your car.
There's a ScanGauge forum and the thread http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34321 has a discussion on the UltraGauge.
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