Hey, all! I've been surfing the site for several months, working on my technique, and decided to join so I could take it to the next level. I'm basically a cyclist on sabbatical with some exposure to automotive engineering (My dad recently retired from GM, and I spent a summer in Corvette Engineering before graduating from MIT in `92), so I'm aware of a lot of the physics and mechanics of what's going on even though I haven't tinkered with engines much. Between commuting and ultramarathon riding, I've put in about 100,000 miles on the bike. I bought a car in July to alleviate some chronic health issues; I expect to be back on the bike within a year or so, but I expect to keep the car. My car is a `99 Chevy Prizm, a Corolla clone for less money. I bought it for its low overall cost (purchase, maintenance, gas cost), high reliability and good safety record. I figured the majority of my driving would be just back and forth to work, so a small vehicle made sense despite the allure of a wagon for ride support during cycling events (wagon selection in my price range was limited anyway; there were a lot fewer models a few years ago than there are now). I expected that some of my driving would be for solo checks of bike routes, so I bought an automatic (4-sp, locking TC) so I could drive while taking notes. Unfortunately, the auto will hurt optimizing FE with my particular commute; even though the auto has a taller final ratio than the manual, at the lower speeds I'm driving the TCC is unlocked most of the time. I didn't know I'd be interested in hypermiling when I bought the car; if I had, I probably would've given stronger consideration to a Metro with a stick. So far, I haven't made many modifications. I've blocked most to all of the intake depending on temperatures, unplugged the AC clutch (it was running all the time) changed to 3 quarts 5-30/1 quart 5-20, all synthetic, installed a SG II and am gradually raising the tire pressures. I'd been running 40/38 F/R based on a 35 PSI max sidewall, but I found last night that only one tire (new tires were installed by the dealer) was rated for 35 PSI max; the other three are rated for 44. They're all the same model (Radial LL650 M+S) but different makes (35 is Segura and 44s are Pro Meter). As of this morning, I'm using 44 in all and will probably bring it up to 50 in the Pro Meters tomorrow. Fortunately, the 35 PSI tire is already on the rear where it belongs. The car appears to have its best cruising FE in the 40-45 MPH range with constant throttle after locking up the TCC in fourth gear (>43-44 MPH), as you'd expect. Next best is around 30 MPH in fourth gear, TCC unlocked. Many of the speed limits are 35, in which case I'll accelerate to 44 on a downhill and gradually drift down to 40 without unlocking the TCC. The TCC unlocks if I coast, so the TPS on the Scangauge helps a lot when trying to find out how much further I can let off the gas without unlocking. I've already modified my former commute and found a route that is shorter, faster and has fewer stops (all a plus). My current commute is 16 miles of fairly shallow rolling hills, with speed limits ranging from 20 to 55 and an average speed around 30-35. The route to work has a stop, four yields and two lights; the route home has three lights and six yields. The five miles at the work end are expressway. On nights that I've worked late, I've occasionally been able to DWB from a stoplight a couple of blocks from work until I stop to back into my driveway. Most afternoons, there's relatively heavy stop-and-go going home, and traffic backs up at the lights. I was driving much more efficiently when I was working 12-hour days in October, but I wasn't able to do much else. FASing on hills doesn't appear to make much difference because I have an automatic (no bump starting = less efficient start) and most of the hills are short enough that I can't coast very long. FASing to red/stale green lights is a no-brainer, especially where light cycle lengths are known to be long. I coast in neutral where I'd come out ahead doing it, and leave it neutral at short lights. I'm pretty used to using neutral at stops, since it's a good practice for driving on ice anyway. It's tough to come out ahead P&Ging with the automatic, since I can't have a mostly-open throttle and low RPMs at the same time to reduce pumping losses, and a FAS glide doesn't last long enough to make the startup hit worthwhile. DWL seems to help but is hard to do on rolling hills at low speeds without ticking off other motorists because the speed variation is so huge. I'm guessing that the best compromise may be to maintain speed for the bottom part of the hill, then let it run out near the top. I do my best to delay acceleration until the downhill parts of a staircase descent, or the flat parts of a staircase ascent, figuring that this minimizes the fluid shear (and energy loss) in the torque converter at lower speeds. I've generally been trying to use more throttle on downhills than on uphills at low speeds where the TCC is unlocked, a constant 40 MPH with the TCC locked when the speed limit is 35, and constant throttle at higher speeds. I'm able to keep in the 50-55 MPH range on the expressway without getting raged by others. I practice face-out/PP parking and smart braking where possible, draft trucks on the expressway when there's a good opportunity, and do my best to keep my momentum on turns when the roads are dry. I've cleaned out the garage and am keeping the car inside to minimize the FE hit from warming up. I haven't yet figured out the optimum way to accelerate. My best guess has been a brisk acceleration to 30, let off to shift to 4th, more gradual acceleration to 45 to keep it in 4th, let off to lock the TCC, then a bit harder if more speed is needed. I should probably do some experiments at some point to find the optimum rate. It's only a 25 minute commute in the morning, so I probably won't be able to wring out huge mileages. OTOH, I'm not using much gas, either -- less than a gallon per day. I've been able to hold about 34-35 MPG tanks so far despite the decreases in temperature; EPA mixed is 31 and most users get around 30. I'd like to keep it around 35 MPG the rest of the winter, after which it should rise naturally during the summer. Any thoughts?