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Discussion in 'Start Your Journey Here' started by tbaleno, Nov 2, 2006.

  1. SLPilot

    SLPilot Member

    Hi everyone,
    I'm a newbie also. I'm driving a 2000 Saturn SL1 auto in my daily commute. 50% city, 50% highway or country roads. (60-80kph limits.) So far I have inflated my tires to nearly max sidewall and am practising some of the basic techniques. (Driving with load, coasting, driving without brakes, turning off ignition at long lights.)

    I thought that I'd do better. So far I've managed about 108% of EPA, or 6.7l/100km (35mpg.) My car is flat towable, so apparently I can coast along in neutral with or without the engine on. There are a few spots on my commute that I can do this and coast for 30-60 seconds, but I don't want to do it often for fear of harming the transmission. I don't know if a scan gauge is in the budget. I have chosen the least hilly route to drive (which also happens to be quite direct.)

    What else can I do? Any suggestions?

  2. Destroyer14094

    Destroyer14094 New Member

    I have a 93' Buick Park ave... I have no idea what half of the technical terms mean, and I would like better than 20-25mpg(21 avg)-

    -I do mostly rural driving(speeds-45-55mph)
    -I was wondering how to know what rpm to accelerate at since I have read that accelerating too slow could actually worsen mileage
    -I usually accelerate at around 2000 rpm
    -I use cruise control constantly
    -tire pressure is checked once a week to be at max sidewall
    -I do routine maintenance once a week(check fluids/hoses/use air intake injector/carb cleaner,etc.)

    -I am confused with what else I should do to save gas
  3. MaxxMPG

    MaxxMPG Hasta Lavista AAA-Vee Von't Be Bach

    Welcome to CleanMPG! Two observations on the '93 Park Ave...
    1 - Since it's 16 years old, be sure the oxygen sensor isn't too old. Newer (1996+) cars are OBD-II compliant and are more precise in determining when the sensor is on the way out. On older cars, it won't throw the check engine light on until the the sensor has essentially failed and set the computer to open loop.
    2 - The car is rather heavy, so the trick is to keep it rolling (no tapping the brakes to slow down only to accelerate again), and keep engine speed as low as possible. For any heavy car or truck, the two big contributors to best fuel economy are DWB and DWL - and for their definitions, you can click on the hyperlink and read more about them. The first is "Driving without brakes", or "Driving with buffer" - Leave lots of room ahead and coast into slower-moving traffic or toward red lights. The second is "Driving With constant engine Load" - or keeping your foot steady on the accelerator and letting the car lose speed going up hill and gain it back going downhill.

    You are wise to accelerate in a way that lets the transmission upshift at around 2000rpm. The "slow acceleration wastes gas" dates back to the time when the upshift points were determined by vacuum modulators, tailshaft governors and throttle cables. Your '93 model - a transition year - may be either an older 4T65 transaxle with the throttle cable, or the 4T65E electronically controlled transaxle. If you have the older model (with the throttle kickdown cable running to the transaxle from the throttle linkage), check the service manual for details on how to properly adjust the cable to be sure the transmission isn't hanging in the lower gears too long. The 3.8 V6 is a "torque motor", generating most of its power at low rpm, so there is nothing gained by winding it up much over 2500rpm.

    If your commute involves any long red lights or other stops longer than 15 seconds or so, shift to N and shut the car off if the engine is fully warmed. When you're ready to go again, restart the car and move the lever back to D. The car will start in N and you can easily bump the lever back to D and get going before the guy behind you gets impatient. shows your '93 Park Ave was rated 19/27, 22 combined (17/25, 20 combined under the newer 2008 standard), so 20-25 means you're at least in the range noted by the EPA. Remember that most people never reach that goal. Your car doesn't support the Scan Gage, but it may have either an average or instant MPG readout in the trip computer. If it does, you can use it to adjust your driving style for peak fuel economy.

    Be sure to read the article "Beating the EPA..." - There's a link to it on the home page. Each time you read it, you learn something new and useful.
  4. Showbizk

    Showbizk Well-Known Member

    Maxx! A quick question: Why not shut it off regardless of engine temp? After all, a cold engine idling uses more fuel than a warm one. At least when you're moving, even cold, you're getting some MPG. Personally, if I'm sitting for more than 6-8 seconds, I'm shuttin' 'er down, cold, or warm (unless defrosting is required.)!
  5. Right Lane Cruiser

    Right Lane Cruiser Penguin of Notagascar

    Because colder engines use more fuel to start as well as using more fuel to idle. This moves the "break even point" to greater time.
  6. park_03

    park_03 New Member

    I drive a 97 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a 4.3 vortec V6. I drive 63 kilometers to work one way. I drive different routes to work for car pool reasons. How can I get the best milage outta my truck.
  7. Showbizk

    Showbizk Well-Known Member

    A-ha! OK! Thanks, Cruiser.
  8. drimportracing

    drimportracing Pizza driver: 61,000+ deliveries

    I have a how to project to post

    This project is how to insulate your hood to retain engine temperatures within the engine bay. I have 9 pictures (.jpg) of varying sizes of 305kb to 650kb for a total of 3.9mbs to include in this "how to". I don't have attachment privileges and would like to know if this is possible or what is normally done? - Dale
  9. drimportracing

    drimportracing Pizza driver: 61,000+ deliveries


    How do I attach pictures?????
  10. Showbizk

    Showbizk Well-Known Member

    Site Help

    My bad!!! Of course I found this thread immediately after I posted the following as a new thread! Sorry...

    I occasionally miss several days worth of visits, thus get behind on reading posts, and especially replies to my posts. I know can find one of my old posts, click my username, and see the "Show all posts by ____" and then find the ones in which I'm interested, but is there a more direct way to go to the "see all my posts" page? Thanks!
  11. hummingbird

    hummingbird Member


    Didn't know any help is to be requested here. Posted separately regarding FAS hurting batteries...I summarize again. Also a bunch of newbie queries below. Please help.

    1. I use accelerate to 60 kmph / cut ICE + switch to neutral (manual 5 speed transmission). The duty cycle of ICE ON : OFF is 3:7 -> Is this bad enough to starve battery of charge and force me to jumpstart the car at a point eventually? I have headlights as well as a music system (frugal non-fancy CD changer) ON while coasting (headlights only during night time (occasional), music constantly ON:p)

    2. Does constant (once every km travelled) bump start hurt the clutch? how badly? Does the fuel savings overcome the replacement cost?

    3. I own a Honda City EXi (Indian, 2004 model) Is this vehicle OBD-II compliant? I wanted to buy a scangauge, but wanted beforehand to make sure that the car supports it. Called the local service engineer, he was of no help. How do I go about finding it out?

    Thanks for your answers and merry christmas to you all!
  12. Right Lane Cruiser

    Right Lane Cruiser Penguin of Notagascar


    You do need to careful about 12V status and you should have something to monitor it so that you can NICE-ON to charge when necessary. I don't know if your car is OBD-II compliant (though I suspect it is) -- you could contact Linear Logic directly for info on this. If you can't get use a ScanGauge you should be able to purchase a cigarette lighter adapter with a 12V meter on it. Likewise, you can probably use the SuperMID or the MPGuino (with a bit of wiring).

    As for bump starting, if you do it properly there is less wear on the clutch surface than a start from complete standstill.
  13. DeLorean_4

    DeLorean_4 EV Volvo Enthusiast

    Hi everyone,

    I was curious to know how I can set up my own mileage log and edit it. To date I've submitted my vehicle but I can't find the page that allows me to enter fuel consumption information.
  14. Damionk

    Damionk DWL Lover

    Click Mileage logs on the left then you should see a link that says add or edit tanks next to your car.
  15. DeLorean_4

    DeLorean_4 EV Volvo Enthusiast

    Where exactly is this edit tanks button? All I see is "Add a Vehicle" and when I try searching for my Volvo 940, it doesn't show up anywhere.
  16. Damionk

    Damionk DWL Lover

    I looked through the mileage logs and I couldn't find your car either. Did you hit send when you entered your car? If you did that you may want to contact Sean (Right Lane Cruiser), he deals with the logs and such.
  17. DeLorean_4

    DeLorean_4 EV Volvo Enthusiast

    Yes, I clicked "send" when submitting my car. I'll give it a second shot and if it doesn't work I'll contact the administrator.
  18. Right Lane Cruiser

    Right Lane Cruiser Penguin of Notagascar

    There was a bug a couple of days ago which has since been corrected. Please enter your vehicle again.
  19. TahoeMan

    TahoeMan Life in the tall lane

    Hey, how is status calculated for the mileage logs? I was once "Skilled" with my Tahoe, and now I am blank on both that and my Malibu. When browsing the others in the comprehensive listing the assignment of status seems somewhat arbitrary looking @ %EPA and miles etc. What gives?


  20. PaleMelanesian

    PaleMelanesian Beat the System Staff Member

    over EPA is Skilled
    25% over is Expert
    50% over is Elite

    On the mileage logs page, you have to log 5000 miles to earn a label.

    For 2008+ vehicles, to compensate for the lower epa ratings, the percentages required to reach a status are higher. I think it's an extra 20% or so.

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