3000 mile oil change myth?

Discussion in 'General' started by PTDixieGal, Aug 21, 2008.

  1. lightfoot

    lightfoot Reformed speeder

  2. msirach

    msirach Well-Known Member

    In a sump system as in auto engines, they are designed to drain to a low point (drain plug). If you suction the oil out of the dipstick tube, the solids settled out near the drain won't be removed. (if there are solids)

    I use Amsoil extended interval filters and Amsoil 0-20w oil for a change at 25,000 miles or 1 year. Before the Ea filter came out, I changed the filter at 15,000 and oil and filter at 30,000. Their product is designed for this service. I drive about 35,000 miles yearly so you can see the cost benefit even with the higher price of the Amsoil product.

    At work, oil in pulverizing mills is targeted for at least 9 years of use. This is a an extreme service piece of equipment that runs 24/7. We have a monthly analysis and the filter differential is monitored. The filter is 12 micron absolute and the Klüber synthetic is used.
  3. MT bucket

    MT bucket I want my MPG!

    What if i am ice off coasting 75% of the time and rarely above 2500 rpm the other 25%?
  4. kryten428

    kryten428 Well-Known Member


    My Peterbilt dealer had an oil analysis machine on site. They have a plunger cup type of thing that sucks oil out of the dipstick tube. They only need an ounce or two. Cost was around $20 last time I had it done. Only takes about 1/2 an hour which includes the time to get the sample. You can check the truck dealers around your area, I'm sure at least one of them would have a machine. They may look at you funny when you show up, but $20 is $20.;)

  5. lightfoot

    lightfoot Reformed speeder

    There's a big truck stop on my commute and a truck dealer is right next door to it, so I'll check there.

    Maybe I'll try dipstick analysis to see how long I can stretch Mobil 1 0-20 and then do an analysis of the oil oil at the change (getting a representative sample might be tough if stuff settles out).

    As far as sludge goes, STM what's circulating and what is not are two different stories. Sludge might give a history of what happened to the engine? What's circulating may tell how the oil is doing and a bit about what's up with the engine?
  6. pcs0snq

    pcs0snq Well-Known Member

    If you use Blackstone Labs, they will send you the sample kit(s) for free.

    The best way to collect the sample is to have the bottle ready and when on the lift, drop the plug and catch some in the bottle after it has run a little. Also, it's good to grab it when it's been run some so it all mixed up.

    Good luck
  7. ALS

    ALS Super Moderator Staff Member

    Conventional oils today are so much better than even ten years ago. I know with my turbo four daily driver that is run under 3 miles each way on residential streets and rarely sees highway my M1 oil is shot by 5K miles. Yet my highway car gets a OCI once a year since it sees less than 2% city driving. Follow the manual if it says 5K miles under severe service change it every 5K miles. Just make sure you use a good quality conventional oil.
  8. Shan

    Shan SGII Equiped FIT Driver....finally!

    I can't wait to seem some results from Paul and then from lightfoot on the 0w-20(that is what I am running now)
  9. Ford Man

    Ford Man Well-Known Member

    I usually re-pack the wheel bearings when I change my rear brakes which is usually somewhere around every 100,000 miles. I had a rear wheel bearing go out on my '88 Escort when it had somewhere between 300,000-400,000 miles. The other rear bearings are still the original with 479,000+ miles on them. I have had to replace the front wheel bearings a few times in that length of time, but they are sealed bearings and I can't re-pack them.

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